- Sep 29, 2009
- Reaction score
- Clive Alberta Canada
Those are all there to silence the intake. Just another way to keep the engine quieter. A smooth tube will help flow and will increase noise. Airaid Jr MIT just replaces the tube, keeps your stock MAF location and keeps your factory air box. Or you can piece together your own with pieces from eBay or Amazon.the intake is strange with the additional chambers hanging off of it but id assume its for a purpose. Couldnt hurt to keep the MAF sensor in the stock location as well.
Those are all there to silence the intake. Just another way to keep the engine quieter. A smooth tube will help flow and will increase noise. Airaid Jr MIT just replaces the tube, keeps your stock MAF location and keeps your factory air box. Or you can piece together your own with pieces from eBay or Amazon.
I have Elderado calipers on my '70 K10. It led me to a chain reaction to get everything working together. My '70 does not have the same pedal ratio as yours, so take that into consideration, but I ended up going to hydro-boost to get it acceptable. Then custom parking brake cables.
I believe that the park brake will work reasonably, but it won't hold if you power through it.
What about sourcing an axle out of a newer truck that already has dics and parking break? That's what I've decided I would probably try to do on mine, but to be honest I haven't really researched it yet.If I'm getting it right you had a spongy pedal after going to disks with those calipers. Is that because the ratio of fluids being sent is different now and the pedal had to move differently? The kit I was looking at comes with it all. I've read lots of people's reviews saying things don't fit either, on almost every summit part so I was just wondering. The market seems flooded with c10 stuff, and as good as that is, it also creates a space for crap to be made.
i was looking at this kit but still shopping around, trying to factor in the price of kits with hardlines vs cutting and flaring the SS lines i just bought.. a nice bench top vice flaring tool, might be worth the investment to have for all future brake and fuel hard lines..
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Wilwood makes a cool incorporated parking brake conversion kit. But it's silly to have such nice brakes on the rear of the truck and stocks up front ..
What about sourcing an axle out of a newer truck that already has dics and parking break? That's what I've decided I would probably try to do on mine, but to be honest I haven't really researched it yet.
Yea I get what your putting down. For sure, that totally reminds me, I'll need a new master too I think. When I was buying one for the truck im pretty sure they were specific to the set up/ratio front and rear . Thanks for thatI don't remember which way the two different master cylinders that I tried, affected the results. It seemed like my original one had too much travel and the larger bore one needed more assist. I could always get it bled well enough to get a hard pedal, but it required flipping the rear calipers and using a block inside them.
Keep in mind that my '70 has a different pedal ratio than yours. I am mostly wanting to give you a thought of being prepared if the first results aren't perfect. And don't expect the park brake to work as well as the old drum brakes.
Don’t rush the outer panels... walk away! They will warp for sure. You’ll never fix it! Trust me.I hit the budget roadblock lately, and i had to pony up for another gear set. I couldn't get the right mark on the ring gear as i was trying to nail in the pinion depth, and I was getting nowhere, no matter how diligent I was... I figured hell, I'm just going to bring it in to a shop. Turns out the gear set I bought was a conical Set, and the Yukon locker is meant to use a helical gear set.. doh!
I went with a nice Richmond gear set, and they are going to throw it in for me since it's already there.... Tuition sucks.. now I guess that has two meanings since I'm an actual paying student haha.
Since I'm waiting on parts and I have some spare time before school starts, I figure I should start on the bedsides.. makes perfect sense to do now while I have the time. I've been putting it off as it's a can of worms, and I'm out of my league for sure.. it's definitely the band-aid in the salad of the whole project. But, it's gotta get shitty before it gets good, so I started at it.
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The inner wheel arch/wheel tub was worse than I had thought on this side. I wasnt preparing to replace them but I will order up the patches. I believe I saw them on LMC last time I was poking around. Lmc has the worst shipping ever to canada so maybe ill hunt on rock auto. I notice they have quite a selection of body pannels now. thankfully I do have the little wheel arch structural piece that helps tie everything in on either side.
Once I take the paint off I'll get a better look at any pitting, and trace out the smallest patch I can get. luckily the fuel tank door is in good shape so I can go wide around it.
Don’t rush the outer panels... walk away! They will warp for sure. You’ll never fix it! Trust me.