79' GMC -The Spruce Caboose -

Chevy305

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the intake is strange with the additional chambers hanging off of it but id assume its for a purpose. Couldnt hurt to keep the MAF sensor in the stock location as well.
Those are all there to silence the intake. Just another way to keep the engine quieter. A smooth tube will help flow and will increase noise. Airaid Jr MIT just replaces the tube, keeps your stock MAF location and keeps your factory air box. Or you can piece together your own with pieces from eBay or Amazon.
 
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bix

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Those are all there to silence the intake. Just another way to keep the engine quieter. A smooth tube will help flow and will increase noise. Airaid Jr MIT just replaces the tube, keeps your stock MAF location and keeps your factory air box. Or you can piece together your own with pieces from eBay or Amazon.

Thats a nice option, good to know. Thanks!
 

bix

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if i keep the stock intake ill add some more stickers to make up for the HP? I really dig the like of the stock airbox over aftermarket tubing. Theres some nice air intake kits out there but nothing id ever spend that kinda $$ on
 

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Today i wanted to throw the front fenders on just to sorta see how ill mount the air cleaner and the drivers side battery tray. I may be able to cut and weld mine to work if i cant find a re pop. I realized my one fender was missing the structural part that bolts up near the A-pillar, down in the door bracket area... and the other fender is bent up top where the curve of the body line is at the A pillar and windshield area. I then took my fender thats been rotting outside all winter and drilled out the spot welds and burned it onto the new fender.

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After getting the fenders on i threw a couple bolts in, I got a good start on this airbox mount. I had some scrap steel laying around and cut out a rectangle shape. Drilled out the holes for the two stock mounting nubs. I think ill try and find a grommet for the hole or cut and put a piece of rubber hose over them to fit the drilled out holes. I then made a template of the core support and traced it out onto the bracket.

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I think ill put two verticle strips going down with a verticle brace on either side.

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bix

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I'm currently looking around at disk brake conversions since I have to fork out money on all new drums, pads ect.. wondering if disk brake conversion wouldn't be more than a few
hundred extra. Are the elderado style caliper brakes as bad as people say? It's an auto so I'm not totally concerned but I would love a t5-t56 in this at some point.
 

6872xtc

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I have Elderado calipers on my '70 K10. It led me to a chain reaction to get everything working together. My '70 does not have the same pedal ratio as yours, so take that into consideration, but I ended up going to hydro-boost to get it acceptable. Then custom parking brake cables.
I believe that the park brake will work reasonably, but it won't hold if you power through it.
 

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I have Elderado calipers on my '70 K10. It led me to a chain reaction to get everything working together. My '70 does not have the same pedal ratio as yours, so take that into consideration, but I ended up going to hydro-boost to get it acceptable. Then custom parking brake cables.
I believe that the park brake will work reasonably, but it won't hold if you power through it.

If I'm getting it right you had a spongy pedal after going to disks with those calipers. Is that because the ratio of fluids being sent is different now and the pedal had to move differently? The kit I was looking at comes with it all. I've read lots of people's reviews saying things don't fit either, on almost every summit part so I was just wondering. The market seems flooded with c10 stuff, and as good as that is, it also creates a space for crap to be made.

i was looking at this kit but still shopping around, trying to factor in the price of kits with hardlines vs cutting and flaring the SS lines i just bought.. a nice bench top vice flaring tool, might be worth the investment to have for all future brake and fuel hard lines..




Wilwood makes a cool incorporated parking brake conversion kit. But it's silly to have such nice brakes on the rear of the truck and stocks up front ..
 

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If I'm getting it right you had a spongy pedal after going to disks with those calipers. Is that because the ratio of fluids being sent is different now and the pedal had to move differently? The kit I was looking at comes with it all. I've read lots of people's reviews saying things don't fit either, on almost every summit part so I was just wondering. The market seems flooded with c10 stuff, and as good as that is, it also creates a space for crap to be made.

i was looking at this kit but still shopping around, trying to factor in the price of kits with hardlines vs cutting and flaring the SS lines i just bought.. a nice bench top vice flaring tool, might be worth the investment to have for all future brake and fuel hard lines..




Wilwood makes a cool incorporated parking brake conversion kit. But it's silly to have such nice brakes on the rear of the truck and stocks up front ..
What about sourcing an axle out of a newer truck that already has dics and parking break? That's what I've decided I would probably try to do on mine, but to be honest I haven't really researched it yet.
 

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I don't remember which way the two different master cylinders that I tried, affected the results. It seemed like my original one had too much travel and the larger bore one needed more assist. I could always get it bled well enough to get a hard pedal, but it required flipping the rear calipers and using a block inside them.
Keep in mind that my '70 has a different pedal ratio than yours. I am mostly wanting to give you a thought of being prepared if the first results aren't perfect. And don't expect the park brake to work as well as the old drum brakes.
 

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What about sourcing an axle out of a newer truck that already has dics and parking break? That's what I've decided I would probably try to do on mine, but to be honest I haven't really researched it yet.

Yea I would have gone that route but now that I have this axle with 3.73s and a new Yukon duragrip I'm sorta into it for enough that changing directions to a ford 8.8 or something similar for a decent price, has sorta passed I'm thinking.
I don't remember which way the two different master cylinders that I tried, affected the results. It seemed like my original one had too much travel and the larger bore one needed more assist. I could always get it bled well enough to get a hard pedal, but it required flipping the rear calipers and using a block inside them.
Keep in mind that my '70 has a different pedal ratio than yours. I am mostly wanting to give you a thought of being prepared if the first results aren't perfect. And don't expect the park brake to work as well as the old drum brakes.
Yea I get what your putting down. For sure, that totally reminds me, I'll need a new master too I think. When I was buying one for the truck im pretty sure they were specific to the set up/ratio front and rear . Thanks for that
 

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After researching there are many kits out there, and not so many for the staggered shock and truck market, just mainly B-F-A body GM's.
I have been spending the last while creating a few investments around the property and also going back to college full time in april for 2 years, so i said screw it and priced out all the hardware for the rear.. going with drums is going to cost me about 425$ with shipping... So i went back to the disk brake conversion and I did find a guy down in ID that is fabricating brackets meant to be used with astro van rotors , d52 calipers, and they also fit the wilwood 4 piston calipers if you choose to upgrade later one. One main benefit to this was having another 1.25 inch thick rotor in the back. A lot of what i found in the kits had .50" rotors, or closer to .75" so the astro van rotors are a better option and cheap on rock auto at 60$ each for Acdelco rotors. I bought some new CPP calipers for the front and im going to re use my stock ones for the rear. I also have two new front stock rubber brake lines i can use to connect them to the hard lines, which ill have to fabricate a little bracket for once i get the pieces in front of me. I have brand new SS brake lines for the rear so once its all mocked up ill cut and re flare the hard lines.

The cheapest kit i could find was around 600 canadian. Im hoping to have the disk brakes done re using parts, for the same price as all new drums n hardware. Im not going to run a parking brake at the moment, but if i want to ill have to pony up for the calipers and fab all that up. At this point since im way underfunded and im going to be very busy for the next year my main goal is to simplify alot and hopefully get almost everything buttoned up, so all that is left is the holley PCM install and some minor touches.

Was planing on running an Aeromotive FPR on the firewal,l but with budgets being slashed, im going to run an aftermarket FPR/Filter combo with rubber lines / AN fittings. Which will cut the fuel system cost in about half.

Ordered a charcoal cutpile carpet for the floor, and also kilmat insulation for the cab, new pins and bushing so i can hang the doors once all that is in.
 

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The brackets for the rear brakes are about a month out, but I ordered up some astro rotors, and two rebuild kits for the front calipers ( which will go on the rear ) I ordered up some 17x9 us rat rod series 66 wheels from summit, I sold the rallies but kept the original GMC centre caps. I'm going to mount them on the rims since there is space to drill and tap them. Ill source out some tires but I think I'm going with 275/55/r17s all around.

While I'm waiting for all that, I got about 20ft of braided stainless fuel line and some AN fittings, along with some push on fittings. Only ended up using the one push style connector at the fuel rail. I have some rubber clamps laying around so I'll mount the fuel line across the firewall and tuck it away nicely from the header on the passenger side. i need to order up some fittings for the fuel pump end of things.

Also, does anyone know what this line goes to? It's connected to the manifold, then connects to a box on the fuel rail, has a shrader valve for pressure, then goes back to a push lock style fitting. Im pretty sure in 2007 and up they went to the internal regulator, removed it from the fuel rail like previous models, so I'm a bit confused as to what this might be. I could be wrong and possibly need to redo the fuel system but I hope not.

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I also got around to laying the sound deadner down on the cab floor. I went with the 80 mil thickness. The carpet should be here in the next couple weeks and I'll get that in with the bench.

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I was thinking I'd just get some Holley gauges to go into terminator but it's the same price or cheaper to buy a new dash insert, I'd love a dokota HDX but I'll probably go with the new vintage USA dash that's 3-400 usd cheaper.
I could convert the tail housing on the 4l60 for about 5-600 and keep all my old gauges..
Buy a box to convert the signal.. also around 300-450 bucks.



I need to fabricate a mount for the gas pedal. This little plastic thing is strange... but seems like it won't be too hard to modify the stock bracket.

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Chevy305

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The mystery line should be your EVAP purge line. You can remove it
 
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bix

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I hit the budget roadblock lately, and i had to pony up for another gear set. I couldn't get the right mark on the ring gear as i was trying to nail in the pinion depth, and I was getting nowhere, no matter how diligent I was... I figured hell, I'm just going to bring it in to a shop. Turns out the gear set I bought was a conical Set, and the Yukon locker is meant to use a helical gear set.. doh!
I went with a nice Richmond gear set, and they are going to throw it in for me since it's already there.... Tuition sucks.. now I guess that has two meanings since I'm an actual paying student haha.

Since I'm waiting on parts and I have some spare time before school starts, I figure I should start on the bedsides.. makes perfect sense to do now while I have the time. I've been putting it off as it's a can of worms, and I'm out of my league for sure.. it's definitely the band-aid in the salad of the whole project. But, it's gotta get shitty before it gets good, so I started at it.

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The inner wheel arch/wheel tub was worse than I had thought on this side. I wasnt preparing to replace them but I will order up the patches. I believe I saw them on LMC last time I was poking around. Lmc has the worst shipping ever to canada so maybe ill hunt on rock auto. I notice they have quite a selection of body pannels now. thankfully I do have the little wheel arch structural piece that helps tie everything in on either side.

Once I take the paint off I'll get a better look at any pitting, and trace out the smallest patch I can get. luckily the fuel tank door is in good shape so I can go wide around it.
 
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I hit the budget roadblock lately, and i had to pony up for another gear set. I couldn't get the right mark on the ring gear as i was trying to nail in the pinion depth, and I was getting nowhere, no matter how diligent I was... I figured hell, I'm just going to bring it in to a shop. Turns out the gear set I bought was a conical Set, and the Yukon locker is meant to use a helical gear set.. doh!
I went with a nice Richmond gear set, and they are going to throw it in for me since it's already there.... Tuition sucks.. now I guess that has two meanings since I'm an actual paying student haha.

Since I'm waiting on parts and I have some spare time before school starts, I figure I should start on the bedsides.. makes perfect sense to do now while I have the time. I've been putting it off as it's a can of worms, and I'm out of my league for sure.. it's definitely the band-aid in the salad of the whole project. But, it's gotta get shitty before it gets good, so I started at it.

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The inner wheel arch/wheel tub was worse than I had thought on this side. I wasnt preparing to replace them but I will order up the patches. I believe I saw them on LMC last time I was poking around. Lmc has the worst shipping ever to canada so maybe ill hunt on rock auto. I notice they have quite a selection of body pannels now. thankfully I do have the little wheel arch structural piece that helps tie everything in on either side.

Once I take the paint off I'll get a better look at any pitting, and trace out the smallest patch I can get. luckily the fuel tank door is in good shape so I can go wide around it.
Don’t rush the outer panels... walk away! They will warp for sure. You’ll never fix it! Trust me. :doah:
 

bix

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I found the pieces from Goodmark. Part numbers are RRP080 / RRP081.

Don’t rush the outer panels... walk away! They will warp for sure. You’ll never fix it! Trust me. :doah:


yea.. I can hear @tRustyK5 's voice in my head, so that should help haha. I think i remember him telling me a good way to go is about an inch down from the factory body line, as its rigid up there and less likely to warp.. but still very easy to im sure :chainsaw2:. I mainly wanted to open it up and see what all had to be done. Its definitely time to do some homework. Itll be a couple weeks atleast until i can purchase the replacement panels anyway.

Ill try and dig up his old k5 thread as i knew it had wicked pictures of the same process, but i think the era of photobucket attachments may be over..?

which truck taught you that lesson?
 
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The only way to end up with straight panels is to hammer and dolly the welds after it's ground and cooled. You could also try some wood standoffs on the inside right at the body line. Cut em so the standoff just slightly push the quarter out, then weld it like you normally would, slowly and moving around a lot. By preventing the panel from sucking in as the tacks cool you should be able to limit shrinkage quite a bit.

Remember, I'm gonna be there in 6 weeks or so if you want to wait for me to help you with it?
 
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