6.2 oil cooler hoses

[Massboy]

Looking for a little help. On my rebuild of my Blazer I've found my oil cooler hoses leaking a little oil on the ends near the oil filter. These are the two rubber and aluminum hoses that connect to the two aluminum tubes that run across the radiator rear to the passenger side radiator tank. When I called my auto parts guy he says there is only one part # and one hose listed yet these two hoses are bent in two different configurations. Does anyone know if there is two different part #'s or are they using just one hose now and if there is two different hoses, does anyone have those numbers?
Thanks in advance.

 

[brian wafer]

would need to know what year?

 

[colbystephens]

If I remember right, when I was looking to replace those parts I wasn't able to find a stock replacement. I ended up going to the Caterpillar service location and they made up new, all rubber, pressure lines for me. Then I was able to easily route them as needed.

Also, is it possible that the ones from the parts store come with straight metal lines and you have the bend them - like brake lines?

 

[Massboy]

Sorry, I should have listed the year, 86'. Dorman industries only listed one hose part number 265-154 Upper inlet hose for a Blazer. You have to look under K10 pickups for the lower outlet hose part# 265-155. For some reason they don't have the same vehicles listed on both part numbers but you need both hoses. Here is the link to the hoses.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsear...nmeta:parttype=Oil%20Cooler%20Line%20Assembly

 

[Richcz28]

I just got the upper two days ago. Same dorman part number. Haven't put it in yet but looks correct. Autozone ordered it and it took a bit with shipping to arrive.

 

[Massboy]

Just so everyone out there with a 6.2 knows, the two Dorman hoses, Part # 265-154 and 265-155 are the correct hoses and fit correctly. You can use the rear clamp off the manifold to hold them like the originals. Will have pictures us soon.

 

[diesel4me]

Thanks for that info--looks like I'll soon be replacing my oil cooler lines on my '82 K2500--provided I dont blow the motor by running it out of oil,should they pop while I'm driving it..they look like they have barnacles growing on them................................................................................................ I hate RUST!......EVERY thing "wrong" with all my vehicles is related to RUST...seized e-brake cables on my Contour...brake line on my van popped when I moved it the other day...got holes appearing in my trucks rockers now ,and cab supports are crumbling..and my Suburban is not getting any better either,having sat 2+ years since buying it...rear shackles rotted off it last year,along with the u-bolt plates...inner fender rotted so bad on the drivers side,that the valve body for the plow controls moved closer to the firewall,and wouldn't work!..had to booty-fab a "liner" for it out of an old galvanized pool's sheet metal during a blizzard to fix that...rust SUCKS...

 

[Massboy]

Got to agree with you on the rust we get up here. I've been stripping my old M1009 because the body got too rusted and can't believe the rust on things I wouldn't think would get that rusty. The engine runs perfect on this thing and now that I've got the whole front clip off I see even the injector lines at the rear of the motor are pretty rusted. Just a matter of time before they start shooting fuel out! The oil pan has rusted through in spots and event the pan on the TH400 is pretty rusty to the point it has heavy scale on it. It sat last year in my sister's yard because I was letting her boyfriend use it to plow her and my mother's yard just up the street. Letting it sit on her grass for the year really finished it off. Grass is just a rust maker. I'm taking the camera out to start taking more pictures of my rebuild of my almost rust free M1009. I will take some pictures of the oil cooler lines installed. I had to bend the bracket slightly that holds the two lines at the rear of the manifold but I got it able to work. I also picked up a new oil pan for $100 and it's made in Canada! Really nice pan with the only thing being you have to use a 88 and later dip stick and tube. The motor I'm using in this rebuild is a 91' so I lucked out with the tube. The oil pan company does give you the GM part number to order in the instructions too.

 

[diesel4me]

The oil pan on my '82 is junk too--has J-B Waterweld putty holding the oil in it for the past 3 years,and I dont dare try removing the drain plug,because I know a big chunk of the pan will tear out,its rotted close to the plug,and is paper thin...........................................................................................................................................................................................................I got a used oil pan off an '87 GMC ramp truck a friend owned,that had a new GM pan installed on it before the crank snapped in half,I got the whole motor minus a few external parts for free--my fuel injector lines are rusty and I am dreading the day they start ejaculating fuel all over the place--be lucky if it dont burn to the ground...the fuel lines on my parts engine dont look that much better shape either,unfortunately--can only imagine what new ones would cost,IF you can find any nowadays...........................................................................................I haven't had the ambition to try changing the oil pan,and I'm hoping it FITS,because GM lists 2 different ones,depending on the years,while aftermarket shows only one part #--maybe the dipstick tube is the difference,as you mentioned....................................................................My truck has always been parked on asphalt,but my Suburban has spent a few winters parked on the dirt & grass--its frame still had paint on it when I got it,so did my truck--none left on my truck now,but the burb still looks pretty decent considering its sat so long...if not for rust,I'd never have to replace or fix anything on my vehicles...pisses me off watching them crumble away more every day......

 

[Massboy]

From what I understand the 87 pan will not fit your 82. The 82 motor most likely has the two piece main seal and the 87 has the one piece which is a larger area. The rear moon shaped area at the rear of the 87' pan will not make contact on your 82 motor. I read that somewhere. I would think you will have to look around on ebay to find a pan that will fit your early 6.2.
Luckily, I have a 6.2 that is low on compression to use for parts. It has real good injectors, lines, built pump, and I think a decent pan. All of it should be good to recondition the engine that's currently sitting in my rusted out M1009. I'm in the process of stripping it and won't bother touching the motor until my other M1009 is totally finished. Unless I end up needing the motor.

 

[diesel4me]

The engine isn't the original one in my '82,it was swapped in before I got it,the guy who did the job was not a diesel tech,and couldn't get it to start up after the swap,so I bought it cheap when he got disgusted with it...I dont know what year the engine is in it now,I am hoping the oil pan would fit it,I'd hate to have it stuck on my friends lift after removing the pan and have to tie his lift up for 2 days waiting for the right pan to come in,IF I had 100+ bucks to pay for one(and I dont!).......................................................................I may just clean the leaking oil pan again, and put more J-B Weld on it...the truck is getting to the point I dont feel like doing anything to it ,its getting ripe,the engine ate a glow plug and is making lifter noises now,and I may not be living here for long,once my mom passes ,I'll be unable to stay here and I'll end up having to sell or scrap everything I own....dont feel like wasting money and effort fixing anything,when thats going to be what happens in the end................I just hope it holds together till spring,maybe by then I'll feel like doing some work on it...(yaaaaa..right..)