That same $1200 could have you driving an NV4500 or a 4L80e. It's not a money issue, it's a priority issue.
CK5
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82 stepside. Thoughts and crazy ideas
- Thread starter KirsL
- Start date
That same $1200 could have you driving an NV4500 or a 4L80e. It's not a money issue, it's a priority issue.
This is madness. $1200 for fuel fittings, not even counting the tank?
What is wrong with using a stock double-pole fuel switch?
What is wrong with using the stock electric lift pump?
Hose routing aside, what problem are you having with your existing fuel setup? Replacing the whole fuel system is serious overkill if your problem was just a kinked line.
It is madness, part of the reason I haven't spent a dime on any of it. Some times an idea doesn't seem crazy until I put it down on paper and let others look at it.
If I do the custom tank valve setup. It will use the stock tank switch in the dash and function like a stock setup does. Just able to handle a much high fuel flow rate.
I out the current system together about 17 years ago. Well before all these off the shelf diesel lift pumps where available. So I'm trying to make a better system.
The line kinked mostly do to being a cheap line that doesn't really like diesel fuel or sitting for a few years. But I'm planning to slove that issue soon by driving the truck a lot more.
You're absolutely right, for once it's not a money issue. It's a time issue. Since Im doing this stuff after hours at work. I have to make sure the truck can move outside when Im done. So I don't take up a needed bay in the shop.
That said, after looking over everything and not finding a clear answerve as to why I don't have tc lockup. The nv4500 swap is looking better and better.
Do you need a higher flow rate? Lots of trucks (mine included) use the stock GM electric pumps for gazillions of miles without running short on fuel capacity. I don't recommend this, but I've accidentally driven mine around with the lift pump switched off (
). The lack of overflow is bad for the DB2's lubrication, but my point is that it still pulled enough fuel to run the engine properly, with zero lift pump pressure. Your engine should not need much of a lift pump.If you still want to have the fancy pump, it would be easier and cleaner to have one tank pump into the other with a jockey pump and skip the valves entirely. Unless you're actually running WVO and want to switch back and forth.
No plans to run WVO. The lift pump actually needs more flow then the injection pump does. I'll most likely end up keeping the pump I have and upgrading the lines themselves to a better material.
I mostly wanted to switch the pump out to run the same filters as I have on my dodge. But for now, I'll work with what I have.
I've thought about the tbi pumps but I'm not sure how they would handle diesel fuel. The current ultralow sulfur stuff is pretty hard on seals and such.
I mostly wanted to switch the pump out to run the same filters as I have on my dodge. But for now, I'll work with what I have.
I've thought about the tbi pumps but I'm not sure how they would handle diesel fuel. The current ultralow sulfur stuff is pretty hard on seals and such.
For what it's worth, I put a pile of time & money into my dual-tank setup, convinced I NEEDED the range. But I rarely found myself actually wanting to use the second saddle tank. 20 gallons was >400 miles of range even on a bad day, and I could have easily thrown some cans in the back if a special circumstance arose. My 35-gallon Suburban usually skips every other fillup when we're out trail riding with friends . 650 miles between stops has been sufficient thus far.
YMMV, of course.
YMMV, of course.
I'm not talking about a TBI pump, I'm talking about the stock electric pump used on GMT400 diesel rigs. Very easy to retrofit, and does exactly what a DB2 wants. Win-win!
That's why I asked if you needed extra flow. If not, the stock unit is a good one. Delphi FD0009 for a DB2, or FD0031 if you want a later high-flow DS4 version.
For what it's worth, I put a pile of time & money into my dual-tank setup, convinced I NEEDED the range. But I rarely found myself actually wanting to use the second saddle tank. 20 gallons was >400 miles of range even on a bad day, and I could have easily thrown some cans in the back if a special circumstance arose. My 35-gallon Suburban usually skips every other fillup when we're out trail riding with friends . 650 miles between stops has been sufficient thus far.
YMMV, of course.
A single 16 is a little small. Once I grab the brackets from FL I'll switch to the larger k5 tank and see if I need a saddle tank too or not. For right now one 16 is enough to start using it again.
Ah, ok. I see which ones you're talking about.
Fuel supply wise, the truck is OK with its current setup. I'm still pondering my trans issue and debating if I should take it somewhere to have it looked at. But finding someone who knows the older stuff is pretty hard.
If you are changing tanks, it would be nice to have a baffle, especially if you head offroad. I lose access to the bottom couple gallons every time I climb a steep trail.
Not a biggie, but it's one piece of modern tech that's nice to add.
Not a biggie, but it's one piece of modern tech that's nice to add.
You're 100% sure you have TCC power? Wire up a manual ground and see what happens. It should be easy to activate TCC on a 700R4. If not, check the pins with an ohmmeter. If you have no continuity, drop the pan and check the TCC solenoid. If this is the only problem, you shouldn't need a rebuild.
Unless you're looking for a reason to upgrade, of course.
Unless you're looking for a reason to upgrade, of course.
I think the tbi tanks come with that baffled sump area. Not perfect but better then nothing.
Tcc solenoid and tc are both new. Maybe a handful of miles on each from testing.
My trans has two wires. A blue/black that has power. And a green that goes up to the 4wd relay under the dash. That is the ground wire and I rigged a switch in for testing. Still nothing. I'll double check continuity to be sure but the wires should be good.
I've thought about swapping in a different trans, 5 or 6 speed manual preferred, many times over the years. This issue might finally force a desicion.
Tcc solenoid and tc are both new. Maybe a handful of miles on each from testing.
My trans has two wires. A blue/black that has power. And a green that goes up to the 4wd relay under the dash. That is the ground wire and I rigged a switch in for testing. Still nothing. I'll double check continuity to be sure but the wires should be good.
I've thought about swapping in a different trans, 5 or 6 speed manual preferred, many times over the years. This issue might finally force a desicion.
So...possibly an installation issue? Sounds like it's worth tracking down the wiring to see exactly what the problem is. Maybe the wires inside the pan?
I found this article useful in understanding 700R4 converter lockup:
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hot-rod-rescue-lockup-700-r4-torque-converter-without-computer/
So...possibly an installation issue? Sounds like it's worth tracking down the wiring to see exactly what the problem is. Maybe the wires inside the pan?
I found this article useful in understanding 700R4 converter lockup:
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hot-rod-rescue-lockup-700-r4-torque-converter-without-computer/
I'm usually pretty good with reassembly but I've made my fair share of mistakes too. That said nothing seemed "off" when I put it all back together. Pulling the pan is my next step to fully check the wiring.
I'll read through that. Might be something I missed in it.
So after reading through the link. This weekend I'll pull the pan and verify everything is good.
On a separate note. The last few days I've been checking out the classifieds for a nv4500. Prices are all over the place. From 550 for a 2wd version local to me, probably should have bought that one lol. To rebuilt ones on ebay that range from 1100 to 1700 with core charges ranging 450 to 1000
. Course none of them include the t-case adapter nor the t-case itself.
Course I've found a few 456/205 setups for 500 that even have the bell housing and such.
Basically prices are all over the place.
On a separate note. The last few days I've been checking out the classifieds for a nv4500. Prices are all over the place. From 550 for a 2wd version local to me, probably should have bought that one lol. To rebuilt ones on ebay that range from 1100 to 1700 with core charges ranging 450 to 1000
. Course none of them include the t-case adapter nor the t-case itself.Course I've found a few 456/205 setups for 500 that even have the bell housing and such.
Basically prices are all over the place.
So after reading through the link. This weekend I'll pull the pan and verify everything is good.
On a separate note. The last few days I've been checking out the classifieds for a nv4500. Prices are all over the place. From 550 for a 2wd version local to me, probably should have bought that one lol. To rebuilt ones on ebay that range from 1100 to 1700 with core charges ranging 450 to 1000
Course I've found a few 456/205 setups for 500 that even have the bell housing and such.
Basically prices are all over the place.
Yep. Prices are all over the place. What sort of Tcase and adapter would you run? A normal 6-bolt round-pattern 32-spline GM case will bolt to the output flange of a GM NV4500. No adapter needed. Swap the shaft on what you've got and you'll be good to go.
Yep. Prices are all over the place. What sort of Tcase and adapter would you run? A normal 6-bolt round-pattern 32-spline GM case will bolt to the output flange of a GM NV4500. No adapter needed. Swap the shaft on what you've got and you'll be good to go.
Well that makes it a lot simpler. I'd probably run either a 208 or 241 tcase. For the intended use, it'll be just fine. Plus it's not hard to swap out a tcase if I do end up wanting something different.
Obviously I have the 27 spline 208 that's behind the 700r4. But by the time I swap out the shafts and rebuild it. I could buy one. Maybe, have to check prices on those now too
.
If you already have a 700r4, swapping to the nv4500 won't change driveshaft lengths. All you need to do is find a 32 spline input for the 208.Well that makes it a lot simpler. I'd probably run either a 208 or 241 tcase. For the intended use, it'll be just fine. Plus it's not hard to swap out a tcase if I do end up wanting something different.
Obviously I have the 27 spline 208 that's behind the 700r4. But by the time I swap out the shafts and rebuild it. I could buy one. Maybe, have to check prices on those now too
I went from the 700 to the 4500 and it bolted right up with the trans mount landing in the same spot. Bellhousing mounting surface to t-case mounting surface is almost identical. I think the hardest part is finding the hydro clutch/hydro brake pedal setup and getting it under the dash. Not getting completely fleeced on the price of the pedal set is the next thing.
Your truck has the newer style of crossmember. If his truck is stock, it will have the flat-style of crossmember. W-style crossmembers weren't used until 1985 (and S-style were later, though I'm blanking on the exact date). So he will need a spacer if he wants to use the stock mount and crossmember. Not a big deal, but I don't want him to be surprised. Otherwise, you're right. Finding and funding pedals is the hardest part.
If you find a set in the salvage yard, ask to have the truck flipped onto its roof. Pedal removal is much easier this way, when you can reach downward into the dash instead of upward.
Very nice, not having to change shafts is a big plus. As for pedals, I did find this. Course the site says out of stock, but that seems to be the going price for a set of OE pedals.
https://americanpowertrain.com/shop...full-size-blazer-clutch-pedal-conversion-kit/
Stock crossmember far as I know. It's the flat style. A spacer is easy, I found a machine shop a couple blocks from work and I have a welder. So nothing I can't make
.I couldn't tell you the last time I saw a square body in a junk yard here in Jersey. It's been a long time.
I didn't even think about the cross member. I had the right one to start with so I took it for granted. Thanks for catching it.
Very nice, not having to change shafts is a big plus. As for pedals, I did find this. Course the site says out of stock, but that seems to be the going price for a set of OE pedals.
https://americanpowertrain.com/shop...full-size-blazer-clutch-pedal-conversion-kit/
Stock crossmember far as I know. It's the flat style. A spacer is easy, I found a machine shop a couple blocks from work and I have a welder. So nothing I can't make
I couldn't tell you the last time I saw a square body in a junk yard here in Jersey. It's been a long time.
I've seen that pedal conversion before. It looks like a decent alternative for the OEM parts that are getting tougher to find and increasing in price.
