So I started ordering a bunch of parts, some of the stuff I had already as I was going build a set of tons for the T100 like a Dana 60 and Van width 14FF as well as 6 lug hubs from SAOR. I like good parts but I also don't have alot of money so I try to save where I can. I took the time did the research and shopped around and it was cheaper to buy bearings seals races etc separately than it was to buy in a kit. And it's nice that the D60 and 14FF share alot of the same bearings and races. Also for up front I installed the super60 axle nut to replace the std nut washer lock nut style as well as some wilwood calipers and yukon hubs. Axles are both loaded with 4.88 and Yukon Grizzley Lockers.
As far as steering goes I am running DIY4x high steer arms with ORD drag link and tie rod set up as well as a whole PSC kit supplied by ORD with ORD frame plate kit. A XJ steering shaft was used to replace the factory rag joint set up. PSC ram is not yet mounted.
Moving onto suspension. Front springs are 52" easy rides with over loads removed. I'm sure once they break in I'll be adding another leaf to the pack but went this route mainly because cost. I think I picked them up for $380 pair brand new. Figured it was worth a shot. Front is mounted to a DIY4X ABomb and DIY4X shackle mounts.
Rear set up I knew I wanted custom springs made because I wanted to move the axle back and I wanted to do it without useing a easy inch. Nothing against them except the fact in my head it's just another piece that does not need to be there. So called ORD ordered a set of stock Height (with my estimated weight set up) 54" springs with the pin offset 2 inches back witch makes it a total of 3inchs back from stock over the 52s. I did this in part because 1 I wanted the tire further back and 2nd because when doing the shackle flip (4" DIY4X Flavor) it actually swings the spring forward a bit and with the stock 52s and the flip during mock up the tire was forward of center and that buged me so I did the calculations and that's where I knew I wanted to move it 3" back.
Picture is with it actually mounted it the rear holes on the perch to essentially make it 2" back witch centered it like factory. I'll be moving it to the center pin to help minimize the trimming I'll have to do up front and will set me at my goal of 110" WB
I picked up some TMI beadlock kits as I've use them on pretty much every build because why not? Went on Ebay ordered the wheels I wanted then found a deal on some 40s and just said well I may not need them for awhile but that deal is hard to pass seeing at the time 40s we're going for high 400s well now I'm really glad I got em.
So not long after I built my bead locks I came across some pro comp trilogy bead locks that were stupid cheap IMO. Even 4wp said they could not match the price or come close to it. So I called the company asked if they had them in a 6on6.5 with 3.75bs and she said yup and quoted me the same price as I saw online so I ordered 5. not sure when they will end up on the truck but I have em just incase these TMI try shaking the truck apart. Way I see it If they run good I'll probably run em tell its time to get new tires then sell the whole package and put new tires on the pro comps. I did use 1 pro comp wheel for my spare. And no those red lug nuts are not what's going on it was more a joke as they were for my sons Dodge ram.
For those wondering I went to a 9/16 1 ton doge wheel stud so no need to worry about looseing a wheel because of tiny 7/16 factory studs.
im postimg screen shots of stuff for 2 reasons.
1 is reference on where I found the deal. Tho the price might not be the same the seller may still have the best price at the time.
2nd is for part number reference if one is doing the same or looking for the same.
i screen as much as possible with items I buy incase I need to go back and reference something seeing its a melting pot of parts.