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1988 Suburban build

That axle look like its pulled more to the left? Most likely is :/
One set of springs bolted up, but the hole will not line up now.
AxleA.jpg


Can't see it, but the center pin is slightly more forward
AxleB.jpg


Steering knuckle from hell....
I tried to jack the frame up to make room for the leafs, and this damn steering knuckle started to lift the axle from the stand....

Question: Should I remove this knuckle?

Steeringknuckle.jpg



Todays events...... Got the old springs out, thank you whoever suggested PB blaster! Got the passenger side springs on, bolted up, center pin doesn't line up. Moved to the drivers side, and **** went down hill, went to lift the frame again, and this god damn steering knuckle is lifting the axle, so I go to take the cotter pin out, and that som bitch breaks off inside the nut.

I gave up for tonight, started at 7:30 this morning, worked through lunch and it is now 5 PM

At this rate, she should be fully lifted by Monday or Tuesday.... :'(
 
Just take off the drag link. I have a lifted steering arm for a 10 Bolt that I can send you if I can get it off my old axle. I think its a Procomp arm. let me know
 
Also, that sway bar that bolts to the spring caps. TAKE IT OFF AND NEVER LOOK BACK! It does nothing for you with the vehicle lifted. I left mine on and fought like hell to get my axles bolted back in but finally got it. Then i did a lot of reading and found that everyone suggested taking it off. When I did my axle swap, I took it out and I can't tell a bit of difference. TAKE IT OUT!
 
don't bother with removing the knuckle. that's a huge job. like said above, just disconnect the drag link. you're going to have to replace the steering arm anyway. the link you gave us for the lift you picked up shows an arm included, i think.

that arm is going to be a big pain in the ass. to remove it, pull off the 3 nuts that are on the studs on top of the arm. then, you'd likely want to shoot some PB blaster or similar on that arm around the studs. these studs have cone-shaped washers around them that sit down into the arm. if you can envision a very thick washer that gets thinner toward the bottom, creating a type of cone.

these typically are very difficult to remove because rust/debris. then get a BIG hammer and hit the end of the steering arm VERY hard. after repeated (often LOTS of hits, or maybe more) of hits those cone washers will pop up a little bit. there is a tool made to help remove those washers from the studs after they pop up above the surface of the steering arm - tho you can do it without this tool, it makes it a bit easier.

remove these washers, pull the arm off, install new arm. if you don't replace the arm, you won't be able to steer. you may want to review the steps i posed in a previous post on this thread. it's not THE way to do the lift install, but A way to do it, and should help you make some decisions that will save you time.

where are you supporting the load of the body/frame? w/ respect to the center pin, i bet once you get the axle free of all it's attachments you'll be able to line everything up fine. don't forget you may need longer brake lines now.
 
joshthemule said:
Also, that sway bar that bolts to the spring caps. TAKE IT OFF AND NEVER LOOK BACK! It does nothing for you with the vehicle lifted. I left mine on and fought like hell to get my axles bolted back in but finally got it. Then i did a lot of reading and found that everyone suggested taking it off. When I did my axle swap, I took it out and I can't tell a bit of difference. TAKE IT OUT!
Click to expand...
oh yeah, forgot to mention this. you'll be much happier with out the sway bar.
 
colbystephens said:
where are you supporting the load of the body/frame?
Click to expand...


Well, funny you should mention that....

There are 2 jack stands, at max height and 2 12 ton jacks on 5 1/4 inch chunk's of wood.


The stands are just there incase either jack fails, I wont get crushed.

Like I said... try to finish the front tomorrow.... start the rear at the end of the day, then monday we should be done completely, at which point I am getting hammered drunk to take pain out of my back, and knees.
 
You think your back hurts now, wait till you get that steering arm off. I **** you not, I beat on the numbers of that steering arm for the better part of a day before the cone washers started poking up. Just beat and beat and beat and eventually they will start to pop up. Then you can start spinning them out with a flat head or something. Let me know of you want my lifted steering arm. I also have a very new drag link cause mine was all rusted and I couldn't adjust it. I've got a Dana 60 now with crossover steering so I don't use any of this any more. In fact, the old 10 bolts axles are in the back of my pickup waiting to go to the scrap yard.
 
I ****ing give up. I have had enough. I cannot get the mother ****ing steering arm off, I have tried EVERYTHING, from chisels, to hammers to jacking up the ****ing arm, NOTHING.

Its been 3 ****ing days and Im back at zero, had to unbolt the springs just to lower the frame back down.

I ****ing quit, worst thing is I cannot afford to pay someone else to install this ****.

**** me.
 
MuddinSuburban said:
I ****ing give up. I have had enough. I cannot get the mother ****ing steering arm off, I have tried EVERYTHING, from chisels, to hammers to jacking up the ****ing arm, NOTHING.

Its been 3 ****ing days and Im back at zero, had to unbolt the springs just to lower the frame back down.

I ****ing quit, worst thing is I cannot afford to pay someone else to install this ****.

**** me.
Click to expand...

damn dude, just chill....have u tried using a torch to heat it up? just soak the shi!t out of it with PB blast and the next day or later on use a torch to heat it up.(near the studs) that will help cracking off the rust and crap. do u no anyone whos done this before? also it maybe sound stupid but a heavier sledge helps a TON. if u can find a 8lb or 10lb over a 5lb then ull be WAY better off.
 
shaun89 said:
damn dude, just chill....have u tried using a torch to heat it up? just soak the shi!t out of it with PB blast and the next day or later on use a torch to heat it up.(near the studs) that will help cracking off the rust and crap. do u no anyone whos done this before? also it maybe sound stupid but a heavier sledge helps a TON. if u can find a 8lb or 10lb over a 5lb then ull be WAY better off.
Click to expand...
great points on the heat and the BIG hammer. I used the back side of an axe on mine.
 
NOOB :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: Don't freak out, it's just nuts and bolts. I've lifted several trucks and it's always the same problems. Once you've got it whipped, you'll know exactly what it takes next time you do one. The steering arm removal is one of the toughest parts of lifting these trucks, but I've never had one I couldn't eventually get off. I might have walked away once or twice, but eventually they came off. PB Blaster and a BFH should be all you need......and some patience. :D
 
Just beat DOWN on the steering arm where it was bolted to the drag link, cause trying to pound up won't do any good. You have to vibrate the tapered collars loose!!! You will learn to hate these tapered collars.
Tarey

DSCN0792.JPG

DSCN0793.JPG
 
Yeah dude, I have been right there ready to burn my Suburban to the f*&$ing ground. Invest $20 in the biggest single hand sledge you can get and beat the hell out of it. Someone told me to beat on the part number. IT WILL WORK!!! Once you see those cone washers starting to rise, you'll find new strength and pretty soon, that thing will be in your hands. BTW, are you going to buy mine or do you have one?
 
i dont think anyone has said this, but 99% on the time the threads off the studs r stamped into the cones from being in there so tight so once u see it loose, get a flat head and little hammer and u can tap the cone off around like a nut.
 
Hit it down, and side to side. Last one I did took 15 minutes using that method...

Rene
 
joshthemule said:
Yeah dude, I have been right there ready to burn my Suburban to the f*&$ing ground. Invest $20 in the biggest single hand sledge you can get and beat the hell out of it. Someone told me to beat on the part number. IT WILL WORK!!! Once you see those cone washers starting to rise, you'll find new strength and pretty soon, that thing will be in your hands. BTW, are you going to buy mine or do you have one?
Click to expand...
mind pimping your parts by PM?
 
It cant be said enough... Biggest hammer possible and plenty of heat... Oh, and a really big hammer!
 
no progress today. Got super drunk last night, ended up with alcohol poisoning, taken it easy today.


edit: forgot to mention for anyone curious, i went in with a BAC of .173

I weigh around 250ish, and i was hurtin.
 
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