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1990 K5 Blazer Project "Side-Chick"

Aptly named because this project is taking all the time and money that should be spent with my family, LOL! The plan for this truck is going to be an adequate trail rig thats still nice enough, and comfortable enough for my family to enjoy with me.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Alright. I've been pouring through the forum and other suspension websites trying to find the ideal shock location for the front axle. And walked away more confused than when I started. So I just decided to go for it. I'd love some input from more experienced members as I've never done this before.

This is an 11" travel shock. So I burned it in where I would get about 4" uptravel, and 7" down travel. Right now its just tacked in while I figure out how im going to cycle the suspension.

Input please...

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The more vertical you can run a shock in relation to axle travel the better it works. Having it leaned over in any direction cause it to lose how well it works due to the shaft not traveling straight in and out.
 
Yeah. I read that. But vertical isn't really possible due to interference with the steering shaft and bump stop. I could move a few inches forward if I deleted the factory shock mount "bubble" but I don't trust my welding skills enough yet to patch the frame.

Here is as close to full droop as I feel comfortable getting on my cheap ass floor jack. Im a little concerned about the angle of the lower bracket. Should I be?

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That looks much better more vertical in my opinion. Just a thought, are you mounting the shock to the top of the axle tube to protect it from rocks? Otherwise I think mounted behind the tube in the factory location would get the shock even more vertical.
 
Yes. Just trying to keep everything tucked up as high as I can.

If I put the shock mount behind the axle tube, then I would have to mount the eye parallel to the axle tube. In high angle situations, I thought that might be problematic. But maybe I'm overthinking....
 
Thanks man. I want to drive this thing so bad I can taste it. Still a few big hurdles to cross, and a bunch of little details.

Rebuild front diff
Drivelines
Rear brake lines and shocks
Breather tubes
Air line to the rear diff
Emergency brake cable

Etc...etc...
 
Nice build so far! So I never admitted it on here before, but I also bought a set of “1 Ton” axles about 12 years ago. Paid 500 for a 14BFF and an 8 lug 10B front. I found out real quick that I had just wasted my money! Eventually I landed a real set of 1 Tons for $900.
 
Thanks man. There has been a big learning curve for sure.

I figure if I put all my dumb mistakes out there then maybe someone else won't make the same mistakes.
 
Getting the rear axle set in place, and 8nboarding kit installed. For a double cardin setup, the pinion should be pointed right at the transfer case output, right?

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Chevy350Ben said:
Getting the rear axle set in place, and 8nboarding kit installed. For a double cardin setup, the pinion should be pointed right at the transfer case output, right?

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You will want the pinion to be 1-2 degrees below the driveshaft tube slope after installed. That looks like it may be close, I didn't catch if your rear pads are welded on or not yet? Are you going to do an SYE or Slip style CV? I will read back through also in case I missed. If it's welded already or factory spring perch location, you may need some shims to angle it down below the tube slope.
 
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