Nice. The fact that a couple places carry the same part for the same price is a good find.
CK5
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82 stepside. Thoughts and crazy ideas
- Thread starter KirsL
- Start date
Nice. The fact that a couple places carry the same part for the same price is a good find.
Stock crossmember far as I know. It's the flat style. A spacer is easy, I found a machine shop a couple blocks from work and I have a welder. So nothing I can't make.
Easier than trying to fit a tall adapter into a later crossmember.
Some of you may remember how I butchered my way through the same issue. I'm not saying you gotta use my spaghetti noodle double tranny mount idea, but it did work. Come to think of it, that fit better than the later stock crossmember that the burb got.
I think I'd choose the spacer if I encountered that situation a third time.
Definitely gonna reuse as much as I can. That way I'll have more to spend on parts I have no choice but to buy.
The plot thickens some more. A coworker is fairly sure his brother has a hyrdaulic pedal setup in an extra cab. He's going to see if he wants to sell them.
The plot thickens some more. A coworker is fairly sure his brother has a hyrdaulic pedal setup in an extra cab. He's going to see if he wants to sell them.
Got the old girl airborne and the pan dropped.
Checked the wiring and the wires are good. So it's not a wiring issue.
I checked the ground and terminal connections for the newer lockup solenoid, checked good.
Last parts to check, the two pressure switches on the back of the VB.
Switch with the blue plugs testes "closed". When measured between the terminals.
The one with the red plugs tested "open" when measured between the terminals. I'm not sure if those are values I'm looking for either. And of course I forgot my service manual at home
.
The pressure switches are the only parts I can think to swap out for new. Of course Napa doesn't show as having them.
Everything else is checking out ok.
Checked the wiring and the wires are good. So it's not a wiring issue.
I checked the ground and terminal connections for the newer lockup solenoid, checked good.
Last parts to check, the two pressure switches on the back of the VB.
Switch with the blue plugs testes "closed". When measured between the terminals.
The one with the red plugs tested "open" when measured between the terminals. I'm not sure if those are values I'm looking for either. And of course I forgot my service manual at home
.The pressure switches are the only parts I can think to swap out for new. Of course Napa doesn't show as having them.
Everything else is checking out ok.
Crappy picture but those are the two brake switches. The one with the hose is for the cruise control. The truck does have cruise, but it has never worked. That switch dosent have any power going through it. One leg hot, push brake, other leg still cold. With key on. Nothing with key off.
The switch with two plugs. The larger bottom plug has power to it and across it. Both key on and off.
The top plug has power to it but not across it, key on. Nothing with key off.
So possibly need to find those as well.
Got the old girl airborne and the pan dropped.View attachment 364958
Checked the wiring and the wires are good. So it's not a wiring issue.
I checked the ground and terminal connections for the newer lockup solenoid, checked good.
Last parts to check, the two pressure switches on the back of the VB.View attachment 364959
Switch with the blue plugs testes "closed". When measured between the terminals.
The one with the red plugs tested "open" when measured between the terminals. I'm not sure if those are values I'm looking for either. And of course I forgot my service manual at home
The pressure switches are the only parts I can think to swap out for new. Of course Napa doesn't show as having them.
Everything else is checking out ok.
What is the ohm reading across the solenoid coil? Can you test it with 12V and see if it actuates?
I believe that the cruise switch should be making connection when you are NOT on the brakes, then open up when you step on the pedal, but I could have forgotten. But there should be a change somehow, correct?
Which solenoid, lockup? When supplied 12v, you can here it click. Ohmn reading was very low, 0.4
Yes, the cruise brake switch should work just like this.
I'm fairly certain this switch isn't going to bother the tc lockup.
Ok, so you can have high confidence that the solenoid is not getting its signal. The pressure switches and the brake switch are the only things left, if you think the wiring is good.
The brake switch interrupts TCC lockup. I do not have a schematic in front of me, but I thought this function operated off of the main brake switch rather than the cruise switch. It's worth digging up a factory schematic so you can be sure.
Looking at this the lt blue/black wire goes straight from the trans plug right to the 4wd relay. The green wire does the same.
Neither goes directly to the brake switch.
WE HAVE LOCK-UP!!! 
A worn but not fully faulty brake switch was the culprit. The resistance was of the switch was the issue. The old switch showed 1.4 ohms while the new one showed 0.02 ohms. Not a huge difference but obviously enough to prevent things from working.
A quick test drive and boom, lock-up.
Now onto some other little projects. I need to make a better turbo oil drain tube. The current one rides a little close to the manifold and the rubber hose likes to kink a little. So that needs an upgrade.
The A/C comp has a bad shaft seal so that needs to be changed out and recharged.
Some other general maintenance but nothing too crazy.
A worn but not fully faulty brake switch was the culprit. The resistance was of the switch was the issue. The old switch showed 1.4 ohms while the new one showed 0.02 ohms. Not a huge difference but obviously enough to prevent things from working.
A quick test drive and boom, lock-up.
Now onto some other little projects. I need to make a better turbo oil drain tube. The current one rides a little close to the manifold and the rubber hose likes to kink a little. So that needs an upgrade.
The A/C comp has a bad shaft seal so that needs to be changed out and recharged.
Some other general maintenance but nothing too crazy.
So while I'm waiting for the parts for the turbo drain to come in. I've been fighting some electrical issues with my Dodge.
I'v traced it down to a wiring harness issue. But I'm not sure if it's the pins in the sensor plug or the wires. I want to try replacing the pins first. Much simpler and cheaper to try vs changing half the engine harness.
Anyone have a good pin removal that they like? I'm good buying something g decent since this is probably going to be a growing issue with the truck. So I'd rather have something that'll last.
I'v traced it down to a wiring harness issue. But I'm not sure if it's the pins in the sensor plug or the wires. I want to try replacing the pins first. Much simpler and cheaper to try vs changing half the engine harness.
Anyone have a good pin removal that they like? I'm good buying something g decent since this is probably going to be a growing issue with the truck. So I'd rather have something that'll last.
I usually end up making my own at work half the time. The cat/Perkins/FPT love child engines have so many different connectors that I pull my hair out trying to find the “right” ones
My kid was telling me Snap on and Matco both have nice sets, he said they are more than likely rebranded Lyle tools so look for them. Also he said to get the set that is longer with a screwdriver handle. He says those are nicer to use.
Good deal
. It's definitely a issue at the one sensor plug. Doing the old zip tie to hold it tight trick kept the CEL off longer then without . So I'm on the right track.And I should have my parts Wednesday for the stepside. I'll finally be able to go for a longer drive with that leak fixed.
Over the weekend I managed to get the new drain made up for the turbo. Pretty straightforward setup. I brazed a -10an fitting onto the existing drain adapter. Then I welded one onto a new fuel block off plate. The 6.x engines use the same plate as any Chevy v8. Made up a short hose and boom, done. I may swap the upper hose fitting out for a tight bend, it's currently a 30° might need a 60°. But other then that. I'm happy with how it came out.
Old setup
New fitting on upper.
New block off plate. The black anodizing turned a nice gold color from the heat.
New line. I used the plastic lined version.
Installed. Works perfectly.
Oh yeah, I picked this up too.
Hydraulic clutch and hydro-boost. No mods needed.
It wasn't free but it was a good price.
Old setup
New fitting on upper.
New block off plate. The black anodizing turned a nice gold color from the heat.
New line. I used the plastic lined version.
Installed. Works perfectly.
Oh yeah, I picked this up too.
Hydraulic clutch and hydro-boost. No mods needed.
It wasn't free but it was a good price.
Hydraulic clutch and hydro-boost. No mods needed.
Wait...didn't you just get the 4L60 working correctly?
Wait...didn't you just get the 4L60 working correctly?
I did and for now the truck will stay with an auto. The truck needs to run and fixing the auto was the quickest way to do it.
I've been thinking of a manual swap for years. Plus the price for this set was too good to pass up. I could turn around and sell them for just below market average and still make some money. If I really needed to.
Still all the other parts needed. This deal just kinda fell in my lap and I had to jump on it.
