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72 K5 "About Time". Windshield Header Bow time.

Remember. All structural rocker and pillar components are complete. Tons of measurements documented. So out came the dash, then I said screw it. And I unbolted the inner fenders, bedside, floor, and step up plate. Lots of work ahead of me!
 
Since the last time I posted I buttoned up the passenger side. Then after all of the practice over there I tore thru the much further gone Driver's side. I still have a small patch to do near the trans tunnel around the inner rear most seat bolts. For some reason I do not have the picture of the floor the pan to firewall seam that I patched as well. The third to last picture is the beginnings of my seat bolt reinforcement pieces.
 
The last few weeks I spent time realizing how deep it all runs. I took out the dash to expose some pillar rust and allow easier access to the kick panels that need repairing. I removed the cowl as well for the same reasons. Naturally I will need the windshield header bow and will still have to repair some of the flange below the replacement parts. Then I got crazy and ripped the whole rear of the truck apart. The rear most body mount hole needs to be re worked and reconstructed as seen in the last photo. Craziness!!!!:eek:

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Bigblue7-2 said:
Thanks!!!


Can't go much deeper!
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Way to peel the rusty onion...! :waytogo:

I swear it might be easier to just buy EVERY reproduction panel in existence, and then transfer the VIN tag over to the new pile of parts. :haha:


-G
 
Greg72 said:
Way to peel the rusty onion...! :waytogo:

I swear it might be easier to just buy EVERY reproduction panel in existence, and then transfer the VIN tag over to the new pile of parts. :haha:


-G
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Tell me about it. The onion had many nasty layers. At least I will have a 80% original firewall and a 50% original floor and a mostly original frame! For now the progress will be slow. Ill be hitting the last few spots on the firewall and kick panels then I will get into the bigger stuff in the real cold months.

I was surprised as to how easily the bedsides and floor all came apart. Its all bolt together. My 87 was welded to the b pillar and the integrated roll bar. Should go together nicely, a lot easier on getting things adjusted if need be.
 
Bigblue7-2 said:
Tell me about it. The onion had many nasty layers. At least I will have a 80% original firewall and a 50% original floor and a mostly original frame! For now the progress will be slow. Ill be hitting the last few spots on the firewall and kick panels then I will get into the bigger stuff in the real cold months.

I was surprised as to how easily the bedsides and floor all came apart. Its all bolt together. My 87 was welded to the b pillar and the integrated roll bar. Should go together nicely, a lot easier on getting things adjusted if need be.
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Yeah, I remember feeling the same way about the bedsides. I posted photos in my thread about how it unbolted and all I had to do was cut a few small factory tack welds to lift them right off the truck. That was pretty cool.


-G
 
Definitely cool.

Depending on how business goes this winter and how and when my boat sells will determine if I get the bedside floor and inner rears this winter. Wifeys med school is coming closer and closer to an end but still sucking a lot of play funds. Then I will know where ill be living! Right now its all up in the air for another 15 months. Who knows I may be towing the k5 cross country. Greg, you moved the k5 across didn't you?

I hate not knowing my end game yet!:dunno:

It will all be worth it though.
 
Greg72 said:
Yep. Towed the K5 with my old '72 Burb..... and snuck a '69 K5 Tub inside a 22' Box Truck one time also.....

-G
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Thought I remembered that! Don't remember the box truck story though.

I just came across the post about the header bow. I'm sure I would have figured this out.... but glad I looked. I guess it does make sense to put the hard top on to make sure its in place. However, I have no way to mount the top with no bedsides !

Measurements and some sort of template wouldn't work?

Not the end of the world as long as they don't stop making them! I should probably just buy it
 
Ok. So as I get underway hopefully this weekend...I can't help but debate the hard top. Do I save it? When I had my 87 I never had it on during the summer. I also plan on never driving this in the winter more importantly the salt. I know they are hard to come by in good shape, but do I sell it and not tote it around with me anymore?
 
Do you have a soft top? I have both and fortunately my Brother has a shed the hard top is stored in, but if storage was an issue mine would be sold. If I could find a buyer?
 
TREA18 said:
Do you have a soft top? I have both and fortunately my Brother has a shed the hard top is stored in, but if storage was an issue mine would be sold. If I could find a buyer?
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I feel the same way. If storage and possibility of a cross country move wasn't an issue I probably wouldn't be debating this.

My end game is to have a bikini top made for personal protection and mild passing shower stuff. When its back on the road(many years from now lol) I want the interior to be made from a vinyl resembling leather and a water Prof carpet. Basically all marine quality. I have a guy who started his career in the hot rod industry doing interiors. He still does this but on his own now. To pay the bills he does boat interiors and canvasses too. So his custom stuff is awesome and his boat stuff reflects that as well. I don't like the full safari top look. So no matter what I want it custom done.

Long story short...I really do not plan on hard topping it. ever.

Some people, not from any forum, mentioned quite a premium for structurally sound tops. If I drive it around for the next 8 years I'm afraid it will bounce itself to death!
 
Bigblue7-2 said:
Some people, not from any forum, mentioned quite a premium for structurally sound tops. If I drive it around for the next 8 years I'm afraid it will bounce itself to death!
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I believed that line for a long time. The truth is: The only people that think hardtops are VALUABLE are the people trying to sell them.....!!! :haha:

Single-wall, double-wall....it doesn't matter. The cost a fortune to restore (something like $1000 in rubber seals) and still leak terribly....even when in perfect shape. Those rotten cab floors are all the proof you need...


Keep it if it helps you maintain structural integrity for the restoration / physical move. But once that's done..... get rid of it. Have a nice custom softtop made by a competent boat shop and you'll enjoy the truck SO much more than you ever would with a hardtop on it.


-G
 
Greg72 said:
I believed that line for a long time. The truth is: The only people that think hardtops are VALUABLE are the people trying to sell them.....!!! :haha:
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LOL:haha: So its not worth 10k???

No seriously someone once told me it would be worth 2-3 k

But u are right they seal worse than a crappy soft top, let alone a good one. UGH! Anyone want it? :D

Cruising around with no top is like nothing else. Way better than a convertible car! We need a detailed enough emoticon to show a topless k5!:k5:
 
Bigblue7-2 said:
LOL:haha: So its not worth 10k???

No seriously someone once told me it would be worth 2-3 k

But u are right they seal worse than a crappy soft top, let alone a good one. UGH! Anyone want it? :D

Cruising around with no top is like nothing else. Way better than a convertible car! We need a detailed enough emoticon to show a topless k5!:k5:
Click to expand...




Tell your contact to find you a buyer at $2-3K and you'll split the sale with him 50/50. :deal:

-G
 
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