6.5 TD for towing?

[joez]

Joez - What was all done to your motor?

I've talked him into upgrading the cooling system and exhaust first. After that, I think he'd be up for a chip.

BTW - Hadn't seen any updated pictures of your 4Runner. Looks BADASS! I'm going to Kansas this weekend to pick up a set of 40" Iroks, but the 42's make me jealous.

Keep in mind the power estimation on that was crank, not rear wheel.

I had a 4" exhaust, BD computer, homemade turbomaster, optic bump, timing advanced a bit, and a couple resistors to give a little bump in fuel rate and fool the computer. To keep it cool i had a 185* t-stat and a duramax fan. Like i sait it was no rocketship, but it was also significantly cheaper than comparable dodges and fords. Another big plus is that parts for it were CHEAP.

Have your buddy check and see what IP he has. If he has a 5068 IP i actually have my old bd-power chip still laying arround. I pulled what i could reuse or sell off of the truck before i got rid of it, and shortly after doing so i moved, so i never sold it. I might have other parts as well still at my moms place, ill have to go check if hes interested.

I think you'll like the iroks, so far im loving mine. They work awesome on the rocks, and better in the mud and dirt than i expected. But why only get 40's, the 42's are a whole different animal, and youve got the axles to handle it without a problem.

 

[joez]

The only reason why the Dodge autos "suck" is because they were designed to handle a stock Cummins engine. When a third of the trucks out there were getting bumped to well over 300HP and 800+ft lbs, it's no wonder that most of them eventually fail.

Around here people seem to worship the 4L80E. Its only viewed as "bulletproof" because GM never put a real motor in front of it. The 6.5 never made any kind of real power, and basically neither did the 454. Stick a modded Cummins in front of an '80 and it'll shred just as fast or faster than any Dodge 518, 47RE, 48RE.

No, they suck stock too. Terribly inneficient converters are the only reason they live as long as they do

 

[smalltruckbigcid]

Mikey one thing to keep in mind is driving in cold weather here. If he's going to drive it in the middle of winter he want to keep the stock tranny cooler intact to keep from running the fluid to cold. Towing will keep the fluid warm but driving it with no load at 10 below won't make the tranny happy if the fluid is too cold.
George

 

[rjfguitar]

No, they suck stock too. Terribly inneficient converters are the only reason they live as long as they do

The E40D and later 4R100 are no better and it didn't matter a whole lot with the 4L80E/6.5 because the 6.5 didn't make any power.

Pic any year like say....1997.... You had a 47RH, E40D, and 4L80E. If one of them "sucked" then they all sucked. None really had anything over the next.

 

[muddermilitia]

Heck, my pop used to tow 24K behind his '76 C30 with a stock 454....

That's nice to know, my dad has a 77 c30 with a stock 454

 

[mikey_d05]

I think you'll like the iroks, so far im loving mine. They work awesome on the rocks, and better in the mud and dirt than i expected. But why only get 40's, the 42's are a whole different animal, and youve got the axles to handle it without a problem.

I got a set of 40's at 90% and hummer rims for $830. My friend just bought this 6.5 TD so he'll be wanting 40's by the end of next summer. This way, I can sell him mine when he has the urge and buy 42's or 47's or whatever.

I'll have him check on the injection pump tomorrow. Thanks again man.

 

[MaxPF]

The 6.5's do seem to be prone to main web cracking, particularly those that are used for a lot of heavy towing. I believe the problem is preventable, but once a crack starts the engine is doomed. I believe the biggest reason is not enough thread engagement on the outer main bolts. If you get a girdle from DSG you get studs that engage the full length of thread in these holes. The girdle itself doesn't hurt either

That and the PMD relocation should take care of the worst problems. The harmonic damper is another thing to check. If the rubber looks questionable, replace it. Ditto for the rubber isolated serpentine drive pulley mounted to the front of it. Failure of these can break a crank. Once these items are addressed, then get yourself an EGT pyrometer. After that you can mess with power adders and cooling mods.