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$3,800 for an engine installed at GM

I

inscape

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Block was $2,000, water pump $160, various things like hoses and belts etc estimated $300, install $1,500. Roughly $3,800 (89 K5) I owe $2,200 on it. So i'm thinking of getting a 96 Civic EX for $6,888 instead and they pay off the K5.
 
Used 350cid sbc roughly $250.00 to ??? Install yourself, get some friends too help under $100.00 for lots of beer and pizza. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
did you get it installed or are you just shopping? WAY too much labor charges.
 
/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

I don't mean to sound rude, but could you possibly try to explain yourself a little clearer, brother?
 
Just shopping. The engine is running strong but burning oil so I don't know how many miles are left in it.
 
Possible translation:
He has an 89 K5 that he still owes $2.2K on and it needs an engine. The engine installation at gm will cost $3.8K. Should he trade in the K5 for a Civic and let the dealer pay off the remainder of the money he still owes on the K5? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Possible translation:
He has an 89 K5 that he still owes $2.2K on and it needs an engine. The engine installation at gm will cost $3.8K. Should he trade in the K5 for a Civic and let the dealer pay off the remainder of the money he still owes on the K5? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Yup that's it, re read what I wrote and it didn't make much sense to me either. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Just shopping. The engine is running strong but burning oil so I don't know how many miles are left in it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Just keep putting oil in it. Every Chevy burns oil. As long as it doesn't run out, it'll last forever!!!!!

Tell that to the guy that wants to sell you the Honda! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
That labor rate is about right. At the shop I work at $1500 would be about 20.3 hours @ $74 an hour. Thats what most engine jobs pay once you add it all up. I would just run the engine till it blows up if I were you, maybe switch to a higher weight oil so it doesnt burn as much.
 
First off, do you want a Honda, or do you want a K5?

If you want a Honda, stop reading here, and go trade in the truck.

If you want the truck, I'm assuming the Honda is coming into play for economy? (can't think of any reason to trade a K5 for anything but a NICE car or a commuter)

Anyways, if it's economy, sit down and figure it out. So many people get rid of a truck and go with a car for "economy" without actually calculating it. If a K5 gets half the MPG that a car does (and I know for some that is tough to achive) each tank will cost twice as much. You will go 31,500 miles (approx.) before you would spend that $2000 in gas. (approx. price diff between new truck motor and car)
 
ok... first off, you need to find a better place to shop /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

Second, an engine swap takes surprisingly little time and you can get a new crate motor for around $1400.00 GM Parts Depot (less at Carr Chevrolet)... scavenge most accessories and other parts (alternator, brackets, intake, carb/injection, etc...) off your current engine (replace the wear parts like water pump, belts, etc...) and have a 3 year warranty on the engine for a stock replacement. If you go with the GM performance parts replacement engine you can get a "turnkey" (complete from carb to pan (even oil filter)) for $3300.00. GM Parts Depot

Having it installed is fairly easy... start a post in the PNW forum about a driveway work day at your place, offer beer and BBQ some burgers and in a weekend we can drop in the new engine, shoot the chit, drink some beers, have a helluva good time and make some good friends...

I have done it myself and consider some of these guys my closest friends... and the story of how you met under a truck that you have never seen before belonging to a guy you only met that day is WAY more "priceless" than any Honda and the high school hormone drag racers.

Just my .02
 
buy the motor, throw a " install " party as mentioned above , save yourself about $1400.00.
everyone one of these " install " parties i have been to have been great. did my motor that way about 2 years ago.
and i am doing the same thing here soon for my 3/4 ton swap.

and if all your truck does is burn oil , just keep driving it and adding oil as needed. no reason to get rid of it.
 
I thought that since it's burning oil it won't last very long. So it doesn't really damage the engine as long as it has good oil pressure? I like my Blazer and like the Civic, but I don't know the history of the Civic so I don't know if it will need a new clutch or anything anytime soon. The Civic gets 30-34 mpg, the Blazer gets 13 or so? Not an easy decision. If my insurance would be cheaper on the Civic than i'll probably go with that. Maybe I should get the Civic and a few years from now when I have enough money I can build up a Blazer.

edit: Oh ya, the transfer case is leaking, also needs rear windows, carpet is in bad shape, top seals, and other misc. things.
 
I'd keep driving the blazer. I don't consider them really broke in till I see a little blue smoke. Then that engine is in the prime of its life. Now would be a good time to keep an eye out for that smoking deal on a used motor. By the time you need it, it will be in your garage. Throw the install party and enjoy for the next 150 thou.
 
So you say it's burning oil.... Is it a constant burn(blue smoke out of your tailpipes all the time) or just at start up when it sits for a while?

If it is the second situation(at start up) then you probably just need new valve seals and those are cheap to replace. And if it is blue smoke 24/7, then it's the rings, but it still could last a longtime.

Transfer case shouldn't be hard to seal depending on where the leak is and the top seal isn't bad to change. Whats wrong with the windows??? And carpet isn't bad to change either.
 
A "NEW" GM replacement "K" code 350 from Pace Perfromance is $1500... (for reference) And not hard to change with a few friends, an afternoon, a cherry picker and some beer! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Sounds like you want a vehicle (in general) that is in better overall condition? I know for a long time I kicked myself in the a$$ over the Blazer, big money pit and was never "nice" in the ways newer vehicle are. Do what you think is best for YOU. I personally am not a fan of a fullsize anything for a DD, just not practical...unless you NEED something that can haul or tow or whatever /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
So you say it's burning oil.... Is it a constant burn(blue smoke out of your tailpipes all the time) or just at start up when it sits for a while?

If it is the second situation(at start up) then you probably just need new valve seals and those are cheap to replace. And if it is blue smoke 24/7, then it's the rings, but it still could last a longtime.

Transfer case shouldn't be hard to seal depending on where the leak is and the top seal isn't bad to change. Whats wrong with the windows??? And carpet isn't bad to change either.

[/ QUOTE ]

Blue smoke on start up: probably valve seals.
Blue smoke on startup and leaving a stop light after sitting a bit: valve seals.
Blue smoke all the time: Rings
Reason to get a new engine because of blue smoke: Wont smog. /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif
Better solution: 1974 or so vin plate!! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
The dealer has there quirks with the warrantee (witch i think they try to weasel out of every chance they get) But i had an LM1 chevy 350 crate motor installed in my 85 k5 and the motor was 1000.00 (knew some people down at the place and got a deal)for the 350 4 bolt LM1 ,i paid some family backyard guys 1000.00 for labor. the intake was 200.00, i think all in all the whole thing was like 2800.00-3000.00 with everything. It was really a PITA though because of the 85s california smog crap, all the spaghetti lines everywhere,i diddnt realize what a peice of crap system was on the 85 until we took it all apart,what a nightmare,chocked down,smothered way to design a k5.........ill never buy that year again.It took 2 guys that were older and knew WTF they were doing to take all that crap off and getting it running decent. I am glad for you you have an 89, i think they were less of a PITA,and not carbed, but man, it better be the truck you want , becuse if its not youll regret it later .I would consider **Rebuilding the motor** first, /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif good luck,jacob*
 
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