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1984 K10 | My $$$ Eater

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It sounds like you already removed the outer ring, as long as you removed (if it even had one) the small ring at the end of the axle shaft the hub should slide right out. Take a couple of the 6 hub screws and screw them in to the hub opposite of each other (9 and 3 o'clock) by themselves to act as a handle to help pull/wiggle it out.
 
Thanks Martin!

Yes, I'm an idiot! I have very little lighting in my garage, so I couldn't see that I had removed the ring that holds the locking hub together. After lighting up the area, I found the correct snap ring.

I've R&R'd the brakes.

Still have a VERY spongy brake pedal.

I'm thinking that my master cylinder is toast. That's next.

Thanks for the help!

Rob
 
Brian,

Thanks for posting...

I did get the CORRECT snap ring removed, once I was able to see the snap ring holding the locking hub in place.

I just had to "make light" of the situation?!?!?

Thanks for your help!

Rob
 
So I guess you got the front end back together yesterday. After the brakes what's next?
Call me if you need some help. When is your trip?
 
I did get the front end back together... Bled the front brakes (rusty fluid at first) and still had spongy brake pedal. I was pretty sure that I had a sticking caliper before I started... But that doesn't seem to be the case after all. Right now, I'm guessing master cylinder. I'm going to bleed the master cylinder and see if it gets any better at all.

BTW... I Still need some front 3/4 ton backing plates to get the 3/4 ton brakes on. Bill had one for me to buy, so I still need another if Bill will sell me his.

Thanks for checking back on me.

Rob
 
New Master Cylinder is in...

SO, I went ahead and installed the 99 C3500 1 Ton Master Cylinder. I bought it from O'Reily's. Part Number 10-2754. To make this work, I had to buy two Master Cylinder adapter parts so that the front brake line would screw into the front reservoir and the rear brake line in the rear reservoir. The lines will physically fit in the opposite ports, but that's not where they belong. So, I went to Pep Boys... O'Reily's and AutoZone did not have them... everything bolted up easily. I still need to bleed the master cylinder and then the brakes. We had a cold front blow thru that is keeping me indoors. :whistle:

Part Numbers:

1999 C3500 1 Ton Master Cylinder
O'Reily's Part Number 10-2754

1/2-20 to 9/16-18 9/16-18 to 1/2-20
AGS BLF-21C AGS BLF-26C
Edelmann 258307 Edelmann 258306
Weatherhead 7913 Weatherhead 7912
 
treborjm87 said:
SO, I went ahead and installed the 99 C3500 1 Ton Master Cylinder. I bought it from O'Reily's. Part Number 10-2754. To make this work, I had to buy two Master Cylinder adapter parts so that the front brake line would screw into the front reservoir and the rear brake line in the rear reservoir. The lines will physically fit in the opposite ports, but that's not where they belong. So, I went to Pep Boys... O'Reily's and AutoZone did not have them... everything bolted up easily. I still need to bleed the master cylinder and then the brakes. We had a cold front blow thru that is keeping me indoors. :whistle:

Part Numbers:

1999 C3500 1 Ton Master Cylinder
O'Reily's Part Number 10-2754

1/2-20 to 9/16-18 9/16-18 to 1/2-20
AGS BLF-21C AGS BLF-26C
Edelmann 258307 Edelmann 258306
Weatherhead 7913 Weatherhead 7912
Click to expand...


Oreillys should stock edelmann pieces. Surprised they didnt have what you needed. Maybe just wanst in stock. But good info to know that it works.
 
A pic from last week when I swapped out the rotors.

Pretty dirty.

 
Last edited:
Did it all fit ok?
Change them rubber brake lines and get it bleed.
If you need help next weekend I may be able to help.
 
Well... Took the time to bleed the Master Cylinder. Hooked up the brake lines and discovered a small leak. No matter what I try, it will not stop leaking. I think that there may be a small crack in the brake line. I've never been good at flaring brake lines. I may just take the truck over to this small shop nearby and have them set up the brake line with out the brake line adapters.

Still need to bleed the brakes at the calipers/wheel cylinders, but the truck stops way better than it did before.

Rob
 
Call me if you want I could help you tomorrow try to fix the brake line and get them bleed so it's done.
 
It looks like it is actually the fitting that is causing the problem. I think that the flare inside the fitting is too small compared to the brake line's flare.

Maybe mine is defective. Checking.



Teck,

thanks for the offer to help me get them bled. Let me see if I can find another one of these fittings and see where I'll go from here. We go to church first thing tomorrow, so might not work on the truck at all.

Thanks Teck!

Rob
 
After cutting the original double flare off and recreating the double flare, it still leaked. So, I went back to AutoZone and picked up another adapter. Problem fixed. No more leak. Tomorrow, I'll bleed the brakes again. As of right now, i have a pretty decent pedal, but expect it to get better.

Thanks everyone for your inputs.

Rob
 
Today I bled my brakes again with the help of my twelve year old... I'm still getting a lot of air out of my rear brakes. The truck stops great, but still has that spongy feeling. What else could be going on? Can a bleeder screw allow air back into the rear brake lines? The fronts are air free.

Thanks
 
Did you change the rubber lines? Old rubber lines can coz a spongy pedal.
It should not if the pedal is held down when tightening.
I have a bleeder kit that helps get all the air out easier.
 
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