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78 sub build (sub is gone)

i like that deal there. I have the ord and chicken saw how close it sits to the oil pan. good thing I own a engine hoist for changing the gasket :doah:
 
hhere is my windstar fan set up need to finalise the wiring they are wired one key on hot runs all the time right now. i installed the sensor and have all the wiring but just have not hooked it up yet.
The mounts are from an exhaust shop as well as the rubber bushings they are used to hang pipes and such i also installed nutzerts into the core support. It makes it easier to remove and install and less hardware to loose.

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New steering finally going cross over, ORU knuckle
And new cross member by twisted enginering.
After this is all in i can finally do my front spring swap dodge 52" rear springs.
A couple pics of parts had the crossmember powder coated, painted the other parts.
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well according to the date on the pics, you've had those parts for 5 years. WTF is the hold up matt?:haha:

seriously though, are you installing those parts this weekend?
 
NOPe i need the box or sector shaft for the install. I need to hit pick a part or something this weekend maybe next weekend.
I also need to get the ball joints figure i would do both side's and maybe replace the original u joints.. Maybe not we shall see.
 
I see your putting in crossover on the ten bolt. Is the plan to keep that little thing with those monstrous tires?

I love the removable skins man. Reminds me of a trophy truck. The shock work is awesome and I love how much you did with so little welding.

Just a tip. If you moved that shackle flip hanger forward between 2-3in you'd get an ass load more droop. I dont mean to imply that you dont know this already but leafs are all about droop. They top out quickly from the spring rate increasing as they flatten out so the ideal way to get all the flex out of them is to set the shackle angle so they can just squeeze out all the up travel and leave the rest for a huge droop.
 
Stomis said:
I see your putting in crossover on the ten bolt. Is the plan to keep that little thing with those monstrous tires?

I love the removable skins man. Reminds me of a trophy truck. The shock work is awesome and I love how much you did with so little welding.

Just a tip. If you moved that shackle flip hanger forward between 2-3in you'd get an ass load more droop. I dont mean to imply that you dont know this already but leafs are all about droop. They top out quickly from the spring rate increasing as they flatten out so the ideal way to get all the flex out of them is to set the shackle angle so they can just squeeze out all the up travel and leave the rest for a huge droop.
Click to expand...
Im planing the ten till it breaks a joint or so and then move it to the k30 4 door for a tow rig and put cross over on it also seems a waste to have a 60 on a street pounder.(it was gone when i bought it)

On the shackle i moved it about a month after the pics but the droop was not increased by much. The spring will only arc out so much, after that point when leafes start to seperate you are just asking for main leaf problems. There is also no weight on that tire or spring force so it did not seam to make sence to me. The pre runners do this alot and about half the travel is all shock and no spring rate. I can pull about 6 or more of up im thinking more like 8 from ride height. I see alot of guys on here set thier's up all droop and no up travel i went in the middle. I also read that the shackle angle should be at 45* with the main leaf flat for best results. And where ever the shakle is at ride hieght it just is.
Thanks for the comment i might try a differnt set up in the future but for now it works really well especially at speed so it will stay till i get the front done.
Here is the current shackle angle.

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Got the new ball joint's in both knuckles and also got them cleaned and painted, ready for tear down and swap.
Also got the twisted cross member in about 70 percent need to tighten it up and drill a couple holes.
Oil pan hitting cross member
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Old and new side by side

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mnstrburbon said:
Im planing the ten till it breaks a joint or so and then move it to the k30 4 door for a tow rig and put cross over on it also seems a waste to have a 60 on a street pounder.(it was gone when i bought it)

On the shackle i moved it about a month after the pics but the droop was not increased by much. The spring will only arc out so much, after that point when leafes start to seperate you are just asking for main leaf problems. There is also no weight on that tire or spring force so it did not seam to make sence to me. The pre runners do this alot and about half the travel is all shock and no spring rate. I can pull about 6 or more of up im thinking more like 8 from ride height. I see alot of guys on here set thier's up all droop and no up travel i went in the middle. I also read that the shackle angle should be at 45* with the main leaf flat for best results. And where ever the shakle is at ride hieght it just is.
Thanks for the comment i might try a differnt set up in the future but for now it works really well especially at speed so it will stay till i get the front done.
Here is the current shackle angle.

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Click to expand...

Yep thats exactly where I dialed mine into. The shackle tops out right when the springs are completely decompressed. It might be a little bit of an easier concept on a truck like mine where 4 leafs is plenty for the weight of the truck :D
 
You have a two piece rear drive shaft? Is that stock? My 1988 has a one piece. I suppose beings you have an SM465/NP205, it is such a short combo, that GM put a two piece rear drive shaft instead of such a long rear shaft.

Martin
 
Stomis said:
Yep thats exactly where I dialed mine into. The shackle tops out right when the springs are completely decompressed. It might be a little bit of an easier concept on a truck like mine where 4 leafs is plenty for the weight of the truck :D
Click to expand...
Ya all i did was reverse the bracket i set it so i could swap it around like the 56 swap right to left. It just sucks dropping the tank and skid plate to do it. Im looking into a 2.5 flip to lower the rear a couple inches.
 
82355 said:
You have a two piece rear drive shaft? Is that stock? My 1988 has a one piece. I suppose beings you have an SM465/NP205, it is such a short combo, that GM put a two piece rear drive shaft instead of such a long rear shaft.

Martin
Click to expand...
You know i believe its stock its an x forestrty truck but i seen a later forestry truck 88 at the junk yard with a 465/208 and it was a one piece. Maybe when they went slip yoke they went one piece.
The 2 piece really helps with break over angle. When i did the rear swap/ axle relocate they frouned on a one piece that long so i kept the 2 piece.
 
Yeah, my 1988 Suburban was a TH700R4/NP208, but I blew that up and swapped in an SM465/NP208 combo, that used the same one piece rear drive shaft. My 1982 crew cab K30 has a 2 piece drive shaft with a carrier bearing, and just like you said, it helps with the angle. I would like to swap a two piece set up into my Burban. I guess I would also like to swap an NP205 in place of my NP208.

Martin
 
I grabbed the hydro out of the 88 for mine but ya i was lucky mine was 465/205 factory. My 83 crew cab is 2 piece also but the lengths our obviously different between the 2. Ill measure the front piece and cross member tommorow see if its the same might be easier to find and swap in.
 
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