6 inches of lift?

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by txbartman, Dec 4, 2001.

  1. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

    Jun 1, 2001
    Likes Received:
    Plano, TX
    Okay, here goes...

    I am looking to get a trail rig. I want to put 38s or 39.5s under it (74 K5). I would like to do minimal lift to keep the center of gravity low. I am planning on trimming the fenders, but I don't want to have to remove them!

    I was planning on 6" of suspension lift and maybe 1-2" of body lift. With some trimming 38x12.50s oughtta fit. I run a 4" RC lift (full spring) on my current rig. Many gripe about how rough the ride is. Yeah, it isn't a Cadillac, but hey, its a truck! And I get plenty of flex as my 35x12.50s chewed the snot out of my fenders until I put on bigger bumpstops and the 1" body lift.

    So, how should I get to 6" for the new rig? I have been looking at the Tuff Country or Rough Country 6" lifts. RC is nice because (a) it is complete and (b) it is significantly cheaper. I have also looked at using 6" springs in front, and your shackle flip with 2" springs in the rear (the current springs are un-useable). But, cost wise, that is quite a bit more expensive than the full spring 6" lifts. What would be the advantage of going with the 2"/shackle flip combo vs straight 6" springs? Since either way I need 6" springs in the front, would I really ontice a great deal of ride quality difference using the flip in the rear? Would I even be better to look at 4" springs up front with 2" of add-a-leaves with the 2" springs and flip in the rear? Although, add-a-leaves have to limit your compression as the "thickness" of the leaf pack has been increased.

    I do mostly trail running here in north TX. Ruts, gulleys, water, lots of mud, some rocks, and some highway driving. What direction would you recommend I go?

    And, BTW, I was disappointed not to see ANY ORD products on 4WORs "under $300" list. I can't believe the HD greaseable shackles or the swaybar disconnects didn't make the list! But, hey, they are top on mine!!

    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
  2. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

    Feb 21, 2001
    Likes Received:
    CA (LA/OC area)
    The reason that the flip in the rear makes such a difference (over the front) is because the stock front springs are negative arch and the rear are positive arch. When you go w/ 6" springs all around you end up with alot more arch in the rear.

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
  3. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

    Sep 15, 2000
    Likes Received:
    Carbondale Colorado
    I think you're best off just using a 6" spring in the front, the add a leaf will stiffen it up too much. For the rear, we measured a shortbed one time with a 6" spring and then replaced it with a 2" spring and 4" flip and showed a 30-35% difference in flex, the 2" did a lot better. We didn't put in new bushings, both used rubber bushings, and it was measured going uphill on a ramp so it's a pretty fair test. And the owner was really happy with the increase in ride softness. this was on the teal colored stepside that used to be in 4WOR and 4x4Power all the time.
    I'd look toward this system and the 1" body lift and trim fenders till it all fits. I'm not much of a fan of lifts over about 6-7" on the trail, you can fit the bigger tires and as you go taller it gets easy to tip over and hard to make all the drivetrain and suspension systems work like they should.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>

Share This Page