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6.5 turbo diesel

4X4HIGH

4X4HIGH

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Ok, so i have a friend who has a 94 chevy 2wd with the 6.5 turbo diesel engine.

The injector pump is bad. I'm taking on the job of replacing it but this is my first attempt at working on any diesel engine. I did a little research first and then dove into it tonight. I don't have my repair manual with me so i had to stop for the night but i got as far as removing the intake manifold and all the injector lines and electrical connections and also pulled the oil fill tube out and this is where i'm stuck. If i remember correctly the book said one the oil fill tube was removed that i need to mark the injector pump and the timing cover then through the oil fill hole in the timing cover i need to remove 3 bolt from the gear and then the 3 bolts holding the injector pump and it's ready to remove. Well, through the oil hole i can see the 3 bolts but i also see what appears to be a nut bolting the injector shaft to the gear. I'm guessing that maybe that nut holds a splined shaft of some sort that the injector pump runs off of? Am i correct or does that nut need to be removed also?
 
I recall three bolts being removed through the oil fill tube hole. This is what attaches the pump driver to the timing gear and it's also doweled so you can't mess up the re-install. I don't recall any other fasteners...

On the intake valley side there are three studs with nuts holding the IP body to the back of the timing cover. Remove them all and the pump should come out. There is a spring loaded dealie on the end of the IP, which you should keep. My rebuilt pump didn't come with one (they just pull out) and I had to do some scavenging to rustle up another one later because I sent mine with the core. :doah:

Priming the system when you're done is a bit of a chore, but at least that truck should have an electric fuel pump to make it a bit easier.

Rene
 
Thanks Rene. Yes it does have a lift pump of which i already replaced it as well. I was just looking around e-bay and found a guy selling the electric injector pump and was able to see what the front side (timing gear side) looks like which makes things easier now.

So in order to remove the 3 bolts on the gear you must turn the engine over correct? It there anything i should watch out for? Should i only turn the engine over by hand and not use the starter to bump it around? This is the last part that has me worried. Will the gear just stay in place and not able to lose time with the drive gear?
 
You can bump the starter, but I'd at least unplug the glow plugs to make sure it doesn't try and fire. You don't have to worry about getting it out of time because of the dowel. It can only be re-assembled one way...dowel in the dowel hole with the three bolts lined up. The most finicky part of the whole thing is making sure you don't drop one of those bolts down inside the timing cover...that would definitely add a few hours to the job.

Are you relocating the PMD after the IP install? The most common reason for PMD failure is heat caused by the factory mounting location. If you need more info I should be able to dig up who has the PMD relocation kits...I'm pretty sure it's Heath and SSdiesel but would have to double check.

Keep us posted!

Rene
 
Ok, well tonight i went to my buddies house and finished pulling the injector pump. It was easier to pull the water pump/upper timing cover to remove the bolts from the driven gear and besides, the water pump is old so i'll throw a new one on it while i'm there. I did talk to the dealer today and you must time the injector pump aftert it is all put back together and it requires a tech 1 scanner to do it. They told me that i can get the truck to run once i'm done but that it will probably throw an engine check light but will allow me to get it to the dealer. They said if the injector pump is off by more than 1/2 of a degree it will run like crap. At any rate tomorrow i'll go prep for reassembly so on friday when the new pump comes in i can start putting it all back together.
 
1994 is the first year for electronic injector pump and also the only year for two different pump options.

I'm learning alot in a short amount of time.
 
Look over at dieselplace.com They have a forum for the 6.5 and lots of tech articles like timing the IP.

I haven't timed one yet but from what I've read that dealer is speaking, well, like a dealer:haha:

Too bad that '94 doesn't have a mechanical pump. I just happen to have a used one for sale:D
 
Well, i have the truck running again. I think i nailed the injector pump timing perfectly as no check engine light and the truck runs awesome. I completed the injector pump R&R and also did the water pump in 6 hours total.
 
I should have mentioned an IP rebuild should be done by an expert. As for pump timing usually you can be at least very close:D As you found out:D
 
My buddy bought a brand new injector pump from the dealer, $1,419.97 OUCH. The local rebuilder wanted $1145.00 to rebuild or exchange it. In my mind for the extra $275.00 it was better to buy a new pump. The new pump comes with all the electric stuff as well.
 
Wasn't my money so i didn't care. :D

What i did like was the $500.00 i made doing the job. :deal:
 
Nicely done! :waytogo: Once you start working on the 6.2/6.5 you start to appreciate the simplicity. It's just different than a gasser, and so much easier in a lot of ways.

Rene
 
MaxPF said:
That price tag is why I like the mechanical pumps - $350 for a good rebuilt pump :deal:
Click to expand...

Mine was $347 for the pump and 8 injectors which included shipping both ways...

Rene
 
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