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91 Suburban, Finished Headlight mod

Yah, someone already repainted the hood all crappy.

I'll get around to it sometime......
 
Nice score man!

Still got that while K1500 Blazer from years back?

I know where there's a good shape '82 Suburban K10 diesel sitting near me...from Texas...ver little rust...guy just wants it gone...price is a third what he was asking 6 months ago...


...wife would kill me...:crazy:
 
AJM, Still have the k1500 blazer, it will be around for a long time. Current DD.

Ok, so that exhaust gasket started to leak again. Got under there to snug the bolts down, broke a stud off in the manifold. After fighting with it for a couple hrs, i pulled the y pipe all the way back to the cat so i could work at removing the stud. In the process a stud broke on the passenger side too. At this point i was way over my head!

Tried to remove both, ended up not being able to get the end of the stud out. Tried to tap drill and retap one, failed, so i drilled it out bigger and will attach with a nut and bolt probably. May tap it for a helicoil, but the main problem is even with teh downpipe removed, i can't turn a tap up in there. Funny how a 5 min attempt to fix turns in to 8+ hrs. :(

Hope to bolt it back together tomorrow. Trying to decide if i should use the proper studs for the unharmed holes, or if it would be safer to just use grade 8 on everything. Kinda nervous about breaking stuff again....hopefully if i'm careful it should be ok. And i know at this point, i'll be happy to get it back together.....it will probably leak worse than before, as the other side downpipe top flange got kinda bent up.
 
I snap one off when doing a tranny pull in my 87 Jimmy. I had a friend that had a springloaded center punch. I used that to get a good starting point for the drill bit. Drill the hole to just under the threads and tap it.

I did have to use a few long 1/4 inch extentions on the tap so I could turn it. But it the end it work out ok.
 
Thats what i finally ended up trying to use on the tap too. But i think my hole was a little off, so it got messed up. Luckily, if this doesn't work, i can still drill it out to the X size and use teh 3/8's helicoil.
 
Yep these body styles are the best IMO. Heres mine, My dad ordered it new from a dealership with all the options that he wanted in fact he ordered it with abench front seat becasue when he bought it i was only 3yo. Not too long ago he handed it down to me.:bow:

caddy build up 002.jpg
 
dhcomp said:
Hey Guys, just thought i'd share my excitement.

I sold the e12 BMW i had, and purchased this burb. I'm super excited, cause i thought it had sold, and it turned out it was still for sale.

If the 91 Crew Cab K30 is the holy grail of 1 tons, this thing is the holy grail of suburbans.

1991, last year of old body style.
350, runs great, MUST have been rebuilt recently....need to check
4l80e, rebuilt, only year of this trans in this burb.

No rust anywhere, 195k on body, body not perfect, decent interior.

I'll post up more info later. THis truck has always been a dream of mine, ever since my parents sold the 90 i grew up in.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=54330&stc=1&d=1190237623
sweet!!!what a beast.i give it four more years and it looks nothing like a sub.:haha: :haha:
 
boggerless said:
sweet!!!what a beast.i give it four more years and it looks nothing like a sub.:haha: :haha:



Haha, i'll bet otherwise. I'm too broke to do any major mods, plus i cringe at the thought of cutting straight sheet metal. Maybe in the future it will be a tow rig for a trail rig, but for now, i plan to travel in it.

Took the running boards off today, pounded down a bump in the front bumper, got the exhaust back together and sealed up, and polished the front plastic lenses that were oxidixed.

Oh, and i changed the oil.

What is the legality of taking off the muffler? I want straight pipe it with flex to replace the muffler, but its welded on right now. I want to do it, but can't afford a ticket if its not legal!

It was a much happier wrenching day today!
 
Unless they've changed the laws in CA since I left it was still pretty much had to have the cats, pass emissions, and be under the decible limits. Since the mufflers don't help you pass emissions they can be removed as long as it isn't too loud.
 
ok, cool, i figure wiht the legnth of the burb pipes, it probably wont' be too loud.....
 
If it's too loud consider a Cherry Bomb. Straight through and quieter than just pipe.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
If it's too loud consider a Cherry Bomb. Straight through and quieter than just pipe.

i thought of that.......cause they are cheap. Might give it a try, just not to excited to cut the exhaust off......cause it is all welded behind the cat.
 
dhcomp said:
Thats what i finally ended up trying to use on the tap too. But i think my hole was a little off, so it got messed up. Luckily, if this doesn't work, i can still drill it out to the X size and use teh 3/8's helicoil.

I hear ya. If not for that spring loaded center punch I don't think I could have gotten the center of the bolt. Just eyeballing center and then push in the punch. Hit would click on the spring and after severl pushes it made a nice little dent in the broken bolt. I used a very small bit to get the hole going and then went with the size just under the thead size.

I owe to my buds punch and some luck.

And that blue sub that your dad passed on to you is very clean!
 
Ok, so got back from the first road trip with this thing.

5 ppl, back loaded wiht gear, 70-75mph wiht the air on, 14.8mpg! So what if its underpowered!

Figured out it has a decent programable audiovox alarm, just need to wire up the door lock harness so the keyless entry works. Got the harness today.

Also ordered relays to complete that and the headlight mod.

Now some questions. THe trip meter on the odometer, do you really have to turn it once for every mile to reset it? After i gave myself a blister and only turned it back 100 miles, i chucked my drill onto it and spun it back. :haha:

When i get new door panels, im gonna lube all the sticky windows and locks. Whats the best approach to this? Should i try to degrease them first? Is spray white lith the best lube, or is there somethign better? One lock sticks bad, and most of hte windows are slow.

Thanks guys!
 
Dang that burb must be in great shape. I'm not sure some of them were that good from the factory. I'm not sure what mine gets, but I know it wasn't that good two years ago.
 
I used this "jiggaloo" or "jiggalube" stuff on all my power door locks, and window junk.

It's a liquid graphite, and everything started working again.

Even the window I thought was busted for good is working perfectly now!

And the door locks are working good too.

I like this stuff because it dries up, and leaves a thin coating. It's like a spray paint almost. Just point and shoot, and after it dries, random crap, and grit doesn't stick to it.
 
Clod_King said:
I used this "jiggaloo" or "jiggalube" stuff on all my power door locks, and window junk.

It's a liquid graphite, and everything started working again.

Even the window I thought was busted for good is working perfectly now!

And the door locks are working good too.

I like this stuff because it dries up, and leaves a thin coating. It's like a spray paint almost. Just point and shoot, and after it dries, random crap, and grit doesn't stick to it.

Did you clean up the pivot points and window glides before you sprayed this stuff on? If so, what did you use? I'll try it out! thanks!
 
dhcomp said:
Now some questions. THe trip meter on the odometer, do you really have to turn it once for every mile to reset it? After i gave myself a blister and only turned it back 100 miles, i chucked my drill onto it and spun it back. :haha:

Push and turn at the same time ;) (I think that's how mine worked?)
 
Fubeca said:
Push and turn at the same time ;) (I think that's how mine worked?)


Thats what i am doing. But i have to push and turn it one turn for every mile.:eek1:
 
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