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72 K5 "About Time". Windshield Header Bow time.

plain sheet.. never use galvanized... sh*t'll kill ya welding it..

ummm, coatings.... :whistle: that'll bring up many thoughts.... depending on how much money ya wanna spend.... I like zinc chromate followed up with a urethane primer.. the zinc is for "bite", the uro for rust..

some people just like a straight epoxy...

2 part products are always best, and, the most money...
 
ryoken said:
plain sheet.. never use galvanized... sh*t'll kill ya welding it..

ummm, coatings.... :whistle: that'll bring up many thoughts.... depending on how much money ya wanna spend.... I like zinc chromate followed up with a urethane primer.. the zinc is for "bite", the uro for rust..

some people just like a straight epoxy...

2 part products are always best, and, the most money...
Click to expand...

Gotcha on the death part....ive welded it b4...good thing I didn't do it to much!

Its not that money is no object, cause money is tight going into winter, but I wouldn't skimp based on cost. I am more concerned with ease of use. 2 part stuff cant be sprayed into tight areas or can you?

I want this to be better than new when I am finished.

There is no secret how close our garages are, so do you buy this locally or online?

Thanks!
 
2 part can actually be sprayed in tighter spots than a rattlecan with the right equipment, fine jet on a touchup gun works wonders.. but even a fullsize gun get's in most places... but 2 part uro primers are a minimum of about $130 a gallon kit...

that's what I run, DuPont 2k primer... my paint guy is albert kemperle on the corner of Clifton and rt 37 in toms river.. right off the highway diagonally from pep boys kinda.. https://www.google.com/maps/place/A...05,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x14801eabd0c60289

the zinc I use, and the guys in here use is rattle can, marine stuff by Moeller.. https://www.google.com/#q=moeller+zinc+chromate&tbm=shop&spd=12769559160010018231

I get it thru work for about $7 a can... but it can be had online or from a west marine and such.. it isn't as nice as a real 2 part zinc wash, but VASTLY more user-friendly, and cheaper.. you'll see it often referred to around here as Ryoken green...

if you've noticed the green primer on my tubebed build on Mutt, that's the green zinc... if you go a bit heavy with it, it'll hold up to weather without anything over it.. as a temp covering, that's what I'm doing thru the winter, till I can put uro over it in the spring when fully fabbed.. heck, Zim has been running around with his rig done in it for a few yr's now... :haha:


but it is just an etching primer that will need a primer over it on sheetmetal (hood, fender, etc) type areas... other areas like floors, parts, etc, you can topcoat right over it.. but obviously uro between is better...

you can read up on in my tech thread on it... http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262999&highlight=zinc+chromate+tech



if you need I could pick you up some cans thru work...





or.... you could just buy rattlecan or a gallon of rusto enamel primer at Ace hardware for $39.. ;)
 
ryoken said:
2 part can actually be sprayed in tighter spots than a rattlecan with the right equipment, fine jet on a touchup gun works wonders.. but even a fullsize gun get's in most places... but 2 part uro primers are a minimum of about $130 a gallon kit...

that's what I run, DuPont 2k primer... my paint guy is albert kemperle on the corner of Clifton and rt 37 in toms river.. right off the highway diagonally from pep boys kinda.. https://www.google.com/maps/place/A...05,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x14801eabd0c60289

the zinc I use, and the guys in here use is rattle can, marine stuff by Moeller.. https://www.google.com/#q=moeller+zinc+chromate&tbm=shop&spd=12769559160010018231

I get it thru work for about $7 a can... but it can be had online or from a west marine and such.. it isn't as nice as a real 2 part zinc wash, but VASTLY more user-friendly, and cheaper.. you'll see it often referred to around here as Ryoken green...

if you've noticed the green primer on my tubebed build on Mutt, that's the green zinc... if you go a bit heavy with it, it'll hold up to weather without anything over it.. as a temp covering, that's what I'm doing thru the winter, till I can put uro over it in the spring when fully fabbed.. heck, Zim has been running around with his rig done in it for a few yr's now... :haha:


but it is just an etching primer that will need a primer over it on sheetmetal (hood, fender, etc) type areas... other areas like floors, parts, etc, you can topcoat right over it.. but obviously uro between is better...

you can read up on in my tech thread on it... http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262999&highlight=zinc+chromate+tech



if you need I could pick you up some cans thru work...





or.... you could just buy rattlecan or a gallon of rusto enamel primer at Ace hardware for $39.. ;)
Click to expand...


Haha no I'll pass on the ace hardware stuff :haha:

I saw the Moeller stuff online. I like the ease of a rattle can. Plus why not start everything in Ryoken green !

I don't want to put you out and have to grab me some. I do appreciate the offer!! If I can't find any tomorrow I'll hit you up for a couple for the weekend!

Thanks for all the good info and your link! :bow:
 
Bigblue7-2 said:
Always looking to the seasoned guys for input on things...

What do we all like using for bare metal coating for rust prevention and durability?

When purchasing sheet metal for patches do you use galvanized sheet or just raw sheet?

I thank you in advance for your wealth of knowledge:bow:
Click to expand...

Do NOT weld galvanized metal!!! The fumes are toxic and will kill you!

Stick with conventional mild steel and a weld-through primer to protect the hidden areas from future rust.

-G
 
I replied from the email notification and didn't see that Paul had already jumped in with the critical info about galvanized....

Avoid chlorinated brake cleaner as a solvent for metal prep for similar reasons.

Doing all this CK5 surfing from a phone is tedious. :)

-G
 
Greg72 said:
I replied from the email notification and didn't see that Paul had already jumped in with the critical info about galvanized....

Avoid chlorinated brake cleaner as a solvent for metal prep for similar reasons.

Doing all this CK5 surfing from a phone is tedious. :)

-G
Click to expand...

It doesn't make it easy but at least I can respond from the top of a ladder! Helps pass the time :D
 
You can sand the galvanized coating off of the metal with a little bit of work, or use an acid to strip it. We have to weld it at work alot, and its some nasty stuff.
 
454Sub said:
You can sand the galvanized coating off of the metal with a little bit of work, or use an acid to strip it. We have to weld it at work alot, and its some nasty stuff.
Click to expand...

Definitely more work than I would want to do! Can't be as easy as quickly sanding off surface rust on new steel.

I picked up a 4x8 sheet of non galvanized today and also my box tube for my door bracing! Since I ordered up all my rocker area parts I am cleaning up the hinges tomorrow and bracing the doors. Hopefully there will be a little green showing up in there tomorrow or Sunday! ! :whistle:

I'll keep you all posted!:thumb:
 
"I like what we're saying here...." :)

Nice door brace, design looks awfully familiar.


-G
 
Greg72 said:
"I like what we're saying here...." :)

Nice door brace, design looks awfully familiar.


-G
Click to expand...

Just learning from someone else's experience! !:bow:

After staring at it for a while it only makes sense to put the lower brace in. Was it irritating doing rocker and a pillar?? :confused:

But I'd rather it be safe than me be sorry
 
It would make sense to pull a few dimensions off the door opening as well just to be safe. Across the door horizontally and the diagonals...

It's kind of a pain working with the brace in there, but you'll get through it. Remove torsion box first, then outer rocker, then inner rocker if there's any of it left! Finally you can remove the floor above the cab support, and the support itself....at that point you're at the "center of the rusty onion". :)

Remember: there is a rectangular support plate around the cab support bolt so when you go to cut the floor be careful not to cut through it (like I did)

-G
 
Greg72 said:
It would make sense to pull a few dimensions off the door opening as well just to be safe. Across the door horizontally and the diagonals...

It's kind of a pain working with the brace in there, but you'll get through it. Remove torsion

Remember: there is a rectangular support plate around the cab support bolt so when you go to cut the floor be careful not to cut through it (like I did)

-G
Click to expand...

I do remember that post....I'll be careful.

I'm not sure if I'll pull anything off just yet since I do not have my order in yet for all the parts. Or does it not matter and I can follow the seams on the outer rocker? At least to open up my first side. Should I do this?:dunno:
 
Having the new parts might help you figure out the cut lines and understand how everything is supposed to fit.

You won't lose much time by waiting. Removing the old stuff is the fast and easy part anyway... Get some Kleenex ready too. Once you see the extent of the rust you may cry a bit.

-G
 
Greg72 said:
Having the new parts might help you figure out the cut lines and understand how everything is supposed to fit.

You won't lose much time by waiting. Removing the old stuff is the fast and easy part anyway... Get some Kleenex ready too. Once you see the extent of the rust you may cry a bit.

-G
Click to expand...

:haha: yes I'm sure I will.

I do realize it's a rotten onion in the rocker area. I can see thru the boxes. It's a good thing no one drove it for 10 years!:eek1:

Both sides are ready for action now!

20141025_130239.jpg
 
Leaving the hard top bolted on will help a lot with keeping everything in place too. Loving the process. :)
 
ashman said:
Leaving the hard top bolted on will help a lot with keeping everything in place too. Loving the process. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks!!! I am too! I will probably just do some lower windshield area clean up tomorrow. The rockers will wait till I get my parts delivery!
 
I like this build a lot. It seems very hard to find something in Jersey nowadays of this vintage that isn't shot.... looking forward to seeing you bring her back
 
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