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6000 header threads and still cant find an answer!

twoslo4five0

twoslo4five0

3/4 ton status
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Living in a dump, VA
I have 52s with the stock "fush" mount moved forward. On my old rig I have the shackle in the factory spot. I run a mid length header on the pass side with a 3 inch collector.

Today I went to put these headers on and I have all kinds of issues. I actually cut the collector off and the header is pointed straight at the shackle. There Is no way to get a pipe, collector, wrench or anything in there.

The question is what headers are you guys running (not shorties) and Clearing the shackle and bolt? I was thinking about going to an ord style fush mount but still don't know if that would solve it.
 
Check my build thread starting at post 439. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263098&page=5

Hedman Elite's, PN# 69830. They're not shorties...

007-4.jpg


Fitment at the shackle area.

005-4.jpg
 
my headers used to clear on my stock fush mount location but now its moved forward the collector hits, would the tubes on those long tubes get close to the shackle? I really cant aafford to order something and it not fit...
 
twoslo4five0 said:
my headers used to clear on my stock fush mount location but now its moved forward the collector hits, would the tubes on those long tubes get close to the shackle? I really cant aafford to order something and it not fit...
Click to expand...

I'd think they'd clear. Mine are nowhere near my frame.


From the front looking back.




Drivers side looking at the colletor. There is more room than it looks near the clutch fork.




Passenger side looking at the collector. No where near the shackle. Both sides look to be a straight shot back. Won't have to bend around the t-case.

 
I have a long tube on my drivers side right now, clears just fine. So that being said the pass side should be fine. The only thing that concerns me in your pic is if you moved the fush mount forward it could be tight where the collector and shackle would be. I hate to get a set and it be wrong but im running out of options.

your header Looks a hell of a lot closer to the block than mine, so that's a good thing.
 
Just put headers on today. I might have the same issue. I will find out tomorrow if the exhaust shop can make it work or not. If not, it's being sold as is. Tired of wrenching on it
 
I am running Thorley Tri-Y headers. The final collector is a 2-1 which is more compact than the typical 4-1. They fit fine. It is a bit tight reaching a couple of the bolts, but works.

699.78.600x400.THY-364Y.jpg
 
Im using flow tech long tubes. I think they were actually for pre 73 trucks but they still fit alright. They come down pretty far, collector clears lower shackle bolt by about 1/2". I cut collectors off and welded 3-2.5 adapters onto them and cut off any extra thread sticking out on shackle bolts.
 
I also ran the Headmen Elite Ceramic coated and had no clearance issues... actually I had no issues, EVER! They are the best set of headers I've ever owned.

One year later they still looked great. still had no issues or leaks! :waytogo:

Another advantage to ceramic coating is it keeps the exhaust heat in and takes it out of engine compartment, also keeping the O2 sensor nice and toasty! When I had a set of cheap rusty, leaky headers the Blazer would go Open Loop on highway in cold winter temps because the headers were loosing all the heat. No such issue with the ceramic coating.
 
Keitha said:
I am running Thorley Tri-Y headers. The final collector is a 2-1 which is more compact than the typical 4-1. They fit fine. It is a bit tight reaching a couple of the bolts, but works.
Click to expand...
I have always liked the look of these headers but I can assure If I bought a set my wife would put a bullet in my head lol
 
Im running a heater o2, Did the header already come with a bung welded in? My rig is just a trail truck and I don't mind paying for a set of coated headers but I also don't want to pay more for a bung or have to weld one in myself. My main reason for coated would be to keep heat and rust down as my truck gets driven 100 hours a year, maybe.
 
Pretty sure Hedman doesn't sell any headers with the O2 bung in them. At least that are commonly used on our trucks.

Absolutely stupid, you void the warranty welding on the headers. Love Hedmans stuff thus far, but the O2 bung issue is idiotic. They should be in the collector, and they should be finished however the header is (bare, paint, coated, etc).
 
So im ASSsuming (lol) that you have to move the o2 to after the collector then? Im running a heater o2 so that should be fine correct?
 
I ran my unheated in the collector for years without issue. Heated doesn't hurt, just FYI. And yes, I had/have a collector with bung welded in. I've since converted to a heated O2, but the difference hasn't been noticeable, other than I get it into closed loop sooner.

It won't hurt to move it further down the exhaust stream, but as EagleMark will tell you, there is some programming that can be done to "fix" the lag that is induced when the O2 is moved way down like that. Everything else the same, you may not notice the lag.
 
Well I pulled the trigger and went with the 69230's. I would have loved coated headers or stainless but just cant justify it for a trail rig. They will get stripped repainted and put on the grill to be cured before installing. Thanks for the help guys.
 
You'll like the way they fit, and how they'll make your life easier building exhaust for them. I know the coated are double the money, but it's not just the coating you pay for. The coated ones have 3/8" flanges and 14 gauge tubes. That's a hard combo to find at that price point, and for me it was worth the extra money. I went with a "no re-torque" graphite header gasket...can't recall the brand though. Thought I may have mentioned it in my build thread, but no luck there either.

Anyways, supposed to be the cat's ass for zero leaks. I won't know that for a while yet...but thought I'd throw that out there in case you were gonna use the old style paper gaskets.

I've had good luck with the VHT flame proof paint too, in fact I spritzed the pipes I built with it. Had it last three years and still look good on an old used set of headers I was running about 10 years ago.
 
what do you guys think is a good coating to get for all year use, what holds up best to road salt?
thanks
mike
 
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