We bought a 2014 Silverado High Country about 8 months ago. I failed to check the frame for rust and subsequently have to repair a major portion of the rear frame structure. You can see that work on my build page:
ck5.com
During that repair I decided to fix a significant leak where the transfer case and tranny meet. Turned out I needed to replace the input seal and the input shaft retaining clip. The clip appeared to self destruct, I found several pieces of it inside the tranny/TC adapter.
The disassembly steps are detailed below.
I will refer various parts from these three parts diagrams as a reference.
To start, the below short video is a walk around of the MP3023 from the truck.
View attachment MVI_0053.MP4
Once I got the TC installed on a sturdy stand I started by removing the ACTUATOR SHAFT POSITION SENSOR (#22 from Image 3). The bolts for this sensor were a T25 Start Drive.
The sensor was badly corroded into the bore on the case. I had to totally destroy the sensor to get it out.
I had to clean the bore so the new sensor would fit properly.
The next step was to remove the TWO/FOUR WHEEL DRIVE ACTUATOR (#25 from Image 3) aka, the transfer case motor. The bolts for the motor are a T40 Star Drive. This came off without any issues.
The last item from the case exterior is the VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (#13 from Image 3). This sensor can be removed with a 19mm deep socket. The sensor came off without any issues. There is a very thin O-Ring that I will have to replace during re-assembly.
The case is ready to be split after the exterior items were removed. The case was held together by T40 Star Bolts. There is no realistic method of separating the case halves with mallets or pry tools. I saw a method online that work magically. The case has three areas where a nut and bolt can be wedged. With some modifications I was able to use the nut and bolt as a "ram" to split the halves. I used only one nut and bolt.
Once the case started to split I used a screwdriver blade to finish the job. I only pried where the bolts were located. I pried on the outside edges of the bolt holes to prevent any case damage.
At this point the case was ready to come apart.
I found out that some additional work was required. The rear output shaft is locked into place by a retaining clip that holds it inside the rear case half. Also, the front input shaft is locked into place by a retaining ring, the same one I fixed/replaced earlier. The input shaft retaining ring can be removed without separating the case. I would recommend removing the input shaft retaining ring FIRST. Once that is done you can "wiggle" the rear case half which will result in the REAR OUTPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY and the CONTROL ACTUATOR SHAFT coming out. The control actuator shaft is the shaft between the two output shafts - see image below. The rear output shaft assembly will still be attached to the rear case half (See Image below showing the control actuator shaft and rear output shaft still inside the rear case half). The control actuator shaft is loosely attached to the rear output shaft. Be careful that it does not drop off. The front output shaft will stay inside the case. Removing it is another issues.
Output Shaft Assembly still inside the rear case half - This a good reference for how everything goes
CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER ASSEMBLY (#6 from Image 2) and how it is assembled inside the case.
Front half of the transfer case. The front output shaft is still in side the case. Removing this assembly is another total process and will be covered below.
Once apart...
The REAR OUTPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY (#19 on image 1) is "locked" to the case by a large retaining ring. The ring has to be pulled apart to release the REAR OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING (#28 on image 1). The ring has to be pulled apart while AT THE SAME TIME you either push the output shaft assembly out OR pull on the rear case half to get the output shaft assembly out. To do this the two rubber plugs on top of the case need to be removed. Inside the two holes you will see the REAR OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING RETAINING RING (#12 from Image 3). The "ears" from the ring need to be PULLED APART.
You need to use two screwdrivers or very large snap ring pliers. I have the correct pliers but realized two LARGE regular screwdrivers were the best tool. You'll need to put the screwdrivers into the two holes and push the ears away from each other. You will use the screwdrivers kinda like chopsticks but in reverse. Once you reach this step you will see what I mean. You will need TWO people for this operation. Once person needs to hold the screwdrivers in position while the second person hammers out the rear output shaft or pulls the case off the shaft. You'll need to use a rubber mallet or a wood block and regular hammer.
This step sucks and you will probably have to reset the screwdrivers many many times. This step took me about 45 minutes.
Once successful, you can start disassembling the rear output shaft. This shaft has 75% of the functioning parts.
First step is removing the REAR OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING (#28 from Image 1) retaining ring (#29 from Image 1). Basic snap ring pliers will work here. I found this step was not the easiest. The snap ring was in the grove very tight. I took about 20 attempts before I was able to remove the ring. Be patient and it will come out.
NOTE: This snap ring is often described as the most common point of failure in the MP3023 transfer case. This snap ring breaks apart (fractures into pieces). Seems the MagnaPower did not use hardened steel rings. Apparently there are companies that will use a lathe to enlarge the gap on the shaft for the snap ring that will allow for a thicker ring to be used. I do not know of any shops that do this...I have just read they are out there.
Snap Ring and Bearing in place
Snap Ring removed
Snap Ring and Bearing off shaft - snap ring groove can be seen
The next item is the tone ring/wheel. The parts diagram call this the REAR OUTPUT SHAFT SPEED RELUCTOR WHEEL (#26 from Image 1). This is installed with another retaining ring. This retaining ring is the same part # as the previous ring. This ring comes off much easier and if you are careful it will not be deformed so you can reuse it.
Tone Ring and Snap Ring in place
Tone Ring and Snap Ring off shaft - snap ring groove can be seen
The next item is the oil pump. The parts diagram identifies this part as the OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY (#25 from Image 1). I found my oil pump wobbled and moved freely. I do not know what kind of tolerances or movement is normal so I ordered a new one. I figured it could not hurt plus I did not know what damage was inflicted with all the metal flakes and other pieces I found in the oil and inside the case. This part simply slips off. No retaining ring here.
Oil Pump off rear output shaft - The pump spins freely. The tang on the oil pump hooks onto a part of the rear case half so be aware of that when re-assembling the TC.
Oil Pump off rear output shaft - TOP VIEW
NOTE: There is a groove a short space behind the splines. This DID NOT have a retaining ring and the parts diagram does not show one.
The next part is identified as the FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET (#21 from Image 1), This sprocket is what the drive chain is connected to. This part is secured to the shaft by a spacer and a retaining ring. These parts are identified as the FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET SPACER - REAR (#23 from Image 1) and the FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET RETAINING RING (#24 from Image 1).
Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket, Spacer and Snap Ring in place
VERY VERY IMPORTANT! The Drive Sprocket Snap Ring (Retaining Ring) goes into the grove closest to the sprocket spacer. You will see TWO groves and the snap ring will fit in both. See the image below that shows the snap ring installed in the correct groove and it shows the WRONG groove.
Spacer and Snap Ring Removed
Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket removed from shaft. There is a double needle bearing inside the sprocket. The bearing is identified as the Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket Bearing Assembly (#22 from Image 1).
The Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket is connected to the next part by a retaining ring. When you pull off the Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH HOUSING (#18 from Image 2).
Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket and the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH HOUSING still connected
Inside the clutch housing you will see a medium sized snap ring. This ring is easy to remove and won't give up a fight.
Snap ring holding the assembly together
Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket and the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH HOUSING separated.
Opposite end of the Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket for reference.
Once apart you will see the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH HUB (#13 from Image 2).
This part has three small pieces above it that need to be removed. These include FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET SPACER - FRONT (#16 from Image 2), TWO /FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH RETAINING RING (#15 from Image 2), and the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH SHIM (#14 from Image 2).
The drive sprocket spacer slides off first. NOTE: This spacer has teeth in the inner diameter. Second remove the retaining ring, this was not difficult to take off. Last the clutch shim slides off. DO NOT lose this part....
Drive sprocket spacer slides off
Retaining Ring holds the entire clutch pack together. There is some tension on this ring from the four springs located under the clutch pack.
The clutch spacer slides off. Chevy sells these shims in various thickness. I found, however, none are readily available for order and Chevy does not know when they may be available. HOPING the new clutches are in spec and I won't need a different shim.
Drive sprocket spacer, retaining ring and clutch shim off the shaft.
You can pull off the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH HUB to expose the clutch discs.
Four Wheel Clutch Hub with the clutch pack still on the shaft.
The clutch pack can be pulled of. There are 8 friction discs and 7 steel discs.
friction discs and 7 steel discs.
The friction discs seem to have worn evenly. The steels have some scoring but wear seems even.
Showing the thickness of a friction disc. I do not know the original thickness but one the new ones come in I will update with a comparison. However, the friction material seems thin.
Below the clutch pack is a set of steel springs (4). These are simply cupped washers. Chevy identified these parts as FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE SPRING (#10 from Image 2)
Clutch Springs in place.
Clutch Springs off the shaft in their originial assembled position.
The last part of the clutch is the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE (#9 from Image 2). This will simply slide off the shaft without any retaining rings.
Four Wheel Drive Clutch Pressure Plate. This slides off. To be safe I ordred a new pressure plate. I am fairly certain there are no issues with this one but I ordered a new one to be safe.
Below the pressure plate are two levers. These are identified as the CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER ASSEMBLY (#6 from Image 2) and TRANSFER CASE CONTROL LEVER (#3 on Image 2). There are small parts associated with these levers.
Between the Clutch Pressure Plate and the CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER ASSEMBLY (NOTE: It has a small ball bearing on the end) is a Washer and a Thrust Bearing. Chevy identifies the washer as the CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER WASHER (#8 from Image 2).
NOTE: My transfer case DID NOT HAVE THE WASHER. Whevever this case was last disassembled/assembled they forgot to install this part. I have ordered a new one.
Chevy identifies the bearing as CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER THRUST BEARING ASSEMBLY (#7 from Image 2)
The thrust bearing simply pulls off NOTE: There is an up and down with the bearing. Make a note of which direction touches the control arm and which touches the washer (which is not present as noted earlier). You can full see the barrels in the bearing for the side that FACES DOWN towards the lever. Notice the bearing at the end of the lever.
The CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER ASSEMBLY simply pulls off.
The bottom of the CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER has three notches for the balls that install between the two levers. The balls just lift out of their bores.
The bottom lever is sitting in place and simply lifts off. Place the balls in a baggie for keeping. It was recommended to me to replace the balls, they are cheap so I got new ones.
Once the bottom lever is removed you will see a tall caged bearing over the shaft. This is identified as CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER BEARING ASSEMBLY (#4 from Image 2). This bearing simply pulls off.
CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER BEARING ASSEMBLY sliding off
The last piece is the second thrust bearing identified as CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER THRUST BEARING ASSEMBLY (#2 from Image 2).
The thrust bearing has an up and an down. I the above and below images you can see the difference. The side observed in the above image goes up towards the control lever. The part # for the thrust bearings are the same.
This side of the thrust bearing faces towards the base of the shaft.
With that the rear output shaft is totally disassembled.
The next part is the input shaft disassembly
INPUT SHAFT DISASSEMBLY
The TRANSFER CASE INPUT SHAFT (#4 from Image 1) is held into the case by the INPUT SHAFT BEARING OUTER RETAINING RING (#4 from Image 3). IF you removed that clip when taking the two case halves apart then you will probably have the input shaft assembly sitting on your bench. The input shaft assembly looks like this:
The input shaft is held in to the planetary gears by a HIGH/LOW PLANETARY CARRIER RETAINING RING (#1 from Image 1). That ring comes off easy.
Once the ring is removed you can pull the input shaft out of the planetary gear set. The retaining ring also holds two other parts against the input shaft. These parts are identified as the HIGH/LOW LOCKING PLATE (#2 from Image 1) and the PLANETARY CARRIER SUN GEAR THRUST WASHER (#3 from Image 1).
Once those parts are out of the planetary gears, you should see another thrust washer that goes between the bottom of the input gear and the planetary gears. However, MINE WAS MISSING. I have found pieces of a thrust washer in the bottom of the case. IF this part was in the case it would be identified as the PLANETARY CARRIER SUN GEAR THRUST WASHER (#7 from Image 1). It is basically the same thrust washer from the images above. I believe mine self destructed and was one of the primary causes of the damage found in this transfer case. This image below shows the metal on metal damage inside the planetary gears:
The planetary gears are identified by GM as HIGH/LOW PLANETARY CARRIER ASSEMBLY (#8 from Image 1).
The opposite end of the planetary gears house the HIGH/LOW CLUTCH (#9 from Image 1). This gear has a slotted end that mates with the shift fork. This part is identified as the HIGH/LOW SHIFT FORK (#11 from Image 1).
Once that gear is off the rear output shaft, the input shaft assembly is totally disassembled.
2014 Silverado High Country RUST Nightmare
This thread is for the general discussion of the Item 2014 Silverado High Country RUST Nightmare. Please add to the discussion here.
ck5.com
During that repair I decided to fix a significant leak where the transfer case and tranny meet. Turned out I needed to replace the input seal and the input shaft retaining clip. The clip appeared to self destruct, I found several pieces of it inside the tranny/TC adapter.
The disassembly steps are detailed below.
I will refer various parts from these three parts diagrams as a reference.
To start, the below short video is a walk around of the MP3023 from the truck.
View attachment MVI_0053.MP4
Once I got the TC installed on a sturdy stand I started by removing the ACTUATOR SHAFT POSITION SENSOR (#22 from Image 3). The bolts for this sensor were a T25 Start Drive.
The sensor was badly corroded into the bore on the case. I had to totally destroy the sensor to get it out.
I had to clean the bore so the new sensor would fit properly.
The next step was to remove the TWO/FOUR WHEEL DRIVE ACTUATOR (#25 from Image 3) aka, the transfer case motor. The bolts for the motor are a T40 Star Drive. This came off without any issues.
The last item from the case exterior is the VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (#13 from Image 3). This sensor can be removed with a 19mm deep socket. The sensor came off without any issues. There is a very thin O-Ring that I will have to replace during re-assembly.
The case is ready to be split after the exterior items were removed. The case was held together by T40 Star Bolts. There is no realistic method of separating the case halves with mallets or pry tools. I saw a method online that work magically. The case has three areas where a nut and bolt can be wedged. With some modifications I was able to use the nut and bolt as a "ram" to split the halves. I used only one nut and bolt.
Once the case started to split I used a screwdriver blade to finish the job. I only pried where the bolts were located. I pried on the outside edges of the bolt holes to prevent any case damage.
At this point the case was ready to come apart.
I found out that some additional work was required. The rear output shaft is locked into place by a retaining clip that holds it inside the rear case half. Also, the front input shaft is locked into place by a retaining ring, the same one I fixed/replaced earlier. The input shaft retaining ring can be removed without separating the case. I would recommend removing the input shaft retaining ring FIRST. Once that is done you can "wiggle" the rear case half which will result in the REAR OUTPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY and the CONTROL ACTUATOR SHAFT coming out. The control actuator shaft is the shaft between the two output shafts - see image below. The rear output shaft assembly will still be attached to the rear case half (See Image below showing the control actuator shaft and rear output shaft still inside the rear case half). The control actuator shaft is loosely attached to the rear output shaft. Be careful that it does not drop off. The front output shaft will stay inside the case. Removing it is another issues.
Output Shaft Assembly still inside the rear case half - This a good reference for how everything goes
CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER ASSEMBLY (#6 from Image 2) and how it is assembled inside the case.
Front half of the transfer case. The front output shaft is still in side the case. Removing this assembly is another total process and will be covered below.
Once apart...
The REAR OUTPUT SHAFT ASSEMBLY (#19 on image 1) is "locked" to the case by a large retaining ring. The ring has to be pulled apart to release the REAR OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING (#28 on image 1). The ring has to be pulled apart while AT THE SAME TIME you either push the output shaft assembly out OR pull on the rear case half to get the output shaft assembly out. To do this the two rubber plugs on top of the case need to be removed. Inside the two holes you will see the REAR OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING RETAINING RING (#12 from Image 3). The "ears" from the ring need to be PULLED APART.
You need to use two screwdrivers or very large snap ring pliers. I have the correct pliers but realized two LARGE regular screwdrivers were the best tool. You'll need to put the screwdrivers into the two holes and push the ears away from each other. You will use the screwdrivers kinda like chopsticks but in reverse. Once you reach this step you will see what I mean. You will need TWO people for this operation. Once person needs to hold the screwdrivers in position while the second person hammers out the rear output shaft or pulls the case off the shaft. You'll need to use a rubber mallet or a wood block and regular hammer.
This step sucks and you will probably have to reset the screwdrivers many many times. This step took me about 45 minutes.
Once successful, you can start disassembling the rear output shaft. This shaft has 75% of the functioning parts.
First step is removing the REAR OUTPUT SHAFT REAR BEARING (#28 from Image 1) retaining ring (#29 from Image 1). Basic snap ring pliers will work here. I found this step was not the easiest. The snap ring was in the grove very tight. I took about 20 attempts before I was able to remove the ring. Be patient and it will come out.
NOTE: This snap ring is often described as the most common point of failure in the MP3023 transfer case. This snap ring breaks apart (fractures into pieces). Seems the MagnaPower did not use hardened steel rings. Apparently there are companies that will use a lathe to enlarge the gap on the shaft for the snap ring that will allow for a thicker ring to be used. I do not know of any shops that do this...I have just read they are out there.
Snap Ring and Bearing in place
Snap Ring removed
Snap Ring and Bearing off shaft - snap ring groove can be seen
The next item is the tone ring/wheel. The parts diagram call this the REAR OUTPUT SHAFT SPEED RELUCTOR WHEEL (#26 from Image 1). This is installed with another retaining ring. This retaining ring is the same part # as the previous ring. This ring comes off much easier and if you are careful it will not be deformed so you can reuse it.
Tone Ring and Snap Ring in place
Tone Ring and Snap Ring off shaft - snap ring groove can be seen
The next item is the oil pump. The parts diagram identifies this part as the OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY (#25 from Image 1). I found my oil pump wobbled and moved freely. I do not know what kind of tolerances or movement is normal so I ordered a new one. I figured it could not hurt plus I did not know what damage was inflicted with all the metal flakes and other pieces I found in the oil and inside the case. This part simply slips off. No retaining ring here.
Oil Pump off rear output shaft - The pump spins freely. The tang on the oil pump hooks onto a part of the rear case half so be aware of that when re-assembling the TC.
Oil Pump off rear output shaft - TOP VIEW
NOTE: There is a groove a short space behind the splines. This DID NOT have a retaining ring and the parts diagram does not show one.
The next part is identified as the FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET (#21 from Image 1), This sprocket is what the drive chain is connected to. This part is secured to the shaft by a spacer and a retaining ring. These parts are identified as the FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET SPACER - REAR (#23 from Image 1) and the FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET RETAINING RING (#24 from Image 1).
Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket, Spacer and Snap Ring in place
VERY VERY IMPORTANT! The Drive Sprocket Snap Ring (Retaining Ring) goes into the grove closest to the sprocket spacer. You will see TWO groves and the snap ring will fit in both. See the image below that shows the snap ring installed in the correct groove and it shows the WRONG groove.
Spacer and Snap Ring Removed
Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket removed from shaft. There is a double needle bearing inside the sprocket. The bearing is identified as the Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket Bearing Assembly (#22 from Image 1).
The Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket is connected to the next part by a retaining ring. When you pull off the Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH HOUSING (#18 from Image 2).
Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket and the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH HOUSING still connected
Inside the clutch housing you will see a medium sized snap ring. This ring is easy to remove and won't give up a fight.
Snap ring holding the assembly together
Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket and the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH HOUSING separated.
Opposite end of the Front Output Shaft Drive Sprocket for reference.
Once apart you will see the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH HUB (#13 from Image 2).
This part has three small pieces above it that need to be removed. These include FRONT OUTPUT SHAFT DRIVE SPROCKET SPACER - FRONT (#16 from Image 2), TWO /FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH RETAINING RING (#15 from Image 2), and the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH SHIM (#14 from Image 2).
The drive sprocket spacer slides off first. NOTE: This spacer has teeth in the inner diameter. Second remove the retaining ring, this was not difficult to take off. Last the clutch shim slides off. DO NOT lose this part....
Drive sprocket spacer slides off
Retaining Ring holds the entire clutch pack together. There is some tension on this ring from the four springs located under the clutch pack.
The clutch spacer slides off. Chevy sells these shims in various thickness. I found, however, none are readily available for order and Chevy does not know when they may be available. HOPING the new clutches are in spec and I won't need a different shim.
Drive sprocket spacer, retaining ring and clutch shim off the shaft.
You can pull off the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH HUB to expose the clutch discs.
Four Wheel Clutch Hub with the clutch pack still on the shaft.
The clutch pack can be pulled of. There are 8 friction discs and 7 steel discs.
friction discs and 7 steel discs.
The friction discs seem to have worn evenly. The steels have some scoring but wear seems even.
Showing the thickness of a friction disc. I do not know the original thickness but one the new ones come in I will update with a comparison. However, the friction material seems thin.
Below the clutch pack is a set of steel springs (4). These are simply cupped washers. Chevy identified these parts as FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE SPRING (#10 from Image 2)
Clutch Springs in place.
Clutch Springs off the shaft in their originial assembled position.
The last part of the clutch is the FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE (#9 from Image 2). This will simply slide off the shaft without any retaining rings.
Four Wheel Drive Clutch Pressure Plate. This slides off. To be safe I ordred a new pressure plate. I am fairly certain there are no issues with this one but I ordered a new one to be safe.
Below the pressure plate are two levers. These are identified as the CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER ASSEMBLY (#6 from Image 2) and TRANSFER CASE CONTROL LEVER (#3 on Image 2). There are small parts associated with these levers.
Between the Clutch Pressure Plate and the CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER ASSEMBLY (NOTE: It has a small ball bearing on the end) is a Washer and a Thrust Bearing. Chevy identifies the washer as the CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER WASHER (#8 from Image 2).
NOTE: My transfer case DID NOT HAVE THE WASHER. Whevever this case was last disassembled/assembled they forgot to install this part. I have ordered a new one.
Chevy identifies the bearing as CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER THRUST BEARING ASSEMBLY (#7 from Image 2)
The thrust bearing simply pulls off NOTE: There is an up and down with the bearing. Make a note of which direction touches the control arm and which touches the washer (which is not present as noted earlier). You can full see the barrels in the bearing for the side that FACES DOWN towards the lever. Notice the bearing at the end of the lever.
The CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER ASSEMBLY simply pulls off.
The bottom of the CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER has three notches for the balls that install between the two levers. The balls just lift out of their bores.
The bottom lever is sitting in place and simply lifts off. Place the balls in a baggie for keeping. It was recommended to me to replace the balls, they are cheap so I got new ones.
Once the bottom lever is removed you will see a tall caged bearing over the shaft. This is identified as CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER BEARING ASSEMBLY (#4 from Image 2). This bearing simply pulls off.
CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER BEARING ASSEMBLY sliding off
The last piece is the second thrust bearing identified as CONTROL ACTUATOR LEVER THRUST BEARING ASSEMBLY (#2 from Image 2).
The thrust bearing has an up and an down. I the above and below images you can see the difference. The side observed in the above image goes up towards the control lever. The part # for the thrust bearings are the same.
This side of the thrust bearing faces towards the base of the shaft.
With that the rear output shaft is totally disassembled.
The next part is the input shaft disassembly
INPUT SHAFT DISASSEMBLY
The TRANSFER CASE INPUT SHAFT (#4 from Image 1) is held into the case by the INPUT SHAFT BEARING OUTER RETAINING RING (#4 from Image 3). IF you removed that clip when taking the two case halves apart then you will probably have the input shaft assembly sitting on your bench. The input shaft assembly looks like this:
The input shaft is held in to the planetary gears by a HIGH/LOW PLANETARY CARRIER RETAINING RING (#1 from Image 1). That ring comes off easy.
Once the ring is removed you can pull the input shaft out of the planetary gear set. The retaining ring also holds two other parts against the input shaft. These parts are identified as the HIGH/LOW LOCKING PLATE (#2 from Image 1) and the PLANETARY CARRIER SUN GEAR THRUST WASHER (#3 from Image 1).
Once those parts are out of the planetary gears, you should see another thrust washer that goes between the bottom of the input gear and the planetary gears. However, MINE WAS MISSING. I have found pieces of a thrust washer in the bottom of the case. IF this part was in the case it would be identified as the PLANETARY CARRIER SUN GEAR THRUST WASHER (#7 from Image 1). It is basically the same thrust washer from the images above. I believe mine self destructed and was one of the primary causes of the damage found in this transfer case. This image below shows the metal on metal damage inside the planetary gears:
The planetary gears are identified by GM as HIGH/LOW PLANETARY CARRIER ASSEMBLY (#8 from Image 1).
The opposite end of the planetary gears house the HIGH/LOW CLUTCH (#9 from Image 1). This gear has a slotted end that mates with the shift fork. This part is identified as the HIGH/LOW SHIFT FORK (#11 from Image 1).
Once that gear is off the rear output shaft, the input shaft assembly is totally disassembled.
Last edited:
