I think you might have that backwards. I think the CS alternators need the resistance wire or bulb. I have a 12si alternator.
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I am fairly confident in my information on that. As @imiceman44 said, the CS series has remote sensing, not all factory installations used it, but they were capable of it.
After doing some looking I was wrong. You do need to have #1 terminal connected to a switched 12V source. If you don't have the idiot light, you may need a diode on that wire to keep it from back feeding the ignition and keeping the vehicle running.
Apparently you don't technically have to have the #2 wire connected. On the SI alternators, the remote voltage sensing is optional. Without it, the alternator uses the charging post to sense voltage.
I was reading all this here: https://alternatorparts.com/faq.html
And I have seen plenty of SI alternators setup with one wire on that plug.
At first it puzzled me then I learned more about that
I still think in a scenario like mine with a bunch of loads that aren't part of the factory harness as well as the non-factory charging wire , it's a good idea to run the #2 pin to the battery and/or where the added loads are connected.
Hmm I am not understanding, #2 pin in small plug goes to voltmeter or charge light, no ?
The #1 pin in plug is from ignition switch power.
The #1 pin in plug is from ignition switch power.
No, the #1 pin gets it's switched power thru the light on a factory install. #2 is the optional voltage reference.
There I go transposing my terminals again.
Thanks
Thanks
I do have to double check it myself. I feel like they should be numbered the other way around.
Thanks for the responses guys! I have some reading to do before I can fully understand your comments and suggestions... I'm going to start with the FAQ link that @mrk5 posted earlier.
Last night, I finished installing the new battery cable. The pigtail is just disconnected right now... I wrapped the exposed end in electrical tape.
The truck's starter sounded great when I fired it up, so that's awesome. Unfortunately my voltage reading with the truck running was just below 12V. I had the headlights on when it was running. I also blipped the throttle a few times and tapped the alternator with a hammer.
So next steps for me are to do some reading on that FAQ page and then revisit your guys' responses / comments.
I also picked up some things from Harbor Freight in case I need to do any work on the electrical stuff. I call this the, "I have no idea what I'm doing and hope this is a good start" package:
Last night, I finished installing the new battery cable. The pigtail is just disconnected right now... I wrapped the exposed end in electrical tape.
The truck's starter sounded great when I fired it up, so that's awesome. Unfortunately my voltage reading with the truck running was just below 12V. I had the headlights on when it was running. I also blipped the throttle a few times and tapped the alternator with a hammer.
So next steps for me are to do some reading on that FAQ page and then revisit your guys' responses / comments.
I also picked up some things from Harbor Freight in case I need to do any work on the electrical stuff. I call this the, "I have no idea what I'm doing and hope this is a good start" package:
good start, what diameter is solder ? lead free ? do your self a favor and get some Klein crimpers, Lowes has them for reasonable $.
I have these 2
www.kleintools.com
www.kleintools.com
The blue handle are adequate.
You will see the difference, if you get any time on the HF crimping tool.
going to need some 10ga connectors (yellow)
I still think you have a blown fuse link, but I'm sure you'll figure it out.
I have these 2
Long Nose Multi Tool Wire Stripper, Wire Cutters, Crimping Tool
The Klein Tools Wire Stripper Long Nose Multi Tool handles a wide range of functions, from wire and bolt cutting to stripping and crimping. The cutting and stripping holes are positioned in front of the pivot to easily fit into tight spaces. Plastic-covered cushioned handles make this tool...
Forged Steel Wire Crimper, Cutter, Stripper
The Forged Crimper with Wire Stripper/Cutter combines the most commonly used wire stripping sizes with a dedicated crimper and two cutters. Strips 10-18 AWG stranded wire and crimps 10-22 AWG insulated and non-insulated terminals and connectors. The forged design delivers a professional level...
The blue handle are adequate.
You will see the difference, if you get any time on the HF crimping tool.
going to need some 10ga connectors (yellow)
I still think you have a blown fuse link, but I'm sure you'll figure it out.
I’ve got ratcheting crimpers for insulated and non insulated terminals that are awesome.
I have those too, but most people won't spend the money for them. A set of 3 from Packard Electric. The 2 I linked I keep in my travel kit.
There are things in life to spend money on. Ratcheting crimpers are one of those things.