CK5
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400 cast crank
- Thread starter b454rat
- Start date
Most of my 400 internals are Comp.
Can be pricy but there good products.
Can be pricy but there good products.
nice lookin place @76zimmer there complete engine packages look killer and i think better price point than lots of others .
In my opinion I would go with forged for forced induction. Yeah the SCAT 9000 cast steel is stronger then the old cast iron but still is it worth the risk for something that sees more load everytime you drive it?
It's still way cheaper than a callies magnum USA made crank.
I would buy a complete balanced rotating assembly ready to go. Also, a longer rod to leave room for internal balance counterweights if you can, then no dealing with 400 balancers and flexplates.
I'd type more advice but I broke my hand sat morning and typing with one hand sucks.
It's still way cheaper than a callies magnum USA made crank.
I would buy a complete balanced rotating assembly ready to go. Also, a longer rod to leave room for internal balance counterweights if you can, then no dealing with 400 balancers and flexplates.
I'd type more advice but I broke my hand sat morning and typing with one hand sucks.
Still debating in what to do. Even without the whipple motor will prolly be 500 horse, could go lil more aggressive on the cam and compression. But would save since wouldn't need all forged stuff. But with almost diesel torque territory, kinda hard to pass that up!!!
stick a cast crank in it and when you break it with the power and boost i will come tow you . 
79rustyk10
3/4 ton status
When shooting for 500+ horse, really, what's $400 more for a crank that will live, and give you good peace of mind?
Just thinking is all. Really want to get this going, and the more expensive it is the longer it's gonna take. A stock crank I can get today, but forged will take couple weeks/months, then the same with rods, pistons, roller cam conv, etc. etc.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
since its a 96 with factory Vortec. im assuming you will be using the factory Crank sensor from the 350?
yes, Going with forged crank will be internally balanced, so can just bolt on vortec balancer. Timing cover bolts up same too. If using a stock crank, then need to trim off roughly 1/4" from the 400 balancer for the reluctor wheel...
wasted wages
1 ton status
I'd go for the forged internals...and double key the crank snout.
Just good peace of mind for any forced induction setup.
I saw a 400 crank break at the first rod journal when the owners son overtightened the belts..didn't take very long either... who knows, maybe the crank was cracked, or just a bad casting..
His son just changed all the belts.. finished the job, drove to the c-store for some cold beer.. never made it.
He said it knocked real loud for a few seconds, and shut off..
Just good peace of mind for any forced induction setup.
I saw a 400 crank break at the first rod journal when the owners son overtightened the belts..didn't take very long either... who knows, maybe the crank was cracked, or just a bad casting..
His son just changed all the belts.. finished the job, drove to the c-store for some cold beer.. never made it.
He said it knocked real loud for a few seconds, and shut off..
First I've heard of that but anything is possible. This has the serpentine setup so that shouldn't pose any problems. I'm prolly gonna go all forged, just didn't really wanna drop damn near 2k on a rotating assembly. Might have to wait till tax time next year to do it. Then year after that get a good set of heads....
Know all too well bout that lol
CGT80
1/2 ton status
I went with a forged crank and my engine guy had it precision ground and re heat treated. This was a gen I sbc 406 10.2:1 CR Comp 264 roller cam, edelbrock aluminum heads, but hyper pistons..........it doesn't have any power adders and is in my 79 C20. Other builds similar to this came out a something like 420hp and 525 tq and the builder said to save the money on the pistons by reusing what was in it and prevent the fit/noise that can happen with forged.
He said at 500-600 Hp, or power adders, that forged pistons would be a must.
The previous build was from another engine guy with a scatt 9000 cast crank and he used stock bearings which didn't match the crank shape and the thrust bearings wore. I had starter issues and eventually it killed the pump in the trans and that is when we saw the crank play and pulled the engine and had it done again.
With the amount of money into parts and porting, and the towing use, better parts were used for more reliability. The roller cam was for reliability but also for better ramp rates and it does perform better at part throttle than the bigger flat tappet cam in the first build of my 406.
Yes, built engines are damn expensive, but they are far more expensive when you end up rebuilding them a couple years later from faulty parts or human error.
He said at 500-600 Hp, or power adders, that forged pistons would be a must.
The previous build was from another engine guy with a scatt 9000 cast crank and he used stock bearings which didn't match the crank shape and the thrust bearings wore. I had starter issues and eventually it killed the pump in the trans and that is when we saw the crank play and pulled the engine and had it done again.
With the amount of money into parts and porting, and the towing use, better parts were used for more reliability. The roller cam was for reliability but also for better ramp rates and it does perform better at part throttle than the bigger flat tappet cam in the first build of my 406.
Yes, built engines are damn expensive, but they are far more expensive when you end up rebuilding them a couple years later from faulty parts or human error.
