I was being sarcastic.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
1972 Buick Skylark
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2000
- Posts
- 9,123
- Reaction score
- 7,077
I flip the pan over check for squareness and put the lip on a flat surface and go around with a ball pean hammer and hit the bolt holes from the inside out to flatten them out. I prefer the brush on permatex over RTV. but I have used both, not together of course.
I also will straighten the pan as much as possible and push the wholes from the inside to make it as best as possible and usually go for a gasket but if I must, rtv is used in minimal quantities and I just get the pan close enough to get all the gaps closed and leave overnight then tighten the next day.
That way I have a thickness of a gasket then I compress it
I'm pretty sure it was Right Stuff RTV because once it released it came off pretty easy. When I use it on stuff I just skim coat the gasket with it.
I'm going to put a drain plug in the pan. That way it will seal just fine. If I don't add the drain plug to make future removal easier, it's guaranteed to leak.
I'm pretty sure this trans has been rebuilt. The separator plate and valve body gaskets had TransTec logos all over them. But no shift kit based on all 4 check balls being present. Fluid was in good condition too. All I remember the previous owner telling me was that the transmission operated great. I don't remember if he said anything about him knowing it had been rebuilt.
I'm going to put a drain plug in the pan. That way it will seal just fine. If I don't add the drain plug to make future removal easier, it's guaranteed to leak.
I'm pretty sure this trans has been rebuilt. The separator plate and valve body gaskets had TransTec logos all over them. But no shift kit based on all 4 check balls being present. Fluid was in good condition too. All I remember the previous owner telling me was that the transmission operated great. I don't remember if he said anything about him knowing it had been rebuilt.
Mostly got the transmissions swapped. The one we pulled out had brownish red fluid, not surprising. It was FILTHY!
We used an adapter plate from TransDapt. When we first mocked it up, I was dubious it would clear the flex plate, but it ended up being fine. I did have to run a 5/8" bit thru the dowel holes to open them just a touch and then the plate went on with a little tapping by a dead blow hammer. I was worried that without the dowels, mating the trans to the engine would be a fiasco. Luckily it worked out well especially considering my son had never done anything like this. It's a testament to the accuracy of the holes in the adapter plate. If they had been off, we would have really been fighting.
The plate bolts to the engine with counter sunk bolts. The bottom holes are just thru holes so you can still bolt into the block - the kit includes longer bolts for that. The other 4 bolts for the transmission are fine thread bolts that thread into the 1/4" plate. The top 2 original Buick mounting bolts are still open even after the Chevy trans is installed. Which is good, because I needed to replace one with a regular bolt for the dipstick tube.
The one downside is Buick bolt locations match up well to the trans tunnel shape. The Chevy bolt locations are wider and end up outside of the trans tunnel. So you can't use the long extension for easier access. I'm a torque spec nerd so we had to use crows feet to torque the middle bolts.
The only thing we fought with a little bit is the silver cup in the end of the crankshaft that you can see in the picture above. At one point it got cocked and was fighting us getting the trans to pull all the way up to the engine until we figured out what was going on.
Another new one for me was the kick down cable. I went up to the carb to disconnect it and couldn't figure out where the heck it is. There was only a throttle cable. I thought maybe it wasn't hooked up. Then I realized it goes into the firewall below the throttle cable, and it's connected on the pedal.
I kinda like that setup better than the style I'm used to being connected on throttle lever at the carb. Makes future carb changes easier.
I really like having a good transmission jack. It goes high enough to mount the trans on an engine stand. This is the Chevy TH350 going in the car.
Another interesting thing is how the trans crossmember is mounted. There is the typical trans mount in the middle, but there are also rubber mounts at the ends of the crossmember.
Have 2 things left to resolve.
We used an adapter plate from TransDapt. When we first mocked it up, I was dubious it would clear the flex plate, but it ended up being fine. I did have to run a 5/8" bit thru the dowel holes to open them just a touch and then the plate went on with a little tapping by a dead blow hammer. I was worried that without the dowels, mating the trans to the engine would be a fiasco. Luckily it worked out well especially considering my son had never done anything like this. It's a testament to the accuracy of the holes in the adapter plate. If they had been off, we would have really been fighting.
The plate bolts to the engine with counter sunk bolts. The bottom holes are just thru holes so you can still bolt into the block - the kit includes longer bolts for that. The other 4 bolts for the transmission are fine thread bolts that thread into the 1/4" plate. The top 2 original Buick mounting bolts are still open even after the Chevy trans is installed. Which is good, because I needed to replace one with a regular bolt for the dipstick tube.
The one downside is Buick bolt locations match up well to the trans tunnel shape. The Chevy bolt locations are wider and end up outside of the trans tunnel. So you can't use the long extension for easier access. I'm a torque spec nerd so we had to use crows feet to torque the middle bolts.
The only thing we fought with a little bit is the silver cup in the end of the crankshaft that you can see in the picture above. At one point it got cocked and was fighting us getting the trans to pull all the way up to the engine until we figured out what was going on.
Another new one for me was the kick down cable. I went up to the carb to disconnect it and couldn't figure out where the heck it is. There was only a throttle cable. I thought maybe it wasn't hooked up. Then I realized it goes into the firewall below the throttle cable, and it's connected on the pedal.
I kinda like that setup better than the style I'm used to being connected on throttle lever at the carb. Makes future carb changes easier.
I really like having a good transmission jack. It goes high enough to mount the trans on an engine stand. This is the Chevy TH350 going in the car.
Another interesting thing is how the trans crossmember is mounted. There is the typical trans mount in the middle, but there are also rubber mounts at the ends of the crossmember.
Have 2 things left to resolve.
- Have to shorten the driveshaft. The truck trans has a tail housing that is 3" longer than what's used in cars. This is fine tho, because if we ever want to put a 200r4 in, the shortened driveshaft will work with it.
- The torque converter bolts I bought are too short. The Buick converter has threaded bosses where the truck converter uses bolts and nuts. The bit issue is we have to install spacers because of the adapter plate. The kit includes thick washers to use (2 per bolt), but I'm going to buy actual spacers since I have to buy bolts anyway.
Last edited:
Torquing bellhousing bolts is next level “torque spec nerd”.
Martin
Martin
I always do. Except on the semi. It was multiple uga dugas.
I torque and blue lock tight them. I was most concerned about the bolts mounting the plate to the engine block since 2 of those bolts are concealed.
I had to rescue a buddy in Boulder because he couldn't get the clutch to disengage in his K30. This was a day or 2 after he had done a motor swap into the truck. Turned out the bellhousing bolts were all loose and when he pushed in the clutch the trans and engine were separating instead of releasing the clutch. Ever since then I torque and locktite the bolts.
I had to rescue a buddy in Boulder because he couldn't get the clutch to disengage in his K30. This was a day or 2 after he had done a motor swap into the truck. Turned out the bellhousing bolts were all loose and when he pushed in the clutch the trans and engine were separating instead of releasing the clutch. Ever since then I torque and locktite the bolts.
I'm not saying you shouldn't. Just had never even heard of someone doing so.
Martin
Martin
I've gotta figure out how to get the car up a little higher. Currently I use typical plastic ramps that are about 7" tall. The problem is I can't rollover under the car, I'm stuck in whatever orientation I'm in unless I crawl back out. Plus sometimes things are too close and right in my face, like the exhaust.
I see on Roadkill Garage the put jackstands under the lift points at the front. I know there can be a problem there with not being able to open the doors once the weight is on the stands.
I'm curious if there's a better type of jack stand for this purpose. I know 2 post lifts would raise the car in the same place, but they have those big round pads. Is there a jackstand that has round pads like that? I just feel like the narrow little saddles of the standard jackstand seems sketchy under the lift points, like the could slip off.
It was a lot of fun figuring out how to get the trans in and out from under the car this weekend. Out wasn't as bad because we just slid the trans off the jack onto the floor with a little piece of plywood acting as a ramp. However, we could lift the trans onto the jack under the car. Luckily I have 2 floor jacks. We put one under each lower a-arm and jacked the front as high as they would go. Still had to tip the trans forward to roll it under the car.
Any thoughts/ideas?
I see on Roadkill Garage the put jackstands under the lift points at the front. I know there can be a problem there with not being able to open the doors once the weight is on the stands.
I'm curious if there's a better type of jack stand for this purpose. I know 2 post lifts would raise the car in the same place, but they have those big round pads. Is there a jackstand that has round pads like that? I just feel like the narrow little saddles of the standard jackstand seems sketchy under the lift points, like the could slip off.
It was a lot of fun figuring out how to get the trans in and out from under the car this weekend. Out wasn't as bad because we just slid the trans off the jack onto the floor with a little piece of plywood acting as a ramp. However, we could lift the trans onto the jack under the car. Luckily I have 2 floor jacks. We put one under each lower a-arm and jacked the front as high as they would go. Still had to tip the trans forward to roll it under the car.
Any thoughts/ideas?
Wow, you have been working on only trucks. The Buford is a full frame car. The doors are still going to open and shut if you have jackstands at the front lift points. I did the trans in my Nova that same way in the driveway and even though that was a unibody the doors never sagged.
I had regular jackstands on a chunk of 2x12 up front and then jacked up the rear and set our ramps under the rear tires. Had it off the ground enough to slide the trans out on a chunk of cardboard. Still wasn't high enough for the trans jack, but the one we used was a tank and not real slim. I did have enough room to move around under it though. I was 100 pounds lighter then though!
Cars you definitely need to lift the rear end as well as the front. Even the 94 1500 I swapped the trans in I lifted the rear. Higher the better front and back. But be safe. I’m to old for this shit too. Man I need a hoist. Buddy just called me today asking me to swap a trans into his S 10 blazer. I might do it? But it will be on the floor with jack stands.
Crap!
I would double check the 2004r measurement and the drive shaft length. iirc the 2004r is the same length as a power glide/th350 short tail.
In my 66 Chevelle I removed the power glide put the correct flex plate, installed the 2004r with unmodified Chevelle drive shaft. Only mods move the cross member back, add tv cable.
In my 66 Chevelle I removed the power glide put the correct flex plate, installed the 2004r with unmodified Chevelle drive shaft. Only mods move the cross member back, add tv cable.
That is true, I haven't had a car to wrench on since we sold the 71 cuda in 2006. And that was the only other project car we've owned. Everything else has been pickups and Blazers.
We did lift the rear of the car, but I just had short 3-ton jack stands. With those stands under the axle tubes, even at full height they didn't lift the rear as high as the front on the ramps. I did notice on Roadkill Garage they were using the taller 6-ton stands.
As a side note I like Roadkill Garage the best, because they are still working on the ground. I figured with the age those guys are getting to, any day now Dulcich is going to install a lift in his shop, and then I won't like the show quite as much.
It is interesting how much better it is to lay on a collapsed cardboard box versus right on the concrete. Been thinking about trying to find a cheap yoga mat to use. The problem I had with the trans swap was my side being sore because I didn't have room to change position so I was laying in the same spot all the time. I could feel the irritated spots on my skin when the hot shower water hit them.
Although I was thinking we should be done laying under the car for a little while. I'll wait for spring before we do the oil pan and main seal work. The next thing should be the 4bbl intake and carb swap if TA Performance can ever get us the intake we ordered in October.
Yeah, I may be wrong about it. I was searching more for the short versus long tail shaft TH350 and just saw some stuff come up about the 200r4.
Yeah I use cardboard as much as I can working in my driveway, mainly because the concrete is almost 70 years old and it's rough like 40 grit sandpaper. The other reason is the cardboard absorbs (almost) all the fluid I always spill no matter how careful I am LOL.
I had a plastic lined foam sheet that aftermarket fenders get shipped in for my driveway work. It was about 1/4" thick and provided a nice about of insulation from the cold/hot concrete.
It came up missing and I was pissed. Need to get another from my body shop before I leave.
It came up missing and I was pissed. Need to get another from my body shop before I leave.
Get the interlockable gym mats. You can get six at Wal-Mart for like 15 bucks. This way you can make a nice big pad if you need to or you can sit on them if you need a smaller space. And they're nice and thick foam.
I just made an expensive mistake! 
Had the driveshaft shortened too much. I made 2 marks on the shaft because the first time I marked it I realized the yoke was only partially inserted. Inserted it fully and made a second mark. Then later when I was making the notes on the shaft with my sharpie I scribbled out the second mark. So I had them shorten it based on the yoke barely being inserted. 
I had it completely turned around in my head. Should have scratched out the first mark while I was under the car!
Wasted $200 on making a driveshaft I can't use for anything.
The safer thing would have been to measure from the output seal to the axle yoke like I needed an entirely new shaft. Then there couldn't have been any confusion.
Had the driveshaft shortened too much. I made 2 marks on the shaft because the first time I marked it I realized the yoke was only partially inserted. Inserted it fully and made a second mark. Then later when I was making the notes on the shaft with my sharpie I scribbled out the second mark. So I had them shorten it based on the yoke barely being inserted. I had it completely turned around in my head. Should have scratched out the first mark while I was under the car!Wasted $200 on making a driveshaft I can't use for anything.
The safer thing would have been to measure from the output seal to the axle yoke like I needed an entirely new shaft. Then there couldn't have been any confusion.
Can you just take an old truck driveshaft and have it shortened and put your yoke on it? Used to do that all the time if you have one sitting around.
