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85 K30/M1028 Just some simple stuff

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ridenby

ridenby

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
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357
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Location
kentucky
ridenby submitted a new Build:

85 K30/M1028 Just some simple stuff

Finally got a decent truck to start with. 6.2 runs well ,previous owner had changed glow plugs/relay . Put a dash pad in it. I changed it to straight 12volt. Added electric fuel pump,switched stock filter out for a spin on. Added a 4 inch lift by using ORD shackle flip in rear,their custom springs in front. Did crossover steering also. Still going to get steering box brace, motor/trans mounts,engine crossmember done in near future. Also have rear disc conversion on hand,just going to wait till rears wear out or break,never had parking brakes that worked before,these do. Not much of a build.
What I started with.View attachment 228221
Where I am today.
View attachment 228222
The wheels are from Trailworthy Fab.
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Read more about this build here...
 
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Have not done much besides drive her. Life has been in the way. Did get winch and mount installed. And took it offroad for the first time. Worked well/ The front has a "Gov-loc" in it,pretty weird acting traction aid. Co
uple of pics. The winch mount. 102_1286.JPG 102_1287.JPG
Some of the trip.102_1290.JPG 102_1308.JPG
 
I have one in the driveway. Snapped the cam in the 6.2 towing a Blazer. After the Blazer I'll get on it next.

Just need to fix the stuck manual window on the Blazer . . . off to the help forumn.
 
Found a building with an eight foot door,rented it. Putting ol girl in for awhile,get the rear brakes swapped to disc.A few other things,keep her out of the salt and chloride some.
 
The red one I just acquired. M1008A1, 73xxx miles showing, got it from an estate. Fellow that had it was a gadget junkie. I think it is 6.2 with added turbo. 14b,60,TH400. Starts good,runs out good. Needs rotor,caliper right side. Left was done by PO. Other than cab corners have seen no heavy rust.

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unless you did crazy swapping in the front axle with guts from a late model van rear axle then the front dosnt have a gov-loc unit .

the military on some of them trucks had a light duty trac-lok installed = posi unit not ment for big tires and heavy offroad use . the power-lok on the other hand was 1 step down from a detroit locker .

nice rigs you have there .
 
sweetk30, after opening front it appears to be a trac-loc? Some sort of limited slip. Gonna see how the newest truck runs out.
 
After fooling with the Eldo calipers I have thrown in the towel. Could not get them to work correctly or what I considered correct. Switched to 80-85 K20 calipers,now the right keeps leaking from piston. Damn. I will get it figured.
 
Got disc done...finally. Kinda having thoughts of driving this one and flogging the red devil. Been going back and forth. Could be worse. Looking at pics,they are before moving caliper to rear of axle. You get the idea.

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So I'm looking at doing this to my 14 bolt, would you say the performance gain is worth the effort and expense at this point in your opinion?
 
if you do lots or mud its a HUGE payback in less clean up and better service times.

if you do NOT need e-brake to pass a state motor vehicle inspection then your good .

years ago i did a disk brake swap on my k30 with 38" tires . it was a huge change for the good . i also bypassed the stock brake proportion valve and tee fittinged the front and adjustable the rear feed and dialed it in perfect for my needs and likes. now you can just do this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/
 
ridenby said:
I like the way it stops now. Much cleaner? looking. I did change Proportion valve from PV2 to PV4. I started with https://lugnut4x4.com/product/14-bolt-full-float-rear-disc-conversion-kit/ with Eldorado calipers. Was not smart enough to get them right. Switched to 1980 K20 calipers,work like a charm.
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I used the Eldorado calipers and they work great and retain the cable e brake. the trick is you can't bleed them well without a vacuum. if you do the two person pump, open/close bleed job you'll never get the bubble out that gets trapped in the caliper. if you use a vacuum on the bleeder, you can bleed the whole truck including master cylinder in 15 minutes.

@ridenby good that you got yours figured out, the above info is for anyone doing this swap that finds a 78 caddy eldo in the junkyard and wants to go that route.

as for @UpnAdam , yes...its totally worth it. easier maintenance, improved performance and you can retain your e-brake with the 1978 caddy Eldorado calipers. I did my swap for under $200 using all new parts. you could probably buy the calipers used if you have time to look. most caliper brackets for the 14ff are $50 and work with multiple caliper types. you'll need to source the bracket, flex lines, caliper, rotor, pads and wheel studs at minimum.
 
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