1972 Buick Skylark

[mrk5]

I do have one, actually from the same C10 the trans came out of. I was going to see if the could use it. Wasn't sure tho because it starts small then balloons out to a larger diameter, then back down to the smaller diameter again. It would have to be cut back to the larger diameter area.

 

[imiceman44]

I just made an expensive mistake! Had the driveshaft shortened too much. I made 2 marks on the shaft because the first time I marked it I realized the yoke was only partially inserted. Inserted it fully and made a second mark. Then later when I was making the notes on the shaft with my sharpie I scribbled out the second mark. So I had them shorten it based on the yoke barely being inserted. I had it completely turned around in my head. Should have scratched out the first mark while I was under the car!

Wasted $200 on making a driveshaft I can't use for anything.

The safer thing would have been to measure from the output seal to the axle yoke like I needed an entirely new shaft. Then there couldn't have been any confusion.

Just retube this one, it shouldn't be more than a couple of hundreds

 

[mrk5]

Just retube this one, it shouldn't be more than a couple of hundreds

I don't know, maybe we don't have the best priced driveshaft shop - there's only 1 my area. It was $200 to shorten it and ujoints. I figured re-tubing would be more, but I can check.

 

[kennyw]

With the price of tubing being so high, expect over $500 to re-tube. It would be much cheaper finding another used shaft, even if it needs to be cut down. I have a pile behind my shop but shipping would be in the $100 range.

 

[mrk5]

With the price of tubing being so high, expect over $500 to re-tube. It would be much cheaper finding another used shaft, even if it needs to be cut down. I have a pile behind my shop but shipping would be in the $100 range.

I think I have a solution, just kicking myself for making it more expensive.

 

[imiceman44]

I don't know, maybe we don't have the best priced driveshaft shop - there's only 1 my area. It was $200 to shorten it and ujoints. I figured re-tubing would be more, but I can check.

Yeah shortening plus ujoints and balancing for $200 is not bad.
With good ujoints now it shouldn't be more than a couple of hundreds for retubing

 

[max 02]

If it makes you feel better I destroyed a brand new 60 dollar spicer universal installing it on my daughters Dodge. Blew the cap out pressing it in the vice. This afternoon. And yesterday I installed a new hub seal… forgot to put the bearing in the hub!

It’s just time and money!
Lol!

 

[70jimmy]

Once the evidence is gone it didn't happen. Unless you post about it...

 

[mrk5]

We post about it here so it lives on in infamy. Haha

But seriously I post about my mistakes because sometimes I think we start feeling like everyone else has the perfect build and never makes mistakes. I think it's good to know we're all making mistakes and figuring out how to fix them.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

At least you didn’t get Herculiner on your Hootus.

 

[kennyw]

At least you didn’t get Herculiner on your Hootus.

I thought that was POR15?

 

[mrk5]

I'll pass on either option.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I thought that was POR15?

Herculiner.

Think their may have been a POR-15 related incident though.

 

[mrk5]

"New" transmission is a success! Old one was definitely slipping all the time. You can feel how much better the new trans pulls in acceleration.

Passing downshift works great too. I really like that kick down cable setup on the gas pedal.

Dang thing was thirsty. I had to scrounge all the ATF I had in various places. It needed 7 qts. I figured it might need 3 but I guess there had been more fluid drained than I realized.

Patrick noticed this on the underside of the hood:



Looks like 6-15-72 so I'm thinking this is a factory marking. Guessing the hood was installed on 6-15-72.

When we were towing the car into the shop, a lot of fluid leaked out the steering box at the sector shaft. But it's doesn't leak when the engine is running. What would leak with no pressure in the system? It was turning the steering wheel that produced the leak when we towed the car.

 

[centexk5]

Pump isn’t running so fluid isn’t circulating so turning it one way or the other may raise the fluid level and push it out of the cap.

 

[max 02]

Pump isn’t running so fluid isn’t circulating so turning it one way or the other may raise the fluid level and push it out of the cap.

That’s where all the trans fluid went.
Pumps to full.

 

[mrk5]

That’s where all the trans fluid went.
Pumps to full.

Patrick did comment that it looked kinda red. I told him it's pretty common for people to puts trans fluid in the power steering. He wanted to know when we were going to change out the fluid. I told it'd be okay. Haha

 

[Wes Harden]

With no pressure on the steering box seals the fluid can slip by while working the box.

 

[mrk5]

What is the best way to spot treat rust like this?



I was thinking maybe orbital sand the area then spot paint it.

Patrick would like to repaint the car, but who know how long it might be before that happens. I'd like to stop this rust from getting worse.

 

[Truckman4life]

I'm wondering the same, my super duty has a few spots I'd like to at least stop from rusting. I'm thinking rust converter then I'm not sure what. @ryoken aren't you the resident rust/body guy?