What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1984 K10 | My $$$ Eater

Overview Gallery Discussion
Vibrations in old trucks could be many things. Just get under there and start looking around.

Yes, it is possible to build a rattle, squeak, vibration and even oil leak free trail truck. My K10 is one

A machine shop probably could cut down those ears but so could you with a grinder. I wouldn’t pay someone to do something you can do yourself. Save the dough

These old trucks do not have super great turning radius as it is….. Just the way it is, it is even worse if you put a Detroit locker in the back :haha: I have opinions of Xover steering that may not be popular and I really don’t see how it would help with turning radius as the knuckles are going to hit the stops with xover just as they do now with push/pull. Personally, I wouldn’t mess with xover steering unless you were building a full-on trailer queen hardcore trail rig. Anything less than that just add a steering box brace, raised steering arm (if lifted) and go wheel. People read too many threads and magazines to get the idea they cannot go off-road in an old Chevy without 14 bolts, Dana 60s, 205s, xover steering, LS engines, 5000 LED light bars, 18,000 lbs. winches, etc…. not true. Make it solid and reliable and go then upgrade things as they fail as you are doing now with the rear axle. :waytogo:
 
I was thinking that rad you have may also have come out of a 6.2 Diesel truck. I know that they are wider than the small block rads and come in 4 core.
I have had one that was a 3 core as well.

I don`t remember the 4 core big block rads being wider than the factory small block radiators...just that they are 4 core.

Just a thought I figured id share...I very well could be wrong about the width of the BB radiator?

Nice truck! I had one the same year, color, short box 33s It was my dads. I got it after he passed away.
 
@max 02 thanks for compliment. Sounds like our truck's stories are similar.

It's for sure a 4-Core rad. I'm still not certain what it came out of. It's a close fit, but it's not mounted in the little rubber "feet" that hold it in position. It's not even sitting in bottom of the support correctly. The upper is held in place with wire ties... that's pretty much why I'm trying to track down what this thing is... @Teck provided a link to a rad with dimensions that match my rad. There is a place here in Arlington (Southwest Classics) that sells the upper rad mounts and the rubber feet for the older (as in pre '81) big block. I need to get back over there and do a test fit to see if the feet will at least fit on the tanks. I REALLY want to use the single piece big block radiator shroud with the metal upper rad support. Hesitant to pull the trigger until I'm certain of what I have in the truck. For that matter, I really should just buy a known radiator, but I need to take care of some other non working issues that are keeping my truck from being completely reliable. Right now, it just works. Lol! Won't be taking it on any long hauls until I get that trans/motor mount replaced and the rad shroud settled.

Thanks for the input!

Rob
 
Larry said:
Vibrations in old trucks could be many things. Just get under there and start looking around.

Yes, it is possible to build a rattle, squeak, vibration and even oil leak free trail truck. My K10 is one

A machine shop probably could cut down those ears but so could you with a grinder. I wouldn’t pay someone to do something you can do yourself. Save the dough

These old trucks do not have super great turning radius as it is….. Just the way it is, it is even worse if you put a Detroit locker in the back :haha: I have opinions of Xover steering that may not be popular and I really don’t see how it would help with turning radius as the knuckles are going to hit the stops with xover just as they do now with push/pull. Personally, I wouldn’t mess with xover steering unless you were building a full-on trailer queen hardcore trail rig. Anything less than that just add a steering box brace, raised steering arm (if lifted) and go wheel. People read too many threads and magazines to get the idea they cannot go off-road in an old Chevy without 14 bolts, Dana 60s, 205s, xover steering, LS engines, 5000 LED light bars, 18,000 lbs. winches, etc…. not true. Make it solid and reliable and go then upgrade things as they fail as you are doing now with the rear axle. :waytogo:
Click to expand...


@Larry I can see your point about Cross Over Steering... I had understood that as you flex your suspension, having the cross over steering kept your steering geometry as you flex... Because the stock drag link is so short, as the axle starts to droop, the length of the drag link limited your down ward extension. (Yes, i do have a lifted steering arm). I am no expert at wheeling my truck by any means, and as I mentioned before, I had hoped to increase my turning radius. I'm very open to suggestions of any kind that keeps this from being over kill. It definitely makes sense that I won't gain any turning radius due to the mechanical limits of the stops. I have no plans to crawl over huge boulders, but want to have a very capable trail truck. What would you say the trail difficulty is of some of those areas that you frequent in your rigs? I'm happy to save some money and stay with the short drag link and lifted steering arm.

Thanks for the advice!!!

Rob
 
Well... the source of my vibrations revealed itself in a not so peaceful way.

IMG_0496.JPG

Of my four tires, this one is next to being the newest. (WAS). It looks like the tread just started peaking off of the tire. When this happened I had only just made it to the off ramp near my house.

Three of the four tires have been on the truck for many years, including the time spent in my buddies field. I recently replaced another tire that had fell apart just sitting in my garage. I've been quite lucky that they lasted this long, considering the "dry" cracks that are on the tires. I really don't want to buy another 15x33 tire. My spare is in bad shape too. My 2500HD wheels are 16's...

IMG_0497.JPG

Well, I was planning on moving up to a 14 Bolt soon, but wasn't in any rush... I guess that schedule just got moved up!!!
 
treborjm87 said:
@Larry I can see your point about Cross Over Steering... I had understood that as you flex your suspension, having the cross over steering kept your steering geometry as you flex... Because the stock drag link is so short, as the axle starts to droop, the length of the drag link limited your down ward extension. (Yes, i do have a lifted steering arm). I am no expert at wheeling my truck by any means, and as I mentioned before, I had hoped to increase my turning radius. I'm very open to suggestions of any kind that keeps this from being over kill. It definitely makes sense that I won't gain any turning radius due to the mechanical limits of the stops. I have no plans to crawl over huge boulders, but want to have a very capable trail truck. What would you say the trail difficulty is of some of those areas that you frequent in your rigs? I'm happy to save some money and stay with the short drag link and lifted steering arm.

Thanks for the advice!!!

Rob
Click to expand...

Yep…. We’re all aware of the benefits of xover but again, unless you are building a full-on crawler I don’t see where it is worth the time, effort and other BS that comes along with xover. My old truck has been all over the state and surrounding states and have not yet felt the need for xover nor have I gotten into any predicaments where it wouldn’t steer…..You really need to get these things in a bigger bind with garmungus tires and front lockers before things get that bad. Watch, next trip the gear box will get ripped off the frame or something now on my truck :haha:

Ah, that sucks about the tire. At least you know what the issue was now and nobody got hurt
 
Well, I got a new tire... but I'm not sure that really like this tire. IMG_0501.JPG

Looks like it might be ok as far as mileage and maybe even rain... but not sure how it will do in mud or snow.

I loved my Bridgestone Duelers (691's). But no one can get them here in such short notice.

IMG_0503.JPG

The last time I had a blow out (this time last year) I got a Falken WildPeak AT.

IMG_0502.JPG

This tire would have taken a couple of days to get in as well.

So... this is how it'll be until I either blow another of these old weather cracked tires (date stamped 1996) or I finally track down my 14 Bolt. Had hoped to stretch this out for a little while longer. I just sold my DD. So, my truck has to take on that role now. I just hope that the other two old tires can hold on for a little while longer!!! I really would have expected for them to go before this last one.
 
Last edited:
So, I went ahead and bough the other three Pathfinder AT tires from Discount tire. I'll use the Falken Wildpeak as a spare. I just need to find a wheel that is at least 10" wide to accommodate the 33x12.50 tire.

This weekend, I've been working hard to eliminate rattles, squeaks and vibrations... I took the truck out after removing everything that I could think I of that was lose or possibly rattling, including my tailgate and took it for a test drive. I "had" a true dual exhaust until today. Where the mount to the cherry bomb glass pack meets the head pipe just completely failed. My exhaust fell to the ground while I was driving. It was loud and pretty scary. I pulled over to the side of the road... another driver pulled over to check on me... he says that I had large sparks coming out behind the truck. Put out a pretty decent spectacle. I grabbed a couple of coat hangers and did a temp fix to get me to an exhaust shop.

A while back a buddy of mine gave me this 50 series Magnaflow 2.5 in. dual in, 3 in. out.

IMG_0505.JPG

This truck sounds really good now. And, my butt dyno says I may have picked up some low end torque too. Overall, so happy with it! Not as loud as the cherry bombs, but still a bit loud. Tomorrow, I'll post up a couple of pics showing the crossover behind the transfer case.

When I got home, I removed the old Rancho traction bars. The poly bushings were so far gone that I had metal to metal noise. So, I removed the bars until I can find some of the correct Daystar poly bushings.
 
Ok! Thanks! I was told by a tech at Discount tire that that is what I'd need before they'd install that tire for me.

Thanks for the input!!!

Rob
 
Ordered a cheap steel 8" wide wheel for my spare. Thinking about mounting options...

I'd like to get a bumper that has the swing out mount, (like what @Larry has) but at this point, I'm not liking the pricing I see.

Thinking about building my own... what do I use for the hinge to make that work? Hoping @Larry will chime in here on this one.

Thanks,

Rob
 
Some pics of the "new" exhaust.

IMG_0507.JPG IMG_0508.JPG IMG_0511.JPG
IMG_0512.JPG
IMG_0509.JPG

After seeing it in the daylight, I'm not as happy about the install as I was yesterday. The guy just cut off the bad pipe and crossed over behind the transfer case. It does work, and it really sounds good... so, I'll run it for awhile...

Please pardon all of the old oil leaks. I had planned on spending last Saturday changing the intake manifold gaskets, but the exhaust issue caused a bit of a setback.

Rob
 
Last edited:
IMG_0514.JPG IMG_0515.JPG Just found my very first website I ever made... its WAY outdated, but was all it took to get my start into the IT world!!!

http://www.oocities.org/treborjm/



I took an old '78 El Camino, put a 1987 305HO out of a Camaro, a TBI computer and intake out of a 1987 truck, used a fuel pump, mirrors, and front fascia out of a 1987 V6 El Camino, serpentine belt out of a 1987 truck, rear end out of a Buick Grand National, interior and transmission (200r4) out of a 1987 Monte Carlo SS... that car got GREAT gas mileage!!!

(Kinda noticing a trend for dirty engines with me!?!?! Damn west Texas dirt/wind!!!)

Rob
 
It’s been awhile since I’ve posted anything here, so... here goes. Last December, I decided to make some big changes.

upload_2019-11-29_20-7-3.jpeg

Been busy with work, moving, life, etc.

upload_2019-11-29_20-9-49.jpeg

I swapped the heads for Vortecs, and got tired of reaching over the radiator support, so I pulled it to swap to the 91 style. The intake won’t go on this time around, but I did end up putting the Summit EFI 500 throttle body system. Which of course meant that a new fuel pump and tank went in. Like a noob, I did not get pictures.

Tomorrow, I’ll go out and get some pictures of the new setup.
 
I’m looking for opinions on Ls Swap motor mounts. I’d prefer to not use the adjustable style and keep the engine in the stock location. Anyone used the Tejas Steelworks C10 motor mounts?

For the swap... I have a 6.0/4l80e out of my 2004 2500 HD. I’ll use the summit racing cast iron manifolds and the stock harness (modified to get rid off the un-needed stuff) I’ll probably use LCT billet egr block-offs. Im just going to use my NP208 behind the 4l80e. I have a new input shaft and a GM transfer case adapter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom