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14B disk swap/I'm P!ssed

broc944

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I installed my 14b about 750 miles ago totally rebuilt along with Disc brakes. Last night on the way back from a ride I heard what sounded like a rock rubbing on the disc. What I heard was the wear indicator of the pads, the pads are totally gone, grooves being cut on the inboard side of both discs, pads on both sides of both discs are gone. Everything I used was new, nothing rebuilt. WTF over?
 
prolly just cheap pads... ive had that happen to me before...
 
79k20350 said:
prolly just cheap pads... ive had that happen to me before...

But in that amount of miles? I can not believe even the cheapest of cheap pads could not survive for 750 miles.
 
broc944 said:
But in that amount of miles? I can not believe even the cheapest of cheap pads could not survive for 750 miles.

Think about it for a sec...is quality control on the cheap pads company gonna look as hard...? so questionable pads may get through. LAtough most brand x pads last a good while some of there questionable ones may make it through...you may have just gotten a few bad pads.
 
How's your brake equalization?

Did you change your P-valve?
 
It seems fine to me, I was sort of amazed at that. I used to race, so I am very familiar with proper proportioning. I do admit it is difficult to truly judge how a a big truck is doing compared to a 944, but I feel the brakes are dialed in correctly, if anything I was going to give the rear a bit more just due to my driving style. But I think maybe after I replace the brakes I will do the opposite to see how it feels, maybe I need to relearn how to drive, was having trouble drifting in the corners with the Burb:D .
 
jms said:
Any chance the rear circuit has a 10psi residual pressure valve somewhere, most likely in the (stock) proportioning valve - that would explain why your rear pads would wear prematurely, since they're being pushed against the rotor...

This I do not know, what exactly would I be looking for?
 
no. our trucks are not equipped with one.
 
And actually I would say a week after the the axle swap, I had jacked the entire rear of the truck up, to check for anything unusual/verify the ARB was actually working, etc. There was absolutely no brake binding/dragging what so ever.
 
jms said:
That's a negative on that blanket statement - some are. Look up the old posts by GrimReaper...

I thought it was established that by looking through parts blowups that none of our trucks ever came equipped with em....hmm...
 
I have read a lot of the old posts. Even if there is a residual pressure valve, I can not believe it would wear my pads down this fast and start cutting grooves into the rotors. Sand/mud getting caught up in there? My work fan suffers from this also, but it is a design flaw that the dealer is aware of, the rotors stick way out in the open. Others on here have to have done the disc swap and drive out in the mud like myself. Am I the only one that has had this problem? Rally need some ideas on what the cause of this is.
 
Its got to be the pads fault. I can't see how anything else could cause that to happen.
 
Thats pretty much my conclusion on this matter also, I will replace what is needed and inspect what is happening every time I go out. Sloppy gravel roads and trails is all I drive on. I bought the calipers fully loaded, so I am sure they probably had el cheapo pads on them. I will get something better tomorrow and see what happens.
 
did you grease the pins enough? if you go through deep water/mud that will gum them up too. once they are sticky the caliper can't move and the inside pad gets wasted in a hurry. if the inside pads are shot and not the outside pad this is the first thing i would think of.
 
Same deal here, although, not as severe as what you have there. Mine have worn down pretty quickly, kinda suprised me too, i was able to get several months out of them, but they still worn down MUCH quicker than the fronts.

I am leaning towards the idea of the proportioning valve being the problem, probably need an adjustable one, or one designed for disk brakes.

What i mean is that the P-valve is letting more pressure go to the rears than the front, not enough to really make it noticeable, or lock up real easy, but more than normally should,,,,,,i am glad i bought lifetime warranty pads :D

When you get the new pads, bend that wear indicator in slightly further, so you have alittle more advanced warning.
 
4xcrazy said:
Same deal here, although, not as severe as what you have there. Mine have worn down pretty quickly, kinda suprised me too, i was able to get several months out of them, but they still worn down MUCH quicker than the fronts.

I am leaning towards the idea of the proportioning valve being the problem, probably need an adjustable one, or one designed for disk brakes.

What i mean is that the P-valve is letting more pressure go to the rears than the front, not enough to really make it noticeable, or lock up real easy, but more than normally should,,,,,,i am glad i bought lifetime warranty pads :D

When you get the new pads, bend that wear indicator in slightly further, so you have alittle more advanced warning.

In your case, if all you have is teh stock prop valve, you DO need a new one. ALl you need is one inline on the rear brake line and dialing power down from them. The stock prop valve does nothing at all for the rear brakes, it is a 100% front brake thing.
 
Both very good ideas which I will do, I do have a stock prop valve in place, I like the idea of mounting a after market one inside of the cab so I can adjust it on the fly.
 
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