Still looking good man
I would like to own one of these still also. I have always liked them.
I would like to own one of these still also. I have always liked them.
CK5
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97 Tahoe 2 Door
- Thread starter skunked
- Start date
I just finished going through the engine in my 97. The intake gaskets were leaking so I swapped them out, put an updated spider pod into it and replaced the distributor, plugs and wires. Also gave it an oil change so the crap that was in lifter valley would be removed.
Runs great again but it has a sloppy timing chain. Setting the cmp offset the closest I can get it is -8 degrees.
I also replaced the ignition switch so it would quit turning itself off randomly haha
I've got a prospective buyer lined up for it, so it may be gone later this week. If not I may start daily driving it to save the miles on my 1 ton.
Runs great again but it has a sloppy timing chain. Setting the cmp offset the closest I can get it is -8 degrees.
I also replaced the ignition switch so it would quit turning itself off randomly haha
I've got a prospective buyer lined up for it, so it may be gone later this week. If not I may start daily driving it to save the miles on my 1 ton.
A few weeks ago I noticed it was running rough when it was cold, eventually it threw a Po302 (#2 misfire) code. After a little reading I'm hearing the intake manifold gaskets on these things are known to fail like they did on the LS series. I picked up a new gasket set (upper & lower intake manifold) so I'm hoping that solves the issue. Whats this updated spider pod?
They switch from a poppet injector over to a more traditional electomagnetic injector. They are more reliable and meter the fuel better.
I'll take a look into that, thanks for the info.
Its a couple hundred bucks for the conversion kit but it solves all of the issues the Vortec motors are known to have.
been googling this upgrade, very interesting and I've never heard of it until now. Since I need to pull the manifold this seems like a good upgrade while I'm in there......
I don't see it for a couple hundred, cheapest I can find is $352 for a Delphi unit.
Russell- Is this what you used?
Delphi FJ10566
Russell- Is this what you used?
Delphi FJ10566
found some alternative brands on Rockauto
GB REMANUFACTURING 833221058 Remanufactured SCPI Fuel Injector Assembly $177 + $85 Core
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FJ504 {#93441235} Multi Port Injector; Spider Injector Assembly for 8cyl Engines.; Outer Diameter: 6.5 mm; No. of Terminals: 16; w/ O-ring $241 no core
AIRTEX / WELLS 4G1888 {#238887, 93441235, M1046} $324 no core
ACDELCO 2173029 {#89060440} GM Original Equipment $343 no core
DELPHI FJ10566 $407 no core
GB REMANUFACTURING 833221058 Remanufactured SCPI Fuel Injector Assembly $177 + $85 Core
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FJ504 {#93441235} Multi Port Injector; Spider Injector Assembly for 8cyl Engines.; Outer Diameter: 6.5 mm; No. of Terminals: 16; w/ O-ring $241 no core
AIRTEX / WELLS 4G1888 {#238887, 93441235, M1046} $324 no core
ACDELCO 2173029 {#89060440} GM Original Equipment $343 no core
DELPHI FJ10566 $407 no core
Yep, the FJ10566 is what I used. I'm pretty sure the stuff listed on rockauto is all OEM poppet style stuff but you can get the updated part there if you search by part number.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1112070&jnid=299&jpid=0
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1112070&jnid=299&jpid=0
Four of the five I listed above state MFI conversion in the notes. Delphi is arguably the best though....thanks for the info
BWD #63886 as well. Local parts house should have it.
Ordered the standard motor products spider yesterday off amazon. Found dozens of positive reviews on several GM boards so I should be ok.
Plan is to pull the manifold, replace all the seals and install the new spider.
Plan is to pull the manifold, replace all the seals and install the new spider.
Good call. Same as the BWD one. I sell a ton of them at work.
I read that somewhere too. Thanks for the confirmation.
Time for some updates.
Installed a new head unit so the wifey can listen to music from her iPhone (no pics)
This thing had some weird alarm system in it and the doors would randomly lock, tore that shit out.
Water Pump took a shit so I replaced that along with the hoses. Random pic of the teardown
I mentioned earlier that this thing had this odd symptom that would cause it to over-steer, almost like it was applying more assist as you turned. Well it was downright scary going down the highway making a lane change and it would over-assist, especially with the short wheelbase. In the snow it was CRAZY. After some research on the interwebs I found some other owners complaining about the same symptoms. Turns out that GM decided to install this steering assist setup (failed approach and they stopped using it) that would give you extra assist while in a parking lot or driving very slow so it was easier to turn the steering wheel, essentially bumping up the PS pressure. Well there's a sensor on the steering column down near the pedals that senses the steering wheel turning and when those fail they cause the system to over assist pretty much all the time. I replace the sensor and it's a whole new truck, nice and tight with a firm wheel at speed. In a parking lot, turning it does seem lighter.
Pic of the sensor
Installed a new head unit so the wifey can listen to music from her iPhone (no pics)
This thing had some weird alarm system in it and the doors would randomly lock, tore that shit out.
Water Pump took a shit so I replaced that along with the hoses. Random pic of the teardown
I mentioned earlier that this thing had this odd symptom that would cause it to over-steer, almost like it was applying more assist as you turned. Well it was downright scary going down the highway making a lane change and it would over-assist, especially with the short wheelbase. In the snow it was CRAZY. After some research on the interwebs I found some other owners complaining about the same symptoms. Turns out that GM decided to install this steering assist setup (failed approach and they stopped using it) that would give you extra assist while in a parking lot or driving very slow so it was easier to turn the steering wheel, essentially bumping up the PS pressure. Well there's a sensor on the steering column down near the pedals that senses the steering wheel turning and when those fail they cause the system to over assist pretty much all the time. I replace the sensor and it's a whole new truck, nice and tight with a firm wheel at speed. In a parking lot, turning it does seem lighter.
Pic of the sensor
and now some fun stuff.
Couple weeks ago the wife called and said the truck wouldn't start. I drive over and find out it's cranking but not starting. I have spark, fuel pump relay is clicking but I don't hear the pump, it's at 155K so a pump would make sense. It has about 20 gallons in the tank so I have it towed back home.
Once I got home I confirmed I didn't have fuel at the rail and it ran on some starting fluid. Grabbed a fuel pump the next day, dropped the tank and confirmed the OE pump is still in the tank. When I was removing the ring that holds the pump in the tank one of the spot welds broke on the outer ring that's on the tank. Now there is no way to seal the sending unit to the tank, I was pissed so I had to walk away from it.
Couple days later I found a used tank locally for $75, bought that, installed the sending unit, new pump, tank & skid and then siphoned the fuel over. Truck fires right up as usual and we put another 20 or so miles on it before it dies at a stop light while my wife was driving it. She said it's running like crap? I decide to take it to work a couple days later with my tool bag packed and find it's cutting out at speed on the freeway. Like a switch, no power and then power returns in one quick jolt. Really odd. So I get to work OK and four hours later it won't start, same symptoms as before no fuel at the rail and it will start on ether. I figured I got a bad pump again. At 4pm I decide to try again, this time is starts right up! WTF.
So I decided to drive it again today, this time with my multimeter packed in my tool bag so I can diagnose it better if the no-start symptom returns. I try to start it up and the starter stops mid stroke. I hit it again, it struggles and then barely turns the engine over and it fires, running rough......then I smell coolant, see steam out the tailpipe so I shut it down.
Awesome.
Are these the heads that are known to crack? I assume it's worth the effort to pull them both and have them pressure tested, skimmed at the machine shop?
Couple weeks ago the wife called and said the truck wouldn't start. I drive over and find out it's cranking but not starting. I have spark, fuel pump relay is clicking but I don't hear the pump, it's at 155K so a pump would make sense. It has about 20 gallons in the tank so I have it towed back home.
Once I got home I confirmed I didn't have fuel at the rail and it ran on some starting fluid. Grabbed a fuel pump the next day, dropped the tank and confirmed the OE pump is still in the tank. When I was removing the ring that holds the pump in the tank one of the spot welds broke on the outer ring that's on the tank. Now there is no way to seal the sending unit to the tank, I was pissed so I had to walk away from it.
Couple days later I found a used tank locally for $75, bought that, installed the sending unit, new pump, tank & skid and then siphoned the fuel over. Truck fires right up as usual and we put another 20 or so miles on it before it dies at a stop light while my wife was driving it. She said it's running like crap? I decide to take it to work a couple days later with my tool bag packed and find it's cutting out at speed on the freeway. Like a switch, no power and then power returns in one quick jolt. Really odd. So I get to work OK and four hours later it won't start, same symptoms as before no fuel at the rail and it will start on ether. I figured I got a bad pump again. At 4pm I decide to try again, this time is starts right up! WTF.
So I decided to drive it again today, this time with my multimeter packed in my tool bag so I can diagnose it better if the no-start symptom returns. I try to start it up and the starter stops mid stroke. I hit it again, it struggles and then barely turns the engine over and it fires, running rough......then I smell coolant, see steam out the tailpipe so I shut it down.
Awesome.
Are these the heads that are known to crack? I assume it's worth the effort to pull them both and have them pressure tested, skimmed at the machine shop?
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Vortec heads....crack....noooo.....lol. oh yeah very prone to cracking.
Typically i have found they crack around the exhaust valve, but that might crack other places.
Typically i have found they crack around the exhaust valve, but that might crack other places.
I knew some Vortec heads cracked, wasn't sure if it was all of them. I'll have them pressure checked at the machine shop, hopefully they're OK and it's just a HG.
Wow, sorry to hear about the luck. Trucks looking good at least 
