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1968 C10 DD, project "New Tricks"
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
So.... In about 2 years, we'll have IDENTICAL C/10's!???
Siiiiiiick.... Me, you, and NorCalKid need to take some shots for the calender.
You know MY vote....
Also, theres a "short hump" and a "tall hump" trans tunnel, in these C/10's.
I have a "Short hump", and it clears my TH400 just fine.
You should be fine with a 4L80.
Siiiiiiick.... Me, you, and NorCalKid need to take some shots for the calender.
You know MY vote....
Also, theres a "short hump" and a "tall hump" trans tunnel, in these C/10's.
I have a "Short hump", and it clears my TH400 just fine.
You should be fine with a 4L80.
4l60-e to 4l80-e is huge . like a th350 to th400 size wise.
also the 4l80-e gear ratios are 1-2-3-r same ratio as th400 so you wont get extra low first gear of the 4l60-e tranny.
4l60 to 4l80 also different wiring pin out on main plug and more wires to a 4l80 also .
also I have read a lot th350 to a th400 eats up around 20-25hp less getting to the rear from so much extra spinning mass. so plan on the same from a 4l60-e to 4l80-e
also the 4l80-e gear ratios are 1-2-3-r same ratio as th400 so you wont get extra low first gear of the 4l60-e tranny.
4l60 to 4l80 also different wiring pin out on main plug and more wires to a 4l80 also .
also I have read a lot th350 to a th400 eats up around 20-25hp less getting to the rear from so much extra spinning mass. so plan on the same from a 4l60-e to 4l80-e
Irish1941
1/2 ton status
You like this project. Parts are cheap and everywhere.
The van column you're talking is like a '71-'75. Key was still in the dash.
I'd go new if you can.
The stock ones are still $500 for a tilt.
New one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-69-70-71-72CHEVY-C10-TRUCK-NEW-TILT-STEERING-COLUMN-/380803534738
Here's a van column.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-72-Blazer-GMC-Chevrolet-Truck-Tilt-Automatic-Steering-Column-/291057805383
And a stocker:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-Chevy-Chevrolet-Truck-Pickup-Tilt-Steering-Column-/350938771756
Use a '69-'72 Blazer tank. Damn near a bolt in. Not sure for EFI in-tank pumps but sure there somebody who makes one.
Suspension is the easy part.
Here is one my old trucks. Like '88 or so.
The van column you're talking is like a '71-'75. Key was still in the dash.
I'd go new if you can.
The stock ones are still $500 for a tilt.
New one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-69-70-71-72CHEVY-C10-TRUCK-NEW-TILT-STEERING-COLUMN-/380803534738
Here's a van column.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-72-Blazer-GMC-Chevrolet-Truck-Tilt-Automatic-Steering-Column-/291057805383
And a stocker:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-Chevy-Chevrolet-Truck-Pickup-Tilt-Steering-Column-/350938771756
Use a '69-'72 Blazer tank. Damn near a bolt in. Not sure for EFI in-tank pumps but sure there somebody who makes one.
Suspension is the easy part.
Here is one my old trucks. Like '88 or so.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Here's some good shish about the size difference,
http://m.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1272204&styleid=25
I would still have to go 4l60e for what you are doing. Even if you go 6.0,i would still go with an upgraded 4l60e.
http://m.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1272204&styleid=25
I would still have to go 4l60e for what you are doing. Even if you go 6.0,i would still go with an upgraded 4l60e.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
2wd build infestation here. We've got all generations covered 
Dont be scared of DBW motors the system is supper simple and easy to install in theses trucks. I think with the 2003 pedal assembly I used 2 of the 3 holes lined up. With a little time you can lengthen the harness and put the control module anywhere you'd like.
The wiring for the LS swap is pretty straight forward too lt1swap.com has all the info you need and is easy to follow. Or pacific fab has a nice harness for like $800?
Looking forward to this build
The wiring for the LS swap is pretty straight forward too lt1swap.com has all the info you need and is easy to follow. Or pacific fab has a nice harness for like $800?
Looking forward to this build
To satisfy....
y5mgisi
1 ton status
We like pics!
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Its funny....but I also.bought a Gold C10 and have a Gold 70 Chevy.
We might need a 2wd section on here with all the 2wd builds going on
Or a 2wd page on the calender
I would rather get the lowest millage motor I can. This can be a problem if I'm looking for DBC set ups. I'm not thrilled with sensors and dodads, but if I keep it as close to factory as possible, it should be easy to diagnose problems or even take it to a dealership if I'm broke down out in the boonies.
Kinda got off topic there..... Can you elaborate on the DBW stuff? I'm reading through all kinds of info and builds, but most start with DBC stuff.
And I am still reading. I've got a long ways to go but trying to move as fast as possible. Stripping frame today, sending to sandblaster, and picking up CPP stuff
This IS a '67-72 frame right?
For some reason I don't remember seeing a bend above the axle like this.
For some reason I don't remember seeing a bend above the axle like this.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
yes
Gettin started
stripped sexy
Boxes and boxes of CPP stuff
stripped sexy
Boxes and boxes of CPP stuff
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y5mgisi
1 ton status
What are you going to do with the frame itself? Sand blast and powder coat?
Honestly, I was thinking just sandblast and paint it. But I'm now thinking of doing a semi-gloss black PC. It's at the shop now, not sure when I'll get it back though.
I'm not sure if I'll ruin the coating anywhere. I still need to cut out for the C-notch, but I'm sure the bracket will hide any burns in the coating.
I'm not sure if I'll ruin the coating anywhere. I still need to cut out for the C-notch, but I'm sure the bracket will hide any burns in the coating.
a good primer and decent paint is the way to go imo if your gonna get it blasted.. if your just gonna give a wirewheel or something, I would suggest other..
I'd never powdercoat anything unless I knew every nut, screw, hole, etc was in before coating.. and that doesn't happen too often..
I'd never powdercoat anything unless I knew every nut, screw, hole, etc was in before coating.. and that doesn't happen too often..
If it's not too much to ask, would you mind linking me to something from Home Depot or some other major store? I was thinking Rustolium spray can for primer and oil base for top coat. Brushed and rolled, like my Blazer
I don't have the means or area to spray 
well, all that air dried enamel stuff is pretty much the same cr@p... you wont find anything decent at the depo, chain stores.. seems a waste to blast it for that.. but it's your rig, whatever avenue you take... I was talking more like 125 for sprayable primer, and the same for paint...
I'm sure you'll have a chorus of eastwood chassis saver, POR15, etc like that at this point.. but air=dried, is air-dried....all rattlecan primers are cr@p, so I'm not gonna pick one...
but sure, get something that describes itself as a self-etching primer, coat of that, than brush on the rusto..
you could spend a bit more and go to a west marine for some moeller ryoken green in spraybomb... runs about 10 a can... 3, 4 cans would get a decent coat on that...
I'm sure you'll have a chorus of eastwood chassis saver, POR15, etc like that at this point.. but air=dried, is air-dried....all rattlecan primers are cr@p, so I'm not gonna pick one...
but sure, get something that describes itself as a self-etching primer, coat of that, than brush on the rusto..
you could spend a bit more and go to a west marine for some moeller ryoken green in spraybomb... runs about 10 a can... 3, 4 cans would get a decent coat on that...
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