I have sent far less rusty trucks to scrap.
That old thing is definitely getting a second chance, I can’t send it to a junk yard.
CK5
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91 K5 Inner side panel rust repair
- Thread starter Squarebodymedic
- Start date
That old thing is definitely getting a second chance, I can’t send it to a junk yard.
83blazertexas
Registered Member
I'm doing this after I get my motor rebuild finished. Here's to second chances. I'll be following your progress on how you fix that inner panel where the lower seatbelt attaches.
83blazertexas
Registered Member
Here's some pics of mine currently. It's about 1K to buy every part on this page for 1983 k5 blazer. https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-91-chevy-gmc/body-panels/csb-1973-91-interior-steel-body-supports
Where did you get the cab corners from?
I messaged AMD recently and they indicated that they have the panels behind the B pillar and in the corner in the works. If everyone will start sending them messages expressing need, it might speed things up a little bit.
83blazertexas
Registered Member
done... They just simply told me "We don't have that piece but thanks for contacting us." Looking to start this exact project on mine early next week.
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83blazertexas
Registered Member
Any updates on this project? Starting mine this week.
Squarebodymedic
Registered Member
Definitely worse than mine but not by much !! You get the RUSTY metal award LOL, Nothing that several patch panels can fix along with some fabricated patch panels that aren't available. My floor is done and the cab corners are on along with the inner and outer rocker panels beneath the doors. I also have my left box side on and it positioned well at the back and then kind of lost its way over the wheel well bolt holes, so some of the front sheetmetal holes will have to be redrilled to make it fit right and seal. I did buy new floor pans but after we got them and saw that they didn't have all the angles, bumps and curves that the factory pans had in them, we just cut repair flat panels out of them and removed the rust and welded and riveted them in place. Outer boxed floor areas had to be fabricated on the drivers side along with the lower B pillar post areas. No worry about the lower seat belt nut as 01 seats are installed in the blazer for in-seat seat belts and power seats (I'd really like to find a set of newer seats and end up with heated seats in the winter time, even though it will probably never see the salted roads of Iowa !!!).
I have sent far less rusty trucks to scrap.
Once the floor and sidewall on the driver side is done we will focus on the passenger side where the rust isn't quite as bad but oh believe me it's still rusty over there LOL, The passenger box side will be cut off from the B pillar post to the mid point between the B pillr and the front of the rear wheel well opening. We figure as bad as the drivers side was behind the box side, we really need to open the passenger side up and take a peak. at it and decide the best way to repair it after clean up !! Then we will KBS products cover the areas with their "Blacktop" sealer and their top coat black paint and sealer. SO, no mo rust on this K5 !!!!!
Frame is dustless blasted, sealed and painted with KBS products, and it is up on jack stands waiting for some extra hands to wire it and put all new stainless steel lines on it for brakes, fuel and transmission lines. New fuel tank painted with KBS products paint (see a pattern developing here) along with new tank straps and a new fuel pump, the fuel system should be as good as new when this Blazer came down the assembly line.
The 489 stroker big block is built and I look forward on taking it to Des Moines, IA. and breaking it in on the dyno and finding out what it makes for horse power and torque !! It should be a monster with good manners when all is said and done !!
Finally, trying to decide on my center body color, factory was a medium grey metallic, but I also have the urge to look at 2 other colors, 2020 GM pacific blue (the wife has a Equinox in this color, very metallic and shiny in the sun) or some kind of dark metallic red/burgundy color. I've got time to decide I guess, I can either leave the inside grey with these colors or change it out to red or blue depending on my color choice.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot, I just picked up a Dana 44hd front axle and a corporate ff14 bolt rear axle that I am going to put rear disc brake kit on the 14. Mo Money, oh my aching check book lol
I have been getting more notifications of new sheet metal tbey are offering. New core support just came out along a couple of grilles. Guess I'm gonna have to keep bugging them lol.
Squarebodymedic
Registered Member
Who are they, I have looked through many suppliers and nobody makes the B pillar post areas and no one seems to have any box sides anymore. You would think that the boxed foot area on the rear floor would be easy to bend and spot weld up as a replacement part for the back seat floor area.
83blazertexas
Registered Member
Its like onion for sure. just layers and layers and layers of rust. But here's my progress on the same are. It went clean through outer panel so had to patch that as well.
Wondering if anyone found a place that makes the B pillar supports yet? I am about to try and replace mine on my 91 and might have to fabricate one! Also do you know if I need to brace anywhere bc I have to replace about 6" of the floor support going too the brace. I definitely don't want the cab to shift! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Gentleman Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I would suggest leaving as much of the floor in place as you can while replacing the Cab support in the pic above. You could brace under the outer rocker with a jack and a piece of wood/angle iron whatever to help hold the load when you cut it out. If the rear cab/floor support on that side is shot too (they typically are with that kind of rust) you might want to replace that first to add some more stability. I just went through that too. #Ihaterust It’s a good time to beef up the weak factory floor and bracing while your in there.
Hey Gentlemen Jimmy, I have braced the fender on the left from the floor and used wood to brace from the floor down to the frame. I also put a brace running from the A pillar to the B pillar top and bottom. My rockers inner and outer are rusted terribly. I had already cut out the rocker and slowly kept cutting until I found this mess. I left as much floor as I could. The inner rocker is rusted so bad I don't think there will be any support from it when I cut that support on the floor to my B pillar thats when it gets shaky! Thanks for the advice and I will definitely beef it up like you said.
That patch job you did on yours looks great. I am ready to get to that point asap! Lol
Gentleman Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Thanks. It sounds like your braced up good for what you’re working with. Like Cash said, “one piece at time!” You’ll be happy you took the time to make these repairs when it’s all done.
I think the original design of the floor braces and rockers leads to problems... any water that gets into the front and rear braces drains right into the rockers that are pinch welded all the way across and no where for the water to go. I put a couple of V shaped notches on the inner rockers for some drainage.
On A side note I just got my seat upholstery finished and threw it in this weekend for some motivation to keep going. I am happy how it turned out.
I think the original design of the floor braces and rockers leads to problems... any water that gets into the front and rear braces drains right into the rockers that are pinch welded all the way across and no where for the water to go. I put a couple of V shaped notches on the inner rockers for some drainage.
On A side note I just got my seat upholstery finished and threw it in this weekend for some motivation to keep going. I am happy how it turned out.
Those seats are nice! They look comfortable like a recliner. Thanks for the help!
Me too lol!!
