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241 tailshaft pic - is this normal?

A worn bushing will also increase vibrations in addition to killing seals. :D
 
Is this like seal clubbing?
seal.jpg
 
Don't forget to check the pressed in (crimped on?) end cap on the slip yoke itself. I had one leak on one of my trucks.
 
hey, same EXACT symptoms on my 89. I am about to try and fix it. got any updates or "what not to do" for me? I have yet to even remove the driveshaft on one of these things.
 
Ive changed my seal 3 times,still leaks. Was told from other members could be the end cap on the slip yolk by the top u-joint. Waiting to change out slip yolk to see if thats it or not. As far as the bushing you guys mention anyone have any pics of that bushing and where it goes excactly? When I changed the seal I did take the tail piece off the case as the seal was stuck on there very good, but I don't recall seeing a bushing?
 
Bushing is inside the tailshaft, seats into a "ledge" sorta thing.

Mine still leaks almost 2 years later. DD'd it for another year and change and now it's on reserve/play toy status. I figure it's still got enough in there. Eventually I'll SYE it and fix it all together.
 
mine had the the exact same leak for a while... changed that little seal about 3 times... no dice.

SLIP YOKE was the fix...been bone dry for over 6 months now.
 
can anyone point me to a slip yoke replace how to? or even a link to the exact part I need....this is new territory to me. I have done some research, and it appears that my leak looks alot like the ones that people say are leaking splines in the slip yoke.

I would like to replace the slip yoke, seal, and bushing and be done with it. fingers crossed, but its now the only leak i have!
 
Definitely the slip yoke. Been there, done that.

Remove d-shaft, undo the front u-joint. Then you will have the slip yoke in your hands (part of the d-shaft that slides into the back of the t-case). Just replace that with a new one and may as well replace the u-joint while you have it apart.
 
right on, is this something I can pick up at the local auto parts store?

should i get seals, bushings, anything in addition?

about what does this thing cost?
 
I think someone mentioned it was like $50 or something, I didn't buy one myself, I welded a bead around the cap in the center to stop the leak. You can get one at a local drive line shop, some place that rebuilds/repairs drive shafts. Or order online.

I would plan on replacing the tailshaft seal and the front driveshaft u-joint or even both u-joints, they're cheap enough.
 
order online? that sounds easy enough. where is a good place? any chance yall know the right part numbers already?

will it just be called a slip yoke?
 
thanks K5_fla

that item says (
1310 Series 32 spline New Process NP205, 208, 241 Transfer Case Slip Yoke.)

sounds like it will work...but how do I know if I have a 32 spline or a 27? I have the np 241 and the 700r4

also so order seals too? and u joints?

 
another reason to pull the housing to replace the seal is to check the C clip on the tailshaft near the output bearing...they are notorious for breakage and allow the shaft to walk, which in turn causes other stuff to retire early.
 
man, i could really use a write up, or a how to, or pictures or something. Im a pretty new to that area of work (tcase , tansmission, etc)

is this stuff, your average beer drinking garage mechanic can tackle?
 
is this stuff, your average beer drinking garage mechanic can tackle?

When I rebuilt my 241, I bench pressed it in and out, dismantled, cleaned, replaced parts, etc in about 2 hours....Very Leisurely...double checking everything since I'm not a "trained mechanic"...I just work on stuff....I used a Frosty cold 6 pack of Fat Tire...and several Johnnie Cash CD's...

I'm also 62 years old.....
 
thats encouraging....I sometime have johhny, jim, AND jack helping in my garage!

seals
bushings
slip yoke

that should solve my issues right?

I found the SYE slip yoke eliminator....but i dont think thats needed at this point. i just want the leak stopped!
 
You might try cleaning the slip yoke cap and sealing it before buying a new yoke. I cleaned mine inside and out with carb cleaner, let it dry, stood the yoke on end and then put red loctite around the cap. The liquid loctite flows into the small gaps to seal it and once the loctite hardens its able to withstand the air pressure spikes when the yoke is forced into the tcase when hitting bumps. It worked on mine anyway.
 
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