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1997 GMC Z71 Front Axle

R

roscoe

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Dyersburg, TN
"Dad I didn't do anything!!" The front transfer case was replaced as the original was split open. Engaging four wheel drive results in a flashing 4HI or 4 LOW indicator light. I jacked the truck up completely off the ground and ran it in four wheel drive. The front wheels were motionless despite the front driveshaft turning. I can get a used front axle for $200.00 at a local recycler. I just have to determine geat ratio. I will disassemble the original before I purchase a replacement to see if it would be cheaper to repair. It looks pretty straight forward. Can I just unbolt the axle from the frame, disconnect a couple plugs, remove the front driveshaft and CV joints?? Any advice?? Thanks!!
 
if the fornt axle is not turning i would look into the actator first, they will cause that and are a lot easier and cheaper to replace
 
at $200 for a JY diff, i'm not real sure you can say its cheaper, but definitely easier. rather than another failure prone actuator (although they have come up with a better design that bolts right in) i would look into a Posi-Lock. eliminate all the electronic and vacuum crap, and go with a straight cable setup.

pos-600_w.jpg

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=POS%2D600&N=700+400118+4294908216+4294924744+4294908015+115&autoview=sku
 
The actuator in the transfer case is working fine. I wasn't aware of any actuator in the front differential. The Haynes manual I have doesn't illustrate the internals to the differential. Anyone know of a website that may have the schematic I need?
 
the actuator is on the outside of the front pumpkin, on the top side i believe, should be a black shield around it..
 
Also it's the only thing on the front differential with wires going to it.
 
here's a front diff from a 93 K1500, you can see the actuator running parallel with the passenger side axle tube. this angle is like you would be looking at it from the base of the radiator support as it sits in the truck.

there is a switch on the transfer case that tells the front diff that it is engaged, leave the switch unplugged and it should act just like a normal solid axle transfer case, and engage when you put the shifter in 4hi. might check your actuator, as well as the switch on the TC, i believe it is on top of the TC.

IMAG0462.JPG
 
that little round box with the wires coming out of it. The old thermal actuators are notorious for going out, i would go with the posi lock, its a pretty easy swap. Im pretty sure you dont even have to take the differential apart or pull the axle. Ive heard of those thermal acutators going out(when in engaged into 4wd) if you get in some really cold water even.
 
I guess I do not have clearance to view your picture. My front axle has two sets of wires going to it. I recognize what you are referring to. It is on the passenger side of the housing. Can I pull it without draining the axle?
 
im not sure about that, try to find posi locks website. I remember reading an article on there how to remove the factory actuator and replace it with the posi lock.
 
There is also a known problem with the switch on the dash. I had mine replaced under warranty as it was doing the same type of thing.
 
the "switch in the dash" didnt come out until later in the run, most of the earlier versions were still floor shifted.
 
I pulled the actuator and applied 12vdc to it for about 20 minutes. It did warm up as it is supposed to but did not extend. I had a 40% off coupon for NAPA so I bought a new actuator, installed it and it works fine. I guess after the one year warranty runs out and the thing fails again, I'll replace it with a posi-lock provided I still own the truck. Thanks for all the help!!!
 
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