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40"+ what engines/mods u running?

muddybuddy

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im gonna be stepping into the 40"+ tire range once i get all the money together for the tires. i got a 350tbi stock for now, but plan on doin headers and true-duals. what engines/ mods do you have on urs, or would you recommend for this engine, that can be done for a reasonable price. its also my dd to school :D so nothing toooooo crazy...yet
 
I have a pretty healthy 454/th400/np241 to my 1-tons with 4.56s on 40's I have plenty of power :D
 
Mucho cubes help when running mucho big tires.What are you going to be doing with your truck?Rocks?You would be fine with an better breathing intake and exhaust w/ an ignition upgrade if you go to a doubler and bigger/lower gears.Mud?Need more extensive upgrades.Just depends bro.
 
i have 39.5 irok's on my truck, with a 350 bored 40 over, with 9 somethin to 1 compression pistons, edlebrock performer intake, headers, and its way over camed,performance parts will help a little but the best thing you can do is regear
 
keep the engine how it is and re-gear and/or doubler for mo-power. Toyota and Sammy guys have been doing it forever. Gear swapping is almost always cheaper than an engine upgrade that would yield similar results. I'd keep the engine near-stock for reliability if I was you.

j
 
if you're upgrading your engine in order to turn the bigger tires, you're going to kill your axles, transfer case, and/or your trans. regear it properly, that will give you all the "extra" power you need. not only will you increase power, but you'll likely gain milage over an improperly geared rig.
 
muddy buddy is going to be running 5.13's... that's about the best gears you can get for our axles. (I don't think 5.38's exist).....

buddy, I would just put in your gears and tires and see how you like it. you might be surprised..
 
well hes going to run a 14bolt so 5.13 is the highest he can go
 
jekbrown said:
keep the engine how it is and re-gear and/or doubler for mo-power. Toyota and Sammy guys have been doing it forever. Gear swapping is almost always cheaper than an engine upgrade that would yield similar results. I'd keep the engine near-stock for reliability if I was you.

j
I agree 100% that a stock or near stock engine is hard to beat if it already makes good power. A little better air inflow and exhuast, and some good healthy maintanance are more than welcome. My 89 350TBI seems to be getting every bit of it's stock power, and great mialeage to boot. But, it was a "mom-mobile" before I got it, so I doubt it was ever abused.. and I have the records that show it had plenty of service done at the dealer :rolleyes: As of now the entire engine system/exhaust is 100% bone stock. I'd say the power it puts out feels almost, but not quite, as good as my DD 97 350 vortec's.
 
so you want 40" tires

The 5:13 gears will help. You'll want torque with those big tires. If you are set on keeping the 350 instead of a big block, I'd build a stroker. I'd also be concerned about that front 10 bolt, but if you are smart about driving and keep your foot out of it, you can probably baby it along. Dave
 
davesanrn said:
The 5:13 gears will help. You'll want torque with those big tires. If you are set on keeping the 350 instead of a big block, I'd build a stroker. I'd also be concerned about that front 10 bolt, but if you are smart about driving and keep your foot out of it, you can probably baby it along. Dave
2.73-3.08 stock vs. 5.13... you will see roughly double the torque.

no need for modding the engine for better torque, you're already getting it through gear reduction.
 
I'm running a stock 72' 350 4 bolt main, 454 lift cam, headers, true duals, elde air gap intake, holley tbi adaptor plate, stock 87 tbi setup, dual electric fans, 5.13s, 42" TSLs, TH350/NP205. The motor has plenty of power for me. Can run about 60-70mph with out to much strain on the motor. This is becoming a trail only rig so I'm losing the auto and swapping in a SM465.
 
gearing,HP,and RPM

78Suburban said:
why would that not be fine for mud??? :confused:
Because when you are in mud you need to spin your tires at a high rate of speed in order to get them to "clean out" the lugs so they can take another bite at the mud on their next revolution or you will just be spinning a big slick tire packed full of mud.With very low gearing your engine will be spinning very high RPM's.If you need to gear down in order to have the available torque to spin big tires you'll be through your reasonable(read:livable)RPM ceiling and into the parts store real quick.
 
If you can't clean 40's with 5.13's, you're not running on all 8 cylinders.
 
i think im leaning towards 42s. i know the 10b is a pos, but thats what i got for now. when im able to locate the "cheap" d60 ill swap it in :D . im keeping the 10b open for sure, its only going in mud, no such thing as rocks in northern va. most people usually break the 10b on rocks tho correct? i dont really see how i could break it unless it starts bouncing or something. the 14b is getting a full detroit, so hopefully that will give me some "power" to get through the mud haha. since it is my dd, i dont wanna lose the reliablility, was just hoping i could get by with intake, headers, true duals with welded flanges so i can easily go from running just headers when offroad to full exhuast, what ever those things are called. are there any other "cheap" mods that would increase hp/tq?

thanks for all the replies so far, so glad im a member
 
454/TH400/NP205/4.11's/D60 open/14ff Detoit'ed/39.5" Swampers/4" lift. Great for mud and snow. It wouldn't be very good in the rocks though, but that's not the terrain here anyways. Stock carbed engine with a RV cam. Lots of power and I would do this combo again. Reliable, OEM big rad - never overheats. Very happy with my setup. The only thing non-factory is the RV cam and the rear Detroit. Performs great as is highly UNMODIFIED. My only complaint is the Swampers are hard to balance.
 
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