What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'98 1 ton dodge...

where it cracks is the radius that runs front to back of the block passengerside, right under the freeze plugs. under the last 2 usually. you can easily see coolant tract marks if they're there. with a mirror and flashlight. but with the turbo and auto heat exchanger there its a pain. if you have a 53 block.....this is my 53 block. you can pop a frost plug out and measure the block thickness right below the plug. if its .250" or better you're looking fine. if its much less than .250" you've got a block with excessive core shift. then its more likely to crack.

TwinsInstall005.jpg
 
chevysmithz71 said:
I call shotgun and bottom bunk.:thumb::thumb:
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan... get that truck of yours finished and we'll take both rigs!

Fabrimacator21 said:
In that case you might want to consider what you can afford once you move out. I bought a dirtbike when I was living at home... once I moved out it was time to sell...:doah: takes alot of money to live these days.
Click to expand...

I know what you mean but I plan on being here for another couple of years... I won't move out until I have stuff paid off or I'm making more...

DEMON44 said:
thats a great truck. '98 12v are the Holy grail Dodge. Just as the '07 5.9 cummins is with the non-egr. No matter what configuration it is with the '98 12v you get the upgraded interiors, 3+4th doors, and the best of the 12v engines. And personally after owning one I'll never own another '98.5-'02 24v VP44 powered cummins.

the 47RE/RH is a fine auto. Problem is no one EVER upgraded them when they put the free power to the P7100...........what do you expect. a stock 2nd gen 12.25" clutch won't hold up to it either. so what the difference. upgrade some auto parts or upgrade the clutch.

the front ends are known to get loose on them too. i love duallys. I daily drive a crewcab 3500. well until I took it off the road to put a 12v in it :D

If you put a few$$$into the 47RH as a billet converter and valvebody, before you hurt it. It'll take a bunch of power.

As its all been said, 15,5K is too high. check the breakout screw on the AFC housing. if its intact. either the pump has never been opened, or someone went to some pains to install a new breakout screw after they fooled with it. usually no one ever puts in a new breakout. just replace it with a metric bolt.

12v will not likely have a 53 block, except if it was a late model 12v in ;98. they were ramping up 53 blocks for the 24v. the problems there is some 53 castings had too much core shift during casting, and crack in the water jacket radius on the passenger side rear @ cylinder 5 - 6. if its an auto there will be the OEM auto heat exchanger right over top of where the crack would be. wouldn't worry too much about it but check the blocksides @ the panrail height near the front of the engine on both sides. if its a 53 there will be a large "53" cast on 1 side or the other or both. not all 53 fail. actually very small % of them do. but you always hear about the ones that fail. I put 606rwhp through my 53 block for a couple years. never a whimper. and I beat the piss out of if.


the killer dowl pin is a 100% easy, need to fix on any 12v. gearcase alignment dowl falls out into the geartrain A) nothing happens and it falls into the oil pan. B) catches a gear and gets shot out the timing case cause a major oil leak from the hole. C) gets caught between 2 gears and you have a catastrophic engine failure.
Click to expand...

DEMON44 said:
where it cracks is the radius that runs front to back of the block passengerside, right under the freeze plugs. under the last 2 usually. you can easily see coolant tract marks if they're there. with a mirror and flashlight. but with the turbo and auto heat exchanger there its a pain. if you have a 53 block.....this is my 53 block. you can pop a frost plug out and measure the block thickness right below the plug. if its .250" or better you're looking fine. if its much less than .250" you've got a block with excessive core shift. then its more likely to crack.

TwinsInstall005.jpg
Click to expand...


All kinds of great info! I'll check on the pump tomorrow...




I've been cruising online to find similar trucks to figure out an acceptable range of prices and ran across this.... CLICK

It's identical... ext. cab long bed dually... same year and mileage is only 5k higher....

So what do you guys think? I know it depends on what I can get for my truck but I'm thinking a $13k offer knowing they'll want to go up to $13,500 or so...
 
Last edited:
Avery4jc said:
Yes, to do it right it does.
Click to expand...

everyone has their own opinions, but i don't agree with this. i would have no problem putting a camper on my truck and i will when i find the one i like.
 
Yeah it depends on who you ask but I'd rather not put a 2-3k pound box in the bed then hook up a trailer and start pulling through the hills.... plus you never know what the wind is going to do around here.
I have no doubt that a SRW truck (especially with bags) would work fine with a slide in but if I had my choice I'd rather do it with a dually.
 
I went and talked to them this afternoon as well as took it for a test drive.
I popped the hood and checked out the pump and the bolt under the hard lines was a flat head that didn't look factory so it looks like someone has been in there at some point.
The truck fired right up and drove great... driving a turbo diesel sure is a different story compared to a big block gasser... it didn't really do much with light throttle but 1/4 throttle and above you felt it in the seat of your pants.

I took it up the freeway and it ran smooth (at least as smooth as my k3500 which surprised me).

They looked over my k3500 and drove it... they basically refused to give me a set in stone trade in value unless I wanted to sit down and talk a complete package but they said it'd be in the $6k-$7k range at the most. They also didn't seem to thrilled about going much lower than $15k on the dually...

Soooooo..... here we are. I definatley want to go the diesel route but it doesn't look like this one is going to work out which is a bummer since I doubt I'll find another 70K mile 12 valve again but you never know.

I'll talk it over with my dad and see what he thinks... maybe take him down (as stupid as it is it's amazing how much more respect I get when I'm not by myself).

I'll keep this updated with what happens.
 
What would you say your k3500 is worth? 6k seems pretty high. Maybe it's a better deal then you think?
 
Maybe but at the same time I don't want to roll a bunch over from the k3500 onto the Dodge. I'll think it over and talk to my dad to see what he thinks and go from there...
 
A guy asks a tech question and he gets three pages of chit chat with guys busting his balls about price and the fact that its a dually.And only two people actually offering up tech that addresses the origional question :surepal:
 
Oh yea,I DD a crew cab dually and I do have some real first hand experience in the DRW vs SRW + camper + trailer discussion that Avery sees in his future.Not "I drove this big doolee truck one time and got skeered so they are bad" stuff :rolleyes:

I had a 3/4 ton SRW with a manual,a 4000lb+ camper,and 8000ish in trailer.Can best be described with one word,scary.Could do one or the other but not both...safely.Had to get rid of that truck and step up to a dually.Much more stable without feeling overloaded with the 4k on its back and 8k in tow.

Hindsight being what it is,why not buy the most truck you think you will ever need rather than buying twice.

Got GCVW :haha:

Im000470.jpg
 
Do what makes you happy :waytogo:

The only suggestion I have is make sure it's good from a financial perspective, both in the initial purchase plus future repairs.
 
I've been cruising online to find similar trucks to figure out an acceptable range of prices and ran across this.... CLICK

It's identical... ext. cab long bed dually... same year and mileage is only 5k higher....

So what do you guys think? I know it depends on what I can get for my truck but I'm thinking a $13k offer knowing they'll want to go up to $13,500 or so...[/quote]
looks good except for thos huge a$$ mirrors stickin out. i love those plastic camper mirrors you can flip out. i guess that 13k is a good price for cali. also if they dont take 13k then say sorry i wasted your time and walk out. BELEIVE ME it works and if it doesnt come back the next day and haggle some more. its funny they will chase you out the door!!!
 
espescially in this economy. They used to just let you walk out... now they are chasing you down and writing down your plate numbers.:haha:
 
FRIZZLEFRY said:
I really miss that body.But the new one is pretty forkin sweet :pimp:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think the new one is the best reincarnation of that drivetrain so far...






I didn't do anything with the Dodge today since I've been at work all day and I'm going to take a mid-term tonight so it looks like it'll be monday before anything happens since this lot isn't open on the weekends (how stupid is that?)
 
For 12 valve Tech, Demon is tha man...

And of course, He's right. the '98 12valve is the holy grail, the 53 block is a 24 valve thing- not a 12v block.

And those autos are not weak, they just werent designed with the cummins in mind..:doah:

2 years ago that truck may have been a $15k truck, but with fuel costs and the economy what it is, I'd look to pay no more than $12k.

My dad just wrecked his 2001 HO 6 speed truck. he gave $16.9k for it, insurance payed out $12k, and He replaced the very same truck for $10k. Point is, they just arent selling well with fuel costs and the economy in a slump.


FWIW, Ive got a 98 12 valve HD 3/4 ton, I paid $12,000 4 years ago, and it had 100k on it. I tow about 12k lbs every day. I didnt put in a trans till 170K, and its got just shy of 300 on it now, trans still going strong. I threw a billet converter at it, among other things.

Im in the middle of swapping out the auto for my dads 6 speed right now, and only because I prefer the manual with a turbo engine.
 
Avery4jc said:
Yeah, I think the new one is the best reincarnation of that drivetrain so far...






I didn't do anything with the Dodge today since I've been at work all day and I'm going to take a mid-term tonight so it looks like it'll be monday before anything happens since this lot isn't open on the weekends (how stupid is that?)
Click to expand...

I have never seen a lot that wasnt open on the weekends :confused:
 
Wed night a bud and i swapped the P7100 out on my'95 12v in the crewcab chev. 3 hours driving in and driving out, 16.5 degrees timing. put an Industrial Injection Dragon Fly pump on it. plenty good enough for now. I just couldn't pull the trigger on the 13mm pump though. not without a ported, oringed, studded head and cam swap first..........one step at a time. :doah:
 
FRIZZLEFRY said:
I have never seen a lot that wasnt open on the weekends :confused:
Click to expand...

Me either but we were there last Sunday afternoon and they were closed and their door says M-F 9:00-5:00 which is stupid... so how in the heck are people that actually work or go to school supposed to get over there?

(This is JH over on Blackstone BTW)

:confused:



EDIT: Aha! I'm such a dork sometimes... I didn't even check their site for pictures!

So here it is...

http://www.jhsanders.com/98-Dodge3500-Diesel-4x4-Black.htm
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom