Clutch driven LS will eventually wear out. Not if but when. Take care of it and the TrueTrac should go forever.
CK5
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1968 C10 DD, project "New Tricks"
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
Engine and trans are sold. Got a cool $350 for it. Need to finish painting my frame and start assembling parts. Right now, I'm not sure if I should pull the factory AC stuff off the firewall and run aftermarket under-dash unit. I'm not "after" a clean firewall, just more room. BUT, if it costs leg room I'd rather not.
Also noticed I have the small trans hump, I believe. Not sure how that's going to play out with the 4L60. Anyone have a large hump laying around that they don't need?
Friend of mine
Also noticed I have the small trans hump, I believe. Not sure how that's going to play out with the 4L60. Anyone have a large hump laying around that they don't need?
Friend of mine
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I'm fairly certain the 4l60e will fit fine in a small hump. Good deal on the sale!
I have a 700R4 in my '72 with a small hump. I don't think that the electrical plug on the 4l60E will mess with it. Not sure.
I will tell you that I took the Vintage Air out of my '70 K10 and installed factory. One of my reasons was the fan noise, but I had other complaints. The factory box clears my fat-block with ease. (IMHO) It is sitting in the factory position for 4X4 which puts it back close to the firewall.
I will tell you that I took the Vintage Air out of my '70 K10 and installed factory. One of my reasons was the fan noise, but I had other complaints. The factory box clears my fat-block with ease. (IMHO) It is sitting in the factory position for 4X4 which puts it back close to the firewall.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
It will fit a small hump.... Ive seen it.
Google: "4l60 small hump 67-72".
Google: "4l60 small hump 67-72".
good to hear
The AC system is sort of there. It's missing the ducting behind the dash and the engine compartment box is cracked a little
I didn't know it, but I guess they put the driers on the core support. The only thing that haunts my dreams is the wiring. I'm terrible at it.
The AC system is sort of there. It's missing the ducting behind the dash and the engine compartment box is cracked a little
I didn't know it, but I guess they put the driers on the core support. The only thing that haunts my dreams is the wiring. I'm terrible at it.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Omfg, that AC wiring SUCKS.
I had to cross reference 4 schematics, to get mine figured out., And it's only like 10 wires.
I get why dudes that have the money, buy all the new stuff.
Its just way less headache.
I had to cross reference 4 schematics, to get mine figured out., And it's only like 10 wires.
I get why dudes that have the money, buy all the new stuff.
Its just way less headache.
Its not just the wiring, its vacuum hoses too. Thats the part I dont want to deal with. When I find $1500 I dont need it will go to a vintage air system. If you are running an ls swap I think it is a little cheaper. You should already have the mounting bracket and compressor setup
The small hump isnt all that small. I crammed a nv4500 under mine with a little massaging with a bfh
Would you mind going into detail?
Also, does anyone have experience with the "caster" mod? I'm reading about some people re-drilling the holes in the lower control arm shaft, effectively moving the arm forward and gaining caster. Reports are 7* afterwords and a slightly more centered wheel in the well. Thinking of doing this to the CPP arms.
I am not bragging here, but the wiring and vacuum lines don't bother me. I did not like the excess blower fan noise in the cab. I was used to the factory stuff. (my Dad has a '72 and '69 factory A/C trucks) I also had huge issues with the Vintage Air set-up in the winter. Other than the blower noise, the A/C worked great. The system could not handle humidity in the winter of on a cool, rainy night. So I am keeping the Sanden, changing the evaporator core to '85 era. I found out about it on that 'other' truck forum a few years ago.
edit; If i need to explain more, just tell me. I will share whatever I can.
edit; If i need to explain more, just tell me. I will share whatever I can.
After thinking about it more, would you benefit from moving the engine back? Or do you already have plans to do that? No distributor clearance issues in your case!
I have no idea! 
I would love to move it as far back as possible, just to get better weight bias. 
Still kind of winging everything 
I would love to move it as far back as possible, just to get better weight bias. Still kind of winging everything
Well I am hoping that it will be ok with you to post a couple of pics in your thread. I am hoping that you can get an idea of space around the valve cover and A/C box. I had to stretch the firewall some at the valve cover, so don't pay much attention to that. As I said, the engine is in the factory 4x4 location, which if I remember is 2.5in. back. I would imagine that you could get maybe a tiny bit more with no distributor to worry about. I think you would gain some room between the frame rails for exhaust/headers due to the taper in the frame.
The crack in your A/C box gives you the opportunity to fix it and then smooth it up to your liking. I used some high density foam tape to fill the gap when converting to the newer evaporator core. This way I have a system with orifice tube and compressor cycling so to lose the POA valve. I have test fit the accumulator, no problem. Yes it will require custom lines. A member on 67-72chevy trucks forum, showed me what he did to make this conversion. Obviously, mine is not done yet, but I don't believe it will be a problem.
The crack in your A/C box gives you the opportunity to fix it and then smooth it up to your liking. I used some high density foam tape to fill the gap when converting to the newer evaporator core. This way I have a system with orifice tube and compressor cycling so to lose the POA valve. I have test fit the accumulator, no problem. Yes it will require custom lines. A member on 67-72chevy trucks forum, showed me what he did to make this conversion. Obviously, mine is not done yet, but I don't believe it will be a problem.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Ive never set the engine back with AC but I do like putting the engine back in the 6 cyl holes
Ok, I'm going to get some more pictures up soon. Thanks for the replies fellas, I want to keep it going but I'm a tad lost. So I'll get some good AC system pictures and my motor mounts. I would like to see what frame position you guys are talking about, or if this is a "drill new holes" kinda spot.
Also, picked up a 12b today for $100. Going to sand blast it, paint, and throw some new stuff in I went 12b because I'm sure it will be strong enough for what I am doing and it's way cheaper than building a 9".
Question: What is the spline count for a '71 12b axle for a C10?
Also, picked up a 12b today for $100. Going to sand blast it, paint, and throw some new stuff in
I went 12b because I'm sure it will be strong enough for what I am doing and it's way cheaper than building a 9".Question: What is the spline count for a '71 12b axle for a C10?
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Should be 30 spline. I don't think they made any different spline counts for a 12b did they?
I think so, but I've seen some stuff mentioned on eBay about 28 and 33 spline. I think that was for the cars though, but makes me question what little I know. Looking to get some goodies for it
I don't believe that the A/C box would make a difference. The 6 cyl. holes should be behind where your motor mount stands are currently. (That's what I see under the hood of my "72) IIRC, that is also the 4x4 location. (what they did for 6cyl,4x4 I don't know, doesn't matter here) But you should be able to use the back set of holes to mock up and look at what works. I believe you will have to drill holes for the trans x-member.
Don't take this next as cold hard fact, but I think I have a buddy who put his bigblock in that location, in his '67 C10 for the dragstrip. I think you could play around some without too much hassle, maybe even go back farther with some work. This is assuming that a drop-in fan shroud is not a concern. I am not sure if you can with this swap.
I hope to be helping, not hindering your progress. (you know, it wouldn't take much work on the firewall to make room for the vavle covers...
)
I am so stoked to keep this going. Thanks for the replies fellas, I'll have to take a super close look at moving the engine back (when I get it) I've got some TBSS manifolds coming from a member, so that should help with the exhaust/frame clearance. For now, I just hope the CPP mounts wont interfere with them. I have seen it on other builds, but not with my "sheet metal" CPP mounts. (instead of the tube style ones)
Got the axle to the sandblaster this morning, early before work. Ordered a rebuild kit and Eaton Posi from Summit last night. Going to weld up the axle tubes while it's raw.
I'm a little bummed my C-notch brackets didn't come with templates. I can put the brackets next to the frame and use a cardboard template, but I'm still just guessing
I'm also worried about the alignment of the rear trailing arms. My driver side is about 2" more to the side than the passenger (at the U bolt holes). I'm sure once I get the axle in place, 3rd link in, and ride height it can be adjusted. The trailing arm crossmember went in fine. I upgraded the 1/2" bolts to 9/16". (the crossmember holes are that already, just needed to open frame a little) Also, I don't like some of the hardware CPP supplies. It's all grade 8 (kinda meh looking) but comes with lock washers and regular nuts. -----wasn't down with those. Changed to pinch nuts and better looking grade 8 stuff. ----- actually, pretty sure I read this problem in another thread too.
Got the axle to the sandblaster this morning, early before work. Ordered a rebuild kit and Eaton Posi from Summit last night. Going to weld up the axle tubes while it's raw.
I'm a little bummed my C-notch brackets didn't come with templates. I can put the brackets next to the frame and use a cardboard template, but I'm still just guessing
I'm also worried about the alignment of the rear trailing arms. My driver side is about 2" more to the side than the passenger (at the U bolt holes). I'm sure once I get the axle in place, 3rd link in, and ride height it can be adjusted. The trailing arm crossmember went in fine. I upgraded the 1/2" bolts to 9/16". (the crossmember holes are that already, just needed to open frame a little) Also, I don't like some of the hardware CPP supplies. It's all grade 8 (kinda meh looking) but comes with lock washers and regular nuts. -----wasn't down with those. Changed to pinch nuts and better looking grade 8 stuff. ----- actually, pretty sure I read this problem in another thread too.
Ugg, road block. My CPP arms are set up for 9/16" studs, like my C20 has. But what they are going on is my C10, which has 1/2" studs. WTF?? There is no hardware included and nothing in the directions. I'm also surprised they don't include new nuts for the studs or lower A arm u-bolts. Stupid hang ups, wasn't expecting them this early.
