$1 Bob
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
A '69 Build... "Brought to you by Don Juan Productions" Full index added to page #1
6969 Lbs....
Its the only one that makes sense.
With a big stompy big block a little extra weight ain't gonna hurt a thing.....
-G
Its the only one that makes sense.
With a big stompy big block a little extra weight ain't gonna hurt a thing.....
-G
Can ya say it in German???
Glad you feel that way. It shouldn't matter when I install the UHMV skids to the bottom of everything then.
Kinda of a slow weekend in the garage. Started off really wanting to get the slider on the pass side, the truck doors cut down into blazer doors, blasted and hung.
I got some of it done. Pass slider went on pretty easy so I moved onto the doors. I used this thread to know where to cut them. I looked in the Factory manual but it really didn't help much.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=2600102#post2600102
I didn't finish with all of the cuts as I have a couple of plans there. I just really wanted to get them so they would fit under the top for now. Still need to find the plates for the latch and the clips to make them official blazer doors.
I forgot my camera at work on Friday, so there will be fewer pics this time.
Door cut down, blasted and a piss coat of RG. Installed the door and fender on the drivers side. I want to get all of the skins on this thing before I lock everything in with the firewall dash bars.
I'm really happy with all of the lines. I still need to work on the fender door gap a bit. A little big at the bottom still.
Started to get the filler panels in place..
and finished one of them..
After that, not a lot happened. Spent the rest of the day figuring out how and where I'm going to push the bar through the cowl area and still keep everything 100% bolt on.
Came up with two questions throughout the weekend though.
1) Do you think these shock attachment point would work out on the 60? Or should I cut them off and build something directly over the axle?
2) I forgot what it was..
I'll get back to ya
I might be wrong, but I think the German word for yahtzee is yahtzee, but I'll ask my landlord to confirm
Looking good dude! Is the heat getting any better for you? I hope so because it's been hot as balls here the past two days, up in the 90's...so maybe we borrowed it from you...
That shock mount looks close to where I mounted mine. I'd say it's really going to depend mostly on where you make the upper mount. I found my 14" travel bilsteins were nowhere near long enough without cutting down the ford towers, so you may want to order some knuckle top tabs from Kert. Just my 0.02.
Looking good dude! Is the heat getting any better for you? I hope so because it's been hot as balls here the past two days, up in the 90's...so maybe we borrowed it from you...
That shock mount looks close to where I mounted mine. I'd say it's really going to depend mostly on where you make the upper mount. I found my 14" travel bilsteins were nowhere near long enough without cutting down the ford towers, so you may want to order some knuckle top tabs from Kert. Just my 0.02.
That's pretty funny on the yahtzee thing..
The heat sucks. It was a lot cooler with it only hitting 98 in the garage. I think that it was the heat and me kicking your a$$ in the international drinking game from Saturday that left Sunday being kinda of a low and slow work day in the garage.
I have the 7100 on order in the 14's, so when I get them, I guess that I'll move on from there.
Ha, I remembered my second questions.
Cage gussets: So I was reading that cage gussets can only be used in a couple of ways on the Hammers race cars. Either with a tube gusset or with a plate gusset. But, the plate gusset must be on the outside of the tubes. I guess, if it does get into a flop, the plate gusset can act like a knife between the two tubes.
Now that I wrote this down, I came up with another idea for the A pillar dash bar, firewall through bar thing. I'll box it out between the A and the dash bar. That way I can build a plate on the one end of the through bar and bolt it onto my boxed gusset. Sorry, thinking and typing..
The heat sucks. It was a lot cooler with it only hitting 98 in the garage. I think that it was the heat and me kicking your a$$ in the international drinking game from Saturday that left Sunday being kinda of a low and slow work day in the garage.
I have the 7100 on order in the 14's, so when I get them, I guess that I'll move on from there.
Ha, I remembered my second questions.
Cage gussets: So I was reading that cage gussets can only be used in a couple of ways on the Hammers race cars. Either with a tube gusset or with a plate gusset. But, the plate gusset must be on the outside of the tubes. I guess, if it does get into a flop, the plate gusset can act like a knife between the two tubes.
Now that I wrote this down, I came up with another idea for the A pillar dash bar, firewall through bar thing. I'll box it out between the A and the dash bar. That way I can build a plate on the one end of the through bar and bolt it onto my boxed gusset. Sorry, thinking and typing..
You did whoop my a$$ in the international beerathon Saturday...I was whooped after all day on the bus and in the sun. Cheap date!
It's not like I gave ya a lot of notice...
I believe it went down like this....Hey, it's hot here and I want to start drinkin', ya in?
So, where are the pics from the weekend?
I believe it went down like this....Hey, it's hot here and I want to start drinkin', ya in?
So, where are the pics from the weekend?
They're happily on my hard drive as the internet isn't cooperating at all today. I'm going up to LRMC tomorrow to gank some wifi action so I can upload the pics on photobucket/facebook and make a couple calls to the US with our magicjack that has been rendered useless by lack of internet at our house..
Well, finally made some progress that has nothing to do with crawling under the rig. Put some hours in on the dash bar to my through the cowl bar.
Spent a lot of time thinking of the entire system and pretty much have it all figured out. The first step was to build some gussets with a removable plate on the back side.
Everything came out pretty well. Had to take the dash out several times, just to make sure all would work out. As it turns out, I'll only need to build the glove box a little different. I didn't plan on using one of the cardboard boxes like they came, so that shouldn't be a big deal.
On with some pics.
Drilled some holes..
Started with one plate gusset. In the end, I had six of these cut up. Three for each side.
Once I figured out how the boxes were going to work, I started to weld everything together..
Did a little final grind on the insides so they fit nice and tight.
Took everything back out and drilled the holes through 3 pieces of 1/4" and tacked back in..
And a couple of pics of how far they ended up in the openings.
Installed the dash again and took a couple of pics of the clearance to the back of the gauges..
Spent a lot of time thinking of the entire system and pretty much have it all figured out. The first step was to build some gussets with a removable plate on the back side.
Everything came out pretty well. Had to take the dash out several times, just to make sure all would work out. As it turns out, I'll only need to build the glove box a little different. I didn't plan on using one of the cardboard boxes like they came, so that shouldn't be a big deal.
On with some pics.
Drilled some holes..
Started with one plate gusset. In the end, I had six of these cut up. Three for each side.
Once I figured out how the boxes were going to work, I started to weld everything together..
Did a little final grind on the insides so they fit nice and tight.
Took everything back out and drilled the holes through 3 pieces of 1/4" and tacked back in..
And a couple of pics of how far they ended up in the openings.
Installed the dash again and took a couple of pics of the clearance to the back of the gauges..
Awesome. The whole damn truck. Awesome.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
Great job! Keep the updates coming...it's looking amazing.
I see where you can bolt it on the inside, but were you making it removable? How will that bar come out with the plate on the back like it is (just curious)?
Also, are those bars going to interfere with your hood closure/cowl?
Looking really good man. Your welds look great
Also, are those bars going to interfere with your hood closure/cowl?
Looking really good man. Your welds look great
Thank You.
Don't worry, I'll keep them coming. I really don't do much else anymore, that is at least till hunting season starts.
I see where you can bolt it on the inside, but were you making it removable? How will that bar come out with the plate on the back like it is (just curious)?
Also, are those bars going to interfere with your hood closure/cowl?
Looking really good man. Your welds look great
Good eye, my man. It's kinda tough to describe what is going on. I'll try to break it down a little.
With those gussets welded to the cage, it makes the entire cage 100% removable now. I'll need to unbolt the dash, but it all should slide right out to the back of the rig.
The through bars (sorry, don't now what else to call them) were a bit tricky. At this point I can go two ways.
1) Have them so they will always be part of the truck, but will never be seen as they are behind the dash.
2) Add two of the tube disconnect clamps behind where the through tube bolts up to the back of the gusset. Kinda like the two that I installed by the tranny pan. All though, these couldn't be the double locks like down below, they would need to be the singles so they could slide.
At this point it is very important that I get all the rest of the skins on the truck as if I was getting ready to paint the rig....perfect.. It's all going to be locked together soon.
As you remember, I cut out the boxes on the underside, so I really have nothing that will hold the firewall now. With these through tubes, they will go from the back of the bolted gussets.. (then maybe a tube disconnect) to a plate that will be attached to the inside of the cowl. That plate will have a hole in it that the "through tube" can slide through (no attachment to the tube).. then to another plate the will be bolted to the interior plate in the cowl. From there it's onto the engine cage..
Sorry, if it doesn't make a lot of sense yet. I think I got it figured out in my melon though.
Here is a pic that might help.
Right on dude, I gotcha. I always forget about the bolt-together tube sections, even though every time I remember them I think, "wow, what a sweet idea"... You're going to have one rock solid rig when you're done with this thing
You're going to have one rock solid rig when you're done with this thing
?..when you're done with this thing
Done? What's that? I've never heard of such a thing.
amazing stuff man!
Nice work Mike, really nice work.
Done? What's that? I've never heard of such a thing.
I'm shooting for a 97% and then calling it..
Thanks Ash, starting to see the light...
Funny, it wasn't till I cut those holes in the cowl and had the tubes sticking through, I thought to myself.....Man, this is getting serious... Granted I was done working and drinkin' at the time. Thanks Heath, good to see ya back around these parts..
Unreal Mike...really really nice work,allot of thought and nice welds too!
On to the front of the rig...
The last couple of weeks have been getting myself pretty familiar with the front of the rig. Someday my shocks will arrive and I want to have as much done as possible for the building of the engine cage/shock hoops.
So, I don't know if a lot of you guys seen the thread that Brandon started about clearing the shackle bolt with big ol' headers.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300441
As it turns out, I was having the same problem that many of the other BB 1st gen guys were having. Just not enough clearance with the shackle. I know that the original shackle hanger was built for a 3" spring, with many of us running the 2.5" springs now, I was going to install a FUSH kit from Kert. Well, after I had taken the original off, I came to realize that the new one was just not going to work. After talking with Kert, the flat FUSH hangers that many sell are only for the 73+ rigs. He offered to make me a one-off, but by that time, I had already started on building some.
On with the pics..
Old and new..
Where the 73+ FUSH hit with the bolt holes.
Curved bottom..
Starting to make some up
Blasted, painted and set between the original and the 73+
That's as far as I got last night. I know that they fit really nice, just want to shoot them with some black before I install them 100%. I'll get some clearance pics up, after the install.
The last couple of weeks have been getting myself pretty familiar with the front of the rig. Someday my shocks will arrive and I want to have as much done as possible for the building of the engine cage/shock hoops.
So, I don't know if a lot of you guys seen the thread that Brandon started about clearing the shackle bolt with big ol' headers.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300441
As it turns out, I was having the same problem that many of the other BB 1st gen guys were having. Just not enough clearance with the shackle. I know that the original shackle hanger was built for a 3" spring, with many of us running the 2.5" springs now, I was going to install a FUSH kit from Kert. Well, after I had taken the original off, I came to realize that the new one was just not going to work. After talking with Kert, the flat FUSH hangers that many sell are only for the 73+ rigs. He offered to make me a one-off, but by that time, I had already started on building some.
On with the pics..
Old and new..
Where the 73+ FUSH hit with the bolt holes.
Curved bottom..
Starting to make some up
Blasted, painted and set between the original and the 73+
That's as far as I got last night. I know that they fit really nice, just want to shoot them with some black before I install them 100%. I'll get some clearance pics up, after the install.
