52 inch spring swap question(suggestion)

[Blazr77400]

I noticed everyone was moving the front mount 4 inches forward(by moving the mount in front of the body mount bracket(BMB)), and then moving the rear mount forward to give a better shackle angle. It also moved the axle 2 inches forward, Right?

Well instead of moving the mount in front of the BMB, why not put it directly under it. That way your axle would stay in the same spot and you wouldnt have to mess with the rear mount. Now I know some people want it farther forward, but in my case I want it to stay where its at. Could I just move the rivets like the blue arrows indicate(disregard red arrows.) I would also brace it in the front or rear(of the front mount) to regain the strength of the L bracket.

 

[Michk5]

IMO it wouldn't be strong enough . That would put all of the stress on the body mount only. In its current (factory) configuration it has the stress spread with the additional bracket.

However, I'm with you, I would rather not move the rear mount. It may cost a bit more but custom springs made at 50 inches would give you what you are looking for

Or ditch the current body mounts and make some out of of 1/2' steel and bolt whatever you want on them


Matt

 

[Blazr77400]

IMO it wouldn't be strong enough . That would put all of the stress on the body mount only. In its current (factory) configuration it has the stress spread with the additional bracket.

Bracing the bracket would make it strong enough.

It may cost a bit more but custom springs made at 50 inches would give you what you are looking for Matt

The cheapest custom springs I have seen would be around $350. I am pretty sure used 52's would be cheaper, I paid $50 for my 56's out of an 89 burb.

 

[Larry_in_Tx]

The first gens came with the hanger located under the body mount from the factory so I wouldn’t think strength would be a problem moving yours under there. And like you said bracing the bracket would definitely make it strong enough.

 

[surpip]

i diddent think you had to move the rear hanger with 52's

 

[mikey_d05]

yeah, you have to move the rear hanger forward otherwise your shackle angle will suck. it's 56's that you can leave it alone.

 

[79k20350]

With a 52" spring swap you need to move the axle forward. if you dont you might as well say goodbye to your firewall. i have seen 52"s done and you cant tell the 2" unless your looking at another chevy sitting next to it. Also you need crossover, if your trying to not move the axle to keep the stock steering forget it. it flex's way to much, even for around the town.

 

[K5er4Life]

If you want you can zero rate the axle to move back an inch, then it wouldnt be all that bad and might still be far enough away from the firewall to keep it from contacting really hard. Im not sure what will work for me when I do it but I think I am going to move my axle back an inch or inch and a half. Mainly because I want to make use of the crossover highsteer I just bought.

 

[Blazr77400]

I am running full hydraulic so the steering isnt an issue.
If I can make it so I dont have to mess with moving the front end(mainly my traction bar) it would make it a little easier. Besides, I Personally dont care for the tire looking forward in the wheel well. Also, the less work the better.
I also have it so my springs hit the bump stops just before the tire hits the wheel well. Changing the springs wont effect that.

I think the springs I have flex pretty good already, but they dont have a good shackle angle and it really effects the ride especially with the front mounted traction bar.

 

[DougK20]

I am using a zero-rate to push the axle back 1.5" right now. But, my tires aren't as large as yours. Why would you install 52's and then limit your flex because of clearance issues?

Sweet truck, BTW. I'd put some rock sliders on it.....

 

[79chevyk10]

Okay here is my question, I have hysteer on my rig and the draglink and the tie rod are pretty close on full compression. If 52's up front move the axle forward 2" and then use a zero rate to move it back an 1.5", it still seems that the two rods would hit, the pitman arm already rubs the tie rod under full compression, the additional 0.5" forward could mean trouble. So how is it working out for the guys that have hysteer?

 

[Blazr77400]

I am using a zero-rate to push the axle back 1.5" right now. But, my tires aren't as large as yours. Why would you install 52's and then limit your flex because of clearance issues?

Mainly for a better and softer ride.

Sweet truck, BTW. I'd put some rock sliders on it.....

Didnt you look at the picture?

 

[sandawgk5]

If you do not want to move the rear hanger just put 56s in the front. You move the front hanger and the rear hanger gives you almost perfect shackle angle. If you want to move the axle forward just turn the 56s around.

Ira

 

[Blazr77400]

It seems like most 56" spring packs that are out there are going to be the 3/4 ton ones, and they aren't as soft as the 52's springs. Thats what I had on the rear initially. If I could find some 56" half ton springs again,(like I have on the rear now) I would probably do that.

 

[sandawgk5]

just take the packs apart and build them how you want. It is quite simple and replace the center pin with a 3/8 allen head bolt. The head is the same size as a center pin and it allows you to hold the bolt while tightening the nut to secure the leaves.

Ira

 

[85mudblazin]

If you are to the point right know where you are limiting the uptravel then going to 52's wont do you much good. If you are just wanting them for droop then just move you shackle mount forward in the frame for better droop with your current springs.

 

[neverendingproject]

wait a minute... all this talk with the axle moving and everything is confusing me. here is my thinking. the stock spring is 47" right? and a 52" swap would mean a difference of 5", right? so if you moved the hangar forward 2 inches, then the rear would still be 3" further back. if you took the average of the difference, then your axle actually moves back 1/2"... Is this wrong? I thought the whole pupose of moving the braket was to keep the axle where it is supposed to be. So if you do the swap, you cant use factory anti-sway bar, or steering linkages?

 

[sandawgk5]

The center pin is not always in the center of the spring.

Ira

 

[dremu]

wait a minute... all this talk with the axle moving and everything is confusing me. here is my thinking. the stock spring is 47" right? and a 52" swap would mean a difference of 5", right? so if you moved the hangar forward 2 inches, then the rear would still be 3" further back. if you took the average of the difference, then your axle actually moves back 1/2"... Is this wrong? I thought the whole pupose of moving the braket was to keep the axle where it is supposed to be. So if you do the swap, you cant use factory anti-sway bar, or steering linkages?

Factory (anti) sway bar?

-- A

 

[Blazr77400]

What I want to do is get a better ride.
Increasing the length on the rear portion of the spring will improve ride quality.
The way my bumper is mounted would make it a pain to mount the L bracket in front of the Body Mount Bracket. Putting the mount under the BMB would work, and it would make it so I dont have to redo the rear shackle mount, and I also wouldnt have to redo my traction bar, and I wouldnt mess with my bumper mount.