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hey, same EXACT symptoms on my 89. I am about to try and fix it. got any updates or "what not to do" for me? I have yet to even remove the driveshaft on one of these things.
Ive changed my seal 3 times,still leaks. Was told from other members could be the end cap on the slip yolk by the top u-joint. Waiting to change out slip yolk to see if thats it or not. As far as the bushing you guys mention anyone have any pics of that bushing and where it goes excactly? When I changed the seal I did take the tail piece off the case as the seal was stuck on there very good, but I don't recall seeing a bushing?
Bushing is inside the tailshaft, seats into a "ledge" sorta thing.
Mine still leaks almost 2 years later. DD'd it for another year and change and now it's on reserve/play toy status. I figure it's still got enough in there. Eventually I'll SYE it and fix it all together.
can anyone point me to a slip yoke replace how to? or even a link to the exact part I need....this is new territory to me. I have done some research, and it appears that my leak looks alot like the ones that people say are leaking splines in the slip yoke.
I would like to replace the slip yoke, seal, and bushing and be done with it. fingers crossed, but its now the only leak i have!
Remove d-shaft, undo the front u-joint. Then you will have the slip yoke in your hands (part of the d-shaft that slides into the back of the t-case). Just replace that with a new one and may as well replace the u-joint while you have it apart.
I think someone mentioned it was like $50 or something, I didn't buy one myself, I welded a bead around the cap in the center to stop the leak. You can get one at a local drive line shop, some place that rebuilds/repairs drive shafts. Or order online.
I would plan on replacing the tailshaft seal and the front driveshaft u-joint or even both u-joints, they're cheap enough.
another reason to pull the housing to replace the seal is to check the C clip on the tailshaft near the output bearing...they are notorious for breakage and allow the shaft to walk, which in turn causes other stuff to retire early.
When I rebuilt my 241, I bench pressed it in and out, dismantled, cleaned, replaced parts, etc in about 2 hours....Very Leisurely...double checking everything since I'm not a "trained mechanic"...I just work on stuff....I used a Frosty cold 6 pack of Fat Tire...and several Johnnie Cash CD's...
You might try cleaning the slip yoke cap and sealing it before buying a new yoke. I cleaned mine inside and out with carb cleaner, let it dry, stood the yoke on end and then put red loctite around the cap. The liquid loctite flows into the small gaps to seal it and once the loctite hardens its able to withstand the air pressure spikes when the yoke is forced into the tcase when hitting bumps. It worked on mine anyway.