Call it patina. The value of the car goes up.
CK5
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1972 Buick Skylark
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
media blast it.. you can buy a cheap little spot blaster to do stuff like that... hit it with a sander/grinder first to knock the heavy stuff off.. than blast the pits clean.... prime, yada, yada.. you could acid wash it, but side spots like that don't work too well... need to keep the surface wet...
just as a general rule of thumb for best rust treatment methods, in order... not that spot in particular... remove/replace, media blast, acid, converter, encapsilator... for converters, I like ospho...
just as a general rule of thumb for best rust treatment methods, in order... not that spot in particular... remove/replace, media blast, acid, converter, encapsilator... for converters, I like ospho...
Patina is okay, but I don't want it to become speed holes.
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you can just douche it with a bit of rattlecan primer and paint after to stop the process until you paint it down the road...
I can think of lots of handy uses for that.Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!www.harborfreight.com
you can just douche it with a bit of rattlecan primer and paint after to stop the process until you paint it down the road...
From the looks of the cracking in the paint above the rust spots, I would bet that there is body repair under that cracking spot. You might open a can of worms up there. Try to just spot blast the rust, and don't go too crazy above that area.
After blowing up the pic, I believe that when it was painted, the paint attacked whatever paint/primer was underneath, leading to the rust.
I guess we'll just proceed cautiously and see what happens.
There's a 4 door brown 72 for sale in Grand Junction at $3500. It has some parts we could use but that's more than we paid for this car. Maybe it won't sell and we can scoop it up for a deal in a couple months.
There's a 4 door brown 72 for sale in Grand Junction at $3500. It has some parts we could use but that's more than we paid for this car. Maybe it won't sell and we can scoop it up for a deal in a couple months.
They already dropped the price $300 after just 5 days. If I wait another month it might be down to $1000 at that rate. https://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/d/grand-junction-1972-skylark/7423056715.html
I like that one! Come over and get it!!
That is a $5k car here.
Craiger ss's and 2 motors maybe 2 transmissions
Cool four door.
Martin
Martin
Here you go. https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/66142898 Complete a/c car with a rebuildable 455 included.
"Car is solid, complete and runs and drives well. Car will need to be trailered."
That doesn't build a lot of confidence......
I wonder how rough that two door is?
Martin
That doesn't build a lot of confidence......
I wonder how rough that two door is?
Martin
Buy it for me and I will!
If it makes you feel better, you would be buying for my son. Imagine how his life must be with me as a father! He deserves it.
Oooh 455
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
If that wasn’t across the country I would offer them 2500 and make it my next project
Making this car a 4 barrel.
I thought the shape of the intake ports looked very reminiscent of an LS.
Although they're pretty sloppily cut. A fella could probably see some significant gains doing some port work.
Messing with a valley pan gasket reminds me of our cuda with the 383. You can get more typical composite gaskets, but you have to keep the valley part of the pan to act as a baffle for the manifold mounted PCV valve.
We used a bathroom scale to determine the aluminum intake took 44 pounds off the front of the car. It's made by TA Performance and it's the only aluminum intake you can get for a Buick 350.
The intake is a dual plane and setup for a quadrajet. I'm using the Speed Demon carb that was on the C10 and it needs an adapter/spacer to work on the spreadbore pattern. I'm a little worried about hood clearance. I hope I won't need to source a different carb.
Noticed the carb doesn't open 100% with the pedal; probably 75% max. This might be a good "new driver" mod. Haha. I also remembered I had added an extension to the throttle lever when it was on the C10. If I eliminate that an move the cable attachment back down, that will net additional throttle movement, correct?
Have to throw in the picture of the kid learning how to lounge on his car.
I thought the shape of the intake ports looked very reminiscent of an LS.
Although they're pretty sloppily cut. A fella could probably see some significant gains doing some port work.
Messing with a valley pan gasket reminds me of our cuda with the 383. You can get more typical composite gaskets, but you have to keep the valley part of the pan to act as a baffle for the manifold mounted PCV valve.
We used a bathroom scale to determine the aluminum intake took 44 pounds off the front of the car. It's made by TA Performance and it's the only aluminum intake you can get for a Buick 350.
The intake is a dual plane and setup for a quadrajet. I'm using the Speed Demon carb that was on the C10 and it needs an adapter/spacer to work on the spreadbore pattern. I'm a little worried about hood clearance. I hope I won't need to source a different carb.
Noticed the carb doesn't open 100% with the pedal; probably 75% max. This might be a good "new driver" mod. Haha. I also remembered I had added an extension to the throttle lever when it was on the C10. If I eliminate that an move the cable attachment back down, that will net additional throttle movement, correct?
Have to throw in the picture of the kid learning how to lounge on his car.
