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10b u-joint size (yeah I searched)

johnnychimpo

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I swapped a 12b into my '90 1/2t sub w/TH700R4. It previously had the factory 10b. The u-joint on the dshaft is larger than the 12b yoke will take. Is this a 1330? the Sub is all stock 'cept for 2" susp lift. The GRVW is 7000lbs if it matters. tHe 12b is out of a '73 4spd truck .
 
Could be a 3r series joint. 1310 style has clips on the outside, 3r is on the inside.
 
4X4HIGH said:
90 sub would be a 1330 factory
Nope a 10 bolt is s44/3r . I have been there and tried that , 1330 won't fit a 10 bolt yoke .

He needs a s44 to 1310 if hes not lucky , and since its a 12 bolt from a 4 speed he may get lucky and need a s44 to 1350 joint .
 
He is asking what size U-joint the driveshaft takes because it is larger than his 12 bolt yoke will accept. He is going to need a bastard joint to make it work but the driveshaft end is a 1330 and IIRC the 12 bolt yoke is a 1310.
 
No 1330 joints are used in these trucks. Its an S44. I've got the Neapco catalog here in front of me. I was confused at first too, they are close in size. :thumb:

He needs a S44 (what is on his driveshaft) to a 1310 (what the 12bolt yoke is) joint.

Neapco PN- 3-3130

John
 
I'm temporarily putting in a 14b sf and plan on swapping my 10b yoke to it. just till I finish my 14bff, anyone know what ft/lbs i'll need to set this yoke nut to?
 
83ZZ502_Jimmy said:
No 1330 joints are used in these trucks. Its an S44. I've got the Neapco catalog here in front of me. I was confused at first too, they are close in size. :thumb:

He needs a S44 (what is on his driveshaft) to a 1310 (what the 12bolt yoke is) joint.

Neapco PN- 3-3130

John

Are you positive about no 1330 U-joints? My factory stock 89 blazer used 1330 joints factory in the rear.
 
Yes,

See the attached pics that shows the neapco catalog.

It shows the PN's for the years in question, then the conversion chart. I highlighted the PN I mentioned above. It shows it to be an S44.

I have used S44 in all my 81-91 stuff. 1330 has never fit.

John

page1.jpg

page2.jpg
 
To avoid having to re-set the pinion bearing preload you need to do the following:

Scribe a line on the pinion shaft and pinion nut before you remove the old yoke.

After installing the new yoke tighten the pinion nut until it bottoms out on the yoke, then continue to torque it until the scribe marks line up again.

Check for any end-play in the pinion, if there is any you should replace the crush sleeve and re-set the pinion bearing preload however; I have done the following on numerous ocassions with good success:

Continue to tighten the pinion nut a little at a time and check end play as you go, once you have no end play call it good. You will need to periodically check the end-play if you do it this way because the bearing preload will likely not be high enough.



johnnychimpo said:
I'm temporarily putting in a 14b sf and plan on swapping my 10b yoke to it. just till I finish my 14bff, anyone know what ft/lbs i'll need to set this yoke nut to?
 
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