6.2 diesel IP swap help

[1-bad-burb]

I'm replacing the injection pump on my 6.2 and have hit a snag, I have all the injector lines off and the 3 nuts off of the studs that hold the IP on, and now the pump still wont come off, why? is there something I'm missing? also are there any other things that I need to know about doing this swap before I go any further? this is my first time doing this and I dont want to fudge it up, I havent found any threads containing an IP replacement step-by-step, any help would be appreciated.

 

[tRustyK5]

Haynes has a great diesel book covering the Ford 6.9/7.3 NA and the GM 6.2/6.5's. In it you'll find an area covering the IP re&re.

Basically you'll need to remove the oil fill tube. It's just a push fit with an O ring IIRC. Once removed you'll see one of three bolts holding the IP to the gear through the hole in the top of the timing cover that the fill tube sat in. Undo the bolt being very careful not to drop it...then rotate the motor by hand until the next bolt becomes accessible. Rinse and repeat until all three are out...now the IP should pull right out.

You can't really mess up the orientation as there is also an alignment dowel. The IP can only go back in one way.

On the front of the IP will be a little spring loaded dealie with a button on the front of it. Make sure to keep track of that as I could not find a replacement from GM or anywhere else. I stupidly sent my IP to be rebuilt with that little dealie still on the pump (it just pushes in) I managed to find a used one though...

Rene

 

[1-bad-burb]

ahhh, that explains it, thanks Rene, damn that means more work to be done, where exactly is the little spring loaded thingy you referred to? other then that is there any other little things to look out for? would it hurt to add a couple extra degrees of timing in when I re-install the pump? or should I leave it stock? man this bastards dirty lol, my lifter valley is full of dirt, grease, leaves, sticks and who knows what else (about 3 inches thick). my truck has 165,000 miles on it, (IP was replaced at 68,000) think I'll notice any power gains with the new pump?


sorry for all the newB questions, its my first time doing any serious diesel work.

 

[tRustyK5]

The spring loaded dealie is on the end of the IP's shaft. If you're swapping a new pump on just take the dealie off your pump and put it somewhere safe until you can put it on the new IP.

I wouldn't add a ton of timing, maybe 1/32" of an inch past the marks that are there and see how it is. Doesn't sound like a lot, but 1/16" is huge for diesel timing.

Not much else to watch for, and you'll prolly notice a bit of power gain. Are you getting rebuilt injectors at the same time?

One thing I did while mine was apart for the IP was to port match the intake. I used the gaskets to mark out where I needed to hog with the die grinder. Didn't take long and didn't really cost me anything. Anything that gets more air into the motor will help make power...

Rene

 

[tRustyK5]

Have you bled the air out of a 6.2 before? If not I'll point you to the info you'll need to do that with the least amount of frustration.

Rene

 

[1-bad-burb]

no, I cant afford injectors right now, I'm going to replace them when i do get the money though, I've heard that theres certain injectors to look for to get some more oomph, I had to drive my truck about a week straight with a leaking fuel line( P-O jimmy rigged hard line going to fuel filter rusted and got a leak) because of work and family problems, so I pretty much had to bleed the system out every day, but having a racor and an electric fuel pump helped alot, so i shouldnt have any problems, and I've already read the post in the diesel forum about the lift pump change.

 

[tRustyK5]

Cool deal. The injectors you're probably thinking of are the 6.5 TD injectors. They won't do you much good without a turbo and the DB4911 pump though. You can increase the fuel rate on the pump you have a little, and the guys that have done it say they really notice a difference...

The only thing is that you should have an EGT guage if you do that so you can make sure the EGT's don't get too high and start melting pistons.

FWIW, I got my IP and 8 rebuilt injectors through www.accuratediesel.com for under $350 at the time and that included the shipping.

Rene

 

[1-bad-burb]

cool, thanks for the info, I dont think I'll be messing with my IP anytime soon, too much stuff going on in there for me, I'll just leave it alone and let it do its job lol, I just hope I can get this thing running again soon wihtout finding anymore problems.