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14 Bolt hub re-installation........New Question, same topic!!

45acpJr

45acpJr

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I've read many articles regarding 14 bolts and it seems there are a few different configurations of spindle nuts and thrust washer, etc.... When I disassembled mine I first removed the snap ring, then the key (small metal block) then the spindle nut. Does anyone have the same set-up? Do I have all the correct pices?

picture.php
 
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45acpJr said:
I've read many articles regarding 14 bolts and it seems there are a few different configurations of spindle nuts and thrust washer, etc.... When I disassembled mine I first removed the snap ring, then the key (small metal block) then the spindle nut. Does anyone have the same set-up? Do I have all the correct pices?
Click to expand...

Mine is that same set-up and those are all the pieces. :thumb:
 
45acpJr said:
I've read many articles regarding 14 bolts and it seems there are a few different configurations of spindle nuts and thrust washer, etc.... When I disassembled mine I first removed the snap ring, then the key (small metal block) then the spindle nut. Does anyone have the same set-up? Do I have all the correct pices?

picture.php
Click to expand...
Your good to go! Those are all the pieces for that style hub!
 
Thanks I just wanted to make sure, and for re installation it goes spindle nut, key, slip ring. I took it apart a month ago and now I can't remember:doah:
 
45acpJr said:
Thanks I just wanted to make sure, and for re installation it goes spindle nut, key, slip ring. I took it apart a month ago and now I can't remember:doah:
Click to expand...

Yes, be sure to adjust the bearing preload properly first though.
 
Another question, same topic.......

Two questions how easily should the hub assemble slide back on and how far back should it sit?
 
Sometimes they will not slide right on cause the inner bearing will sit cock-eyed in the hub. You can wiggle it or just get western with it & lightly tap it with a mallet.

The spindle will be mighty close to the axle flange when the hub is seated all the way. If you still have drums the drum will almost contact the backing plate. If you swapped to disc you should be able to see if there is any shiny hub surface left behind the hub seal.
 
Some manuals recommend torque to 50 ft lbs...
Then back off the nut,and just tighten to zero preload....
 
Everything i've read says to first torque the inner nut to 50 ft/lbs while rotating hub then back off until loose, now tighten to 35 ft/lbs and either install lock washer with tang and second nut or keyway and snap-ring.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Everything i've read says to first torque the inner nut to 50 ft/lbs while rotating hub then back off until loose, now tighten to 35 ft/lbs and either install lock washer with tang and second nut or keyway and snap-ring.
Click to expand...

I think that too sounds too much.
For the front dana 60, my factory service manual for my dodge says this:
1. First tighten it to 50ft-lbs to seat it.
2. Release it
3. Tighten it to 40ft-lbs
4. Then back it off 135-150 degrees!

This is for a dana 60 though, so it can probable vary some for a 14BFF, but it shouldn't be too much difference:dunno:.

Btw it's ft-lbs or ft.lbs not ft/lbs.
 
Fred_M1010 said:
I think that too sounds too much.
For the front dana 60, my factory service manual for my dodge says this:
1. First tighten it to 50ft-lbs to seat it.
2. Release it
3. Tighten it to 40ft-lbs
4. Then back it off 135-150 degrees!

This is for a dana 60 though, so it can probable vary some for a 14BFF, but it shouldn't be too much difference:dunno:.

Btw it's ft-lbs or ft.lbs not ft/lbs.
Click to expand...

Why would anyone use the specs from one axle on different axle, ever? I wouldn't think close is good enough in this instance.

But, believe it or not, I think they are very close.
 
Thanks Tim that was the advice that I went with, I backed it off then spun it on til it made contact and then turned it a little more to align the keyhole
 
45acpJr said:
Thanks Tim that was the advice that I went with, I backed it off then spun it on til it made contact and then turned it a little more to align the keyhole
Click to expand...

OK. Well, I highlighted the dana and not the sagnaw but they are the same.

After you get it to 50 while spinning the hub, it's back off and then hand snugged and then torqued to 9-12 foot pounds(41-54 Nw) and then back off the 135 to 150 degrees.
 
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