What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

14ff u joint straps/ u bolts

1982blazer

1982blazer

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 11, 2006
Posts
313
Reaction score
2
Location
Tyler Texas
Did some of the older 14 bolts come with u bolts to hold on the joint instead of the straps. I think my 14bff uses u bolts becuase there is no threads in the
pinion yoke. And a local driveline shop sold me a pair of ubolts but as expected they don't fit. Does any body have any part numbers or any thing or any advice. This is the only thing holding me back from diriving the truck.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
if they do i never seen them, then again i only seen a few 14 bolts. they do sell the yolks with the u bolts if youd want to go that route

http://www.shakerbuilt.com/Products.html go all the way to the bottom of the page.

you might be able to go to a spring shop and have them make you some if you give them the measurements and size. but dont konw if they make them that small
 
I was thinking of going /wanting the u bolt style pinion yoke. It honestly looks like my stock 1350 pinion yoke is the ubolt style. I am having trouble finding the correct ubolts.
 
the threads are probably just striped out. the ones that are set up for the straps are way thicker then the ones set up for the ubolts. cause it needs all that extra length for the threads. i just had to drill and retap a few holes on mine, theres like a inch of metal on there and the ones with the straps are like a 1/2 thick.

good luck
 
I was wrong it is the strap style pinion yoke. But i still can't find the right straps, i guess i will just have to go to the junk yard or go to the chevy dealer ship.Auto zone sold me the doorman p# 81000 straps and those are'nt it either.
 
strap style yokes suck get yourself a u-bolt style from northwest fab, HAD, or tom woods, or you could take your yoke to a machine shop and have them machine it for u-bolts
 
Is there any way i can change out the pinion yoke at home, with out using air tools. I don't want to have to take my k5 to a shop just to get the yoke changed out and have to pay a fortune.















i
 
Thanks for the link man, I have not decided yet if i am going to try to get my blazer registered again.It is going to be about 90% trail rig, do you think it would be ok to still do it myself and not reset the back lash and all that.
 
If you are just changing the yoke, you don't need to mess with the gears at all. So there is no adjusting backlash or pinion depth and all that. Just follow the link
 
but then you have to flatten out the backside where the nut sits. its just cast back there and not a smooth seat for the washer and nut.
 
Cornfield creations said:
OK I know I dug this up.BUT, can't you just drill out the holes on the yoke to accept the u-bolts?
Click to expand...

I think the big problem is the the u-bolts are more narrow than the two holes for the straps. If you were to drill the holes out big enough for it to work there would be little or no material left on the outside of the hole.

So basically, this is work for a mill or a really tiny dremel bit, something like that. Of course, you'd need to cut material out of the backside too and make a flat surface for the nut/washer to sit on.

I have done this on a front D60 1410 yoke (needed to get the truck ready for a trip after a vendor sent me the wrong one, only thing local was strap style 1410 yokes). The 14 bolt yoke needs a lot more work than that one did.
 
Cornfield creations said:
OK I know I dug this up.BUT, can't you just drill out the holes on the yoke to accept the u-bolts?
Click to expand...


I have heard of people threading grade 8 bolts into the holes, cutting them flush with the top of the yoke. Then drilling the holes for the u-bolts. If I did this (which I'm thinking about when I start working on that part of the rig again), I'd use lots of red Locktite for the bolts. Real sharp drill bits and a good piliot hole would be needed too. Along with a drill press to get the holes straight.
 
Moroso sells them too. Not sure about a 1410, but I just bought some for my 1350's on my Vette. Part #85810 made for a 12bolt car.....just measure the distance between the 2 bolts. My measurement was about .020 difference, but they threaded in by hand with no binding.
See my pics in my thread in "other rides" about them.
 
toomany said:
I have heard of people threading grade 8 bolts into the holes, cutting them flush with the top of the yoke. Then drilling the holes for the u-bolts. If I did this (which I'm thinking about when I start working on that part of the rig again), I'd use lots of red Locktite for the bolts. Real sharp drill bits and a good piliot hole would be needed too. Along with a drill press to get the holes straight.
Click to expand...

And this helps how? I mean, I could fill the gap left from drilling holes with shredded paper, wouldn't be much different than leaving a sliver of a grade 8 bolt in there.

Even if you welded the bolt at each end there is still no bonding between the metals through the yoke and with, say, 80% of that bolt missing it really serves no purpose.

Just my .02
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom