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a few misc. 6.2/6.5 questions

Wrench

1/2 ton status
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Jul 19, 2007
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Stony Plain, Alberta
1. what is the purpose of the wire that attaches to the fuel line in the lifter valley? The fuel supply line comes up from the mech. pump and in the valley has a big fat section on it with a wire coming out of one end.

2. My IP timing mark was originally set about 3/16" to the right of the mark on the gear cover/timing cover piece. If I'm looking at it correctly, that means it's advanced, right? Also, what does that translate into in terms of degrees, and what's a good measurement for advancing the timing, or should the marks line up? I know what correct timing is in terms of degrees, but not sure if the mark accounts for that or equals zero timing.

I'll keep adding questions as I put things together, but I can't remember any others right now . . .
 
1) Never seen the wire your talking about... can you post a pic?

2) The "timing marks" between the pump and block are the original when the motor was new. If the injector pump is ever replaced they will no longer line up when the motor timing is set correctly for the new pump. They do however give a good base line if you replace it and don't have the correct diesel timing light to do the timing yourself. It will get you into the shop to have the timing reset.
 
I will post up a picture in the morning of that wire . . .

Another question, am I going to screw something up if I unbolt the aluminum part of my turbo (the fresh air inlet/output housing) and rotate it. I want to point the pressure side directly away from the engine, and it appears that I can just unbolt that part, rotate it by x/6ths of a turn because there are six bolt holes, and put it back together. For my intercooler . . .

Thanks . . . .
 
I've seen the part with the wire in the lifter valley...on my '83. I assumed it was some sort of fuel heater?

Rene
 
No idea...

Hey, how are the valves on that second set of heads you have, and was there one that was relatively crack free?

The one head I got from you had a couple valves with the tips all galled up and would need replacing. That same head also had more cracking than initially appeared to be the case... I want to drop the heads off a machine shop to get it tanked / magnafluxed and have the valves lapped / new guides put in, but want to be taking in good heads to make sure that I am not paying to have a crappy head tanked then magnafluxed...
 
The other heads are yours if you want them, for parts or whole. Should be able to get a serviceable set of valves between the two pairs. As far as cracks, i haven't cleaned the other one yet so i'm not sure, but the one I did clean is no good.
 
cool, thanks guys. Any ideas on the turbo disassembly?

You want to know how to take the turbo apart? Turbos are very easy to work on...........when they come apart nice. I can't say do this and this, casue theres a bunch of different manufacturers and everyone it seems has a different method of holding it all together.


......just remember the nut holding the compressor wheel on.........is probably LH thread.
 
thanks, that's what I wanted to know :D:waytogo: I just wanted to be sure that I wouldn't screw something up if I started removing bolts. I'll post up pictures of my intercooler install when it's finished . . . .
 
yikes, that would suck :(. I got 'er all back together again, seemed pretty simple.

Next question--6.5 stock fuel filter canister has three lines in the bottom, one labeled "IN", one "OUT", and a third small one that kinda points nowhere. Is this a fuel return line, does it just tee into the return from the injectors? There is also the line from the top of the IP into the return, is this surplus from the IP going to the tank, or does the surplus from the injectors go back into the IP there?

I can't find a ruddy fuel line schematic . . . .:mad:
 
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