71 C20 gets a 5.3

[NorCalKid]

K85 I checked the reverse light switch location for you today. I have it set right in line with the firewall. .25" more and it would fit back on there.

I have been looking into line locks, need to do more reading. Was hoping to do something using the original parking brake pedal?

Woops good call Stomis, what I was looking at originally wasnt what I ordered. That stuff is only good for 500psi. Just ordered up some russell powerflex good for 2500psi.

 

[NorCalKid]

That could have gotten ugly... Thank you

 

[NorCalKid]

Little bit a progress. Pressure line is swapped for a 2500psi braided one. In the top of the picture you can see a flex section I added to keep the damn exhaust together. 14 FF is in with some adjustable ranchos, just got in the last of the hardlines to get it plumbed and back on the road. Just need 2 hours and I can drive it again who knows when that will happen though...

Been thinking about a parking brake and am not too stoked on a line lock. My Nv4500 has a 6.5" diameter disc on the back by the yoke, think it might be a dampner of some sort? Do you think I can run a band clamp style brake on that like gokarts run? Its splined to the output but I am not sure what its purpose really is so I am not sure how strong it is

 

[K85 Octane]

Well, for now I left the column in the stock position. I'll get it on the road with my new wheel and tilt function, then chose to shorten it. My reverse switch will be used and is currently ~1/4" from the firewall. My positioning "bumps" on the column don't line up with the clamp at the firewall. BUT, the nub on the brake pedal bracket IS inside the column. So I may have inadvertently shortened it ~1" judging by how far the "bumps" are from the firewall clamp.

Hey, which port on the steering box is pressure and which is return? Looking down at it, which is closer to the firewall? I need to make some lines for my truck as well, but will have them machine crimped/made locally so I need to measure first.

I do believe that's a dampener. The new Jeep Wranglers do that too. You would probably be fine using it for a band brake, as long as the truck isn't moving when you use it. No "emergency brake"....only for parking.

I have no idea if it would hurt anything, but you could more than likely swap over to a regular yoke or even modify this one to accept one of those cable operated calipers. Maybe

 

[Stomis]

That could have gotten ugly... Thank you

Glad it didnt pop on you first! Im assuming the lines you got use some sort of JIC/Field service fitting.

And yes thats a damper on the back of the 4500.

 

[82355]

I would think the rubber in the damper wouldn't hold up well to being used as a rotor.

Martin

 

[Stomis]

I would think the rubber in the damper wouldn't hold up well to being used as a rotor.

Martin

Yeah it will eventually lead to failure Im guessing. I would be inclined to baby it, IE put it in gear, let the trans catch the weight, and then apply the brake as a just in case.

 

[sweetk30]

should have got a nv4500 from a 3500hd truck . the 3500hd is the 5lug front / 10 lug rear heavy truck like 1.5 ton or so .

it uses a drum brake on the rear of the tranny and the auto 4l80-e version is the same also .

 

[NorCalKid]

Glad it didnt pop on you first! Im assuming the lines you got use some sort of JIC/Field service fitting.
And yes thats a damper on the back of the 4500.

Well 37* JIC is interchangeable with AN so kinda... Russel makes a PTFE lined stainless braided hose and fittings rated for 2500psi so that should do it. really glad I didnt pop it, I ran it for 5 min or so flipping it around to swap the axle in

 

[Stomis]

Well 37* JIC is interchangeable with AN so kinda... Russel makes a PTFE lined stainless braided hose and fittings rated for 2500psi so that should do it. really glad I didnt pop it, I ran it for 5 min or so flipping it around to swap the axle in

Yeah but I think the JIC locks on to the hose differently doesnt it? Its been a really long time since I messed with my buddies steering orbital plumbing.

 

[NorCalKid]

Well, for now I left the column in the stock position. I'll get it on the road with my new wheel and tilt function, then chose to shorten it. My reverse switch will be used and is currently ~1/4" from the firewall. My positioning "bumps" on the column don't line up with the clamp at the firewall. BUT, the nub on the brake pedal bracket IS inside the column. So I may have inadvertently shortened it ~1" judging by how far the "bumps" are from the firewall clamp.
Ill measure for you again. We might have different columns.

Hey, which port on the steering box is pressure and which is return? Looking down at it, which is closer to the firewall? I need to make some lines for my truck as well, but will have them machine crimped/made locally so I need to measure first.
So looking down left closer to firewall is pressure side the other is return.

I do believe that's a dampener. The new Jeep Wranglers do that too. You would probably be fine using it for a band brake, as long as the truck isn't moving when you use it. No "emergency brake"....only for parking.

I have no idea if it would hurt anything, but you could more than likely swap over to a regular yoke or even modify this one to accept one of those cable operated calipers. Maybe

I have to look again but I dont think there is any rubber in there...

 

[NorCalKid]

Yeah but I think the JIC locks on to the hose differently doesnt it? Its been a really long time since I messed with my buddies steering orbital plumbing.

I am not sure, these fittings were different then a normal AN. They had an inner sleeve or third piece normal ANs don't have? Something like this...

 

[Stomis]

Yep that's a jic. Similar but all the difference. They're for field repair of equipment lines so a service mechanic can make a line to fit w/o crimps etc.

 

[NorCalKid]

Brakes are plumbed and shes back on the road! I had some dirt behind one of my front bleeders so that took longer than it should to figure out. Took it on a nice curvy test drive too, everything is a lot tighter and less boatlike. I forgot how fun she is to drive

I wasnt a fan of the weird kink in my clutch line so I found a hard line section and bent it to fit. Just need tie the braid to the firewall in a few spots to make it a little cleaner... and get a real patch piece for the firewall thats not so ghetto

Made a u joint steering shaft out of a mix of stock stuff and some borgeson joints. I tried XJ stuff but apparently they arent as easy a swap on the pre-squarebody stuff. I wasnt happy with the small amount of material available to weld them onto the stock splines so pricey joints was the way to go

I also got around to swapping out my reverse lights, they are a little smaller than stock but pretty similar style and only $10 each if I remember right. Put some LED's in there just have to find the right pins for the plug on the transmission to finish the wiring.

One more piece of the vintage air puzzle is in too. Need to find a new grill too, I hate the aftermarket one I took off

man I need a camera other than my phone...

 

[K85 Octane]

Funny, I was tackling the steering shaft today too. I picked up an XJ shaft and check to see if it fits. The steering box splines are perfect. I already knew I'd have to cut the upper joint off. CPP has some U-joints that are only ~40. Unfortunately I bought the wrong one a while back. Everything will bolt together, XJ shaft to CPP repo tilt column. Luckily, no welding needed.

Ohhhh I can't wait to get to that point in the build where I care about putting in HVAC lol Boy that looks clean up front

 

[NorCalKid]

Do you have a newer steering box in there? Everything I have read said the 67-72 boxes are a 36 spline and the xjs are 31.

 

[K85 Octane]

Do you have a newer steering box in there? Everything I have read said the 67-72 boxes are a 36 spline and the xjs are 31.

I wondered about that. It's a Series 500 from CPP. I figured it was a replacement drop in that had a quicker ratio. I didn't see anything in the paper work. I never looked hard at the original, it went in the trash when I stripped everything down. The XJ fits smooth on the box side. I need to cut it shorter and attach the U-joint the fat end of the shaft. The U-joint is 3/4-36 spline for my CPP column and 1" DD for the large side of the XJ shaft.

 

[NorCalKid]

I took last week off to catch up on things, got a little bit of truck time in there too. I got a hair up my ass to move the pcm under the dash. I couldn't get the plastic box I had over it to stay put. Made it a lot cleaner under the hood and very cramped under the dash. I got the vintage air ducts and controls in too. Those ducts were no fun to put in.

Put on some grill gap covers from lmc, then bent up a piece to cover the radiator gap and support the upper hose. Now I have a nice tool bench and I can't drop stuff behind my radiator.

I picked up a 69-70 grill for $60 on Craigslist. It's a little beat but so is the rest of the truck.

I swapped on some clip on door weather stripping too. They are for an early style s10, no rtv mess and the are fatter than stock so they seal better.

 

[K85 Octane]

All the ECM wires reached without a problem? That's pretty good. I picture having to put mine under the hood, as nice as I can make it.

 

[bp71k5]

Got more pictures of the seal after install? Maybe a PN too?