I mean…he’s a teenager so if a set of cheap headers and an open element air intake fell on it while this was all happening…
CK5
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1972 Buick Skylark
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Be pretty simple to throw a cam in it with it on a stand. Maybe some new rockers.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Tunnel ram.
Martin.
Martin.
200 shot of nitrous. No 455 needed.
I've talked to him about it before and he has zero interest in hopping it up. He'd rather the air conditioning worked. 
beags86
Eastbound and Down
That's a shame
You can have a 455 AND air conditioning.
Martin
Martin
Pass anything but a gas station
beags86
Eastbound and Down
You can have a 455 AND air conditioning AND a tunnel ram.
And nitrous.
Haven't done much with this car lately. Patrick did get LED headlights for Christmas but he hasn't been able to try them out because it's got a very bad rear main leak.
I had forgotten how unenjoyable it is to clean off 52 year old cork gasket.
Nobody technically makes a rubber seal for the Buick 350, just rope seals. I say technically because it turns out people have been using a Ford 460 seal for decades. I can confirm it fits like it was made for it.
When we pulled the cap off there was quite literally no seal in it. Only a tiny bit of residue indicated with an arrow.
There wasn't but a speck of material on top of the crank where the seal should have been.
When we dropped the pan there was gunk oozing off the oil pump pickup screen. I had thought it was sludge but it was oddly stringy. After finding no seal I'm convinced it was the rear man seal on the pickup screen. The consistency was very similar to the little dab of material in the cap. But I don't know if it's possible for the seal to pass into the pan even as stringy sludge.
This is not a sludged up engine. The oil pressure is quite good.
I can't believe the seal was completely gone. Glad we're getting it done.
I had forgotten how unenjoyable it is to clean off 52 year old cork gasket.
Nobody technically makes a rubber seal for the Buick 350, just rope seals. I say technically because it turns out people have been using a Ford 460 seal for decades. I can confirm it fits like it was made for it.
When we pulled the cap off there was quite literally no seal in it. Only a tiny bit of residue indicated with an arrow.
There wasn't but a speck of material on top of the crank where the seal should have been.
When we dropped the pan there was gunk oozing off the oil pump pickup screen. I had thought it was sludge but it was oddly stringy. After finding no seal I'm convinced it was the rear man seal on the pickup screen. The consistency was very similar to the little dab of material in the cap. But I don't know if it's possible for the seal to pass into the pan even as stringy sludge.
This is not a sludged up engine. The oil pressure is quite good.
I can't believe the seal was completely gone. Glad we're getting it done.
On the plus side, that bearing looks decent.
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I have found stringy RTV in a few pans, made me think an engine was junk, when it came dangling out the drain plug while draining oil. Then drop the pan and not bad. New pump, clean the pan, new gasket and voila' fresh rebuild till I blew it up driving it like it was a high performance machine.
Yeah, I was thinking it's one of the better bearings I've seen after replacing a few rear seals over the years.
If it wasn't for the missing seal, I would assume it was RTV from the intake swap. I don't thing I'm that excessive with the RTV and I don't think anything has been changed on this engine before we owned it. I also wonder if it could have been sludge from some point in the past when the oil wasn't changed for a long time. It did take quite a bit of effort to clean it all off the pickup screen.
I forgot to mention, we were able to do the job with the engine in the car. We had to raise the engine up off the mounts a few inches to get the pan out and then back in. The biggest pain, besides scraping off old gasket, was the side seals in the rear cap.
Does anyone know what the little trap door in the oil pickup is for? It's spring loaded and pushes up into the pickup. My guess is it's there in case the screen gets plugged up.
Yes, it even has a little windage tray.
Exactly.
Oil pan and rear main are still sealed up good. Glad that project turned out so well.
We just had to replace his alternator because it quit alternating. It's actually an external regulated set up. At first I was all concerned about what it would take to switch it over to internal regulated. Then I realized we can get stock replacement AC Delco alternator set up for one-wire. It was an alternator for a 1980 C10, but the physical dimensions and output amperage were exactly like the alternator in his car. So that was an easy swap.
Anyway the main reason I'm posting is because anytime we do something that comes near the AC compressor, Patrick starts talking about getting the AC system working. I know very little about AC systems and I have no idea where we'd even start. The system looks complete. Someone previously pulled the belt for the compressor which makes me suspicion the compressor failed.
Can someone give me an idea of what the process would be to get the factory AC going again? Do we need to replace a bunch of stuff? I'm assuming we'd need to do some things to make it work with R134.
We just had to replace his alternator because it quit alternating. It's actually an external regulated set up. At first I was all concerned about what it would take to switch it over to internal regulated. Then I realized we can get stock replacement AC Delco alternator set up for one-wire. It was an alternator for a 1980 C10, but the physical dimensions and output amperage were exactly like the alternator in his car. So that was an easy swap.
Anyway the main reason I'm posting is because anytime we do something that comes near the AC compressor, Patrick starts talking about getting the AC system working. I know very little about AC systems and I have no idea where we'd even start. The system looks complete. Someone previously pulled the belt for the compressor which makes me suspicion the compressor failed.
Can someone give me an idea of what the process would be to get the factory AC going again? Do we need to replace a bunch of stuff? I'm assuming we'd need to do some things to make it work with R134.
The last few old GM cars I've done, we added conversion fittings and vacuumed the system down. If it holds, I usually add 75% of r12 charge. A splash of pag oil with dye will assist. My last two had seal on nose of compressor leakage. I have all the tools to replace a6 compressor seals if you need.
I’d evacuate the system and see if it’s sealed up. No point in trying to put juice in it if it won’t hold it. That would also pull any last bits of R 12 out too.
Address any leaks and then put the conversation fittings on and attempt to charge.
Address any leaks and then put the conversation fittings on and attempt to charge.
First thing I would do is, put power to the compressor clutch. Then see it the compressor spins over.
