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84 6.2 M1109 wont start?

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Necred

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I hate to start off as a newbie with a problem but i do have one.
Recently bought this Blazer, havent driven in few weeks went out last night to crank & batteries were dead so i jumped it off. While i was moving my tractor it quit & i havent been able to get it started again.

I dont know much about diesels but i can read my book so i tried checking few things. Fuel coming from electric pump (added by PO), i discovered between tank & pump a slight leak, bad clamp,(replaced) i took off filter (rectangle on firewall) & turn over motor to find fuel coming from outlet side. tested shut off solenoid (pink wire)atop pump, it cycles with ingnition on when i slide wire on & off i hear clicking. i cracked threads on front inj to find fuel & some bubbles...What should i do next? How do i bleed inj? is it one man job or do i need someone to turn it over & me to open & shut inj nut when fuel streams...
thanx
 
Fix the battery and charging issues first. The 6.2 diesel doesn't need hardly any power to run, just 12v to the injection pump. (A battery can show 12v and still be junk, you have to get them load tested.) However, they need tons of power to start. If it won't stay running on the alternator and batteries you have, test them. The fuel system is most likely fine if you were able to start it after sitting for awhile, and moved a tractor before it died. Dicking with the fuel system is the last thing on the list of trouble shooting a 6.2 diesel.
 
Thanx for replying....The batteries were bought in jan11, so im confident they are good..Its spinning over now pretty quick..i read the search info...I just walked back in from breaking loose all inj (disconnected pink wire) turn it over 6-7 times about 5-8 sec apiece, all inj had fuel on them, sprayed wd40 intake tried cranking no luck. I traced the fuel line to pump,found some seepage, this truck has the 6.5 heads & intake so the fuel line is under the intake, i manage to get a 1/4 socket on clamp & turn it couple times, wiped it off & spun motor, leak appears to be stopped...I Have bled off fuel filter with cross screw,,i disconnected supply outlet line at filter to check filter clogging...Im at my wits end about what to do next unless i bleed inj again...
Should i bleed inj one at time, get someone to turn it over while i watch for air & tighten when stream appears?
 
I also forgot to ask, is this M1009 a 24v system or has it been converted to 12v? You might have some electrical issues specific to a CUCV that wont be covered in a normal repair manual.

You've confirmed the fuel system is bled and primed, why are you doing it over and over :confused: Thats the last step. Put the pink wire back on and quit messing with it. Next you should make sure your glow plug system is working. Look up ways to test glow plugs, there are a couple. You can bypass the relay and jump 12v straight to the glow plugs and try starting it. Starting fluids aren't reliable and will never work as well as the plugs. I've tried WD40 and starting fluid before and both have failed to start a truck.
 
24v....well i am confused , i have bleed inj twice..my justification is from what ive read diesels dont like air in lines & i thought maybe i didnt get it all out. I cracked nut, had someone turn it over, when i saw fuel coming out. i tightened it. im getting a puff of white smoke out exhaust when i try to crank it, i thought that represented fuel getting thur pump.
From what ive read online in warm weather glow plugs not necessary,,however, i did take out 2 diff ones, turn on ignition, ground threads and neither plug even got warm. These were installed new by PO about 3k miles ago..I understand there is a glow plug controller but i cant locate it , my wait light is staying on much longer.
 
Yes, diesels don't like air in the lines. You said you've cracked and bled them twice now. If you have white smoke, its getting fuel and the glow plugs aren't working. You still need glow plugs. Controller card is under the dash tucked up into the wires. You need to go over to http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/ the 24v system is a whole new can of worms that I could start a whole new thread about trouble shooting it. Your glow plug resistor bank might be toast, your controller card might be toast, your driver side isolated ground alternator might be toast causing your battery issue... they already have a lot of threads covering these issues.

Let me see if I can somehow send you my CUCV manuals... have them saved as .pdf files.
 
how can i test this controller? could i have fried my controller by jumping it off? I just contacted auto zone about one.
 
Necred said:
how can i test this controller? could i have fried my controller by jumping it off? I just contacted auto zone about one.
Click to expand...

Theres a guide on steel soldiers. CUCV glow plug controller cards are military specific, you can't get them anywhere. Thats why a lot of CUCV owners wire manual switches.
 
Dok is right. When the truck ran did the gen1 or gen2 lights ever come on or faintly glow or come on and off? Did the volt meter read normal? Test the alternators... If your truck is in its original 24v configuration, id leave it at that. Not so bad to work on once you learn it. Also, if an alternator is shot, i'd have it rebuilt, instead of looking for a replacement.
 
Ok,,, i had a chance to speak to a 30yr AF civilian mechanic today, he says hes worked on many 6.2 & 6.5s, and he has confirmed what some you guys have stated, the 6.2 must have glow plugs working for inital start up. I about to go out & attempt to test by using the jumper... ttyl


update: it has a bad controller, i had to order one, in meantime ill make plans to change it over to a manual one....thanx for the input,,,im a happy camper....
 
Last edited:
Necred said:
Ok,,, i had a chance to speak to a 30yr AF civilian mechanic today, he says hes worked on many 6.2 & 6.5s, and he has confirmed what some you guys have stated, the 6.2 must have glow plugs working for inital start up. I about to go out & attempt to test by using the jumper... ttyl


update: it has a bad controller, i had to order one, in meantime ill make plans to change it over to a manual one....thanx for the input,,,im a happy camper....
Click to expand...

Wiring a manual one takes about 5 minutes tops. Splice a wire into the light blue wire coming off the controller card, take that and wire it to one spade of a mementary ON push button switch, wire the other spade to ground. Done.

This lets you use the card, AND have a manual back up. I just use a manual switch, I don't even have a card in the holder.

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