Well, here it is, a step by step guide on how to four link your rear on a chevy. The fallowing is just recomendations and not the only way to perform a four link. You might see things you want to do a little different, but this will help you with most questions I see on boards. If you fallow this guide you should have a good and affordable linked rear suspension. So, what is it? It's a double triangulated four-link, it will work any suspension you like, coils, coilsovers, quarter ellipticals, or airbags. The links will be suffictent enough to drop the truck on them without damage and you can expect (with adequate coils) 20" or rear travel. You will need to be a GOOD FABRICATOR to complete this, please don't attempt it unless you make good consistent welds and joints. This is your suspension after all. The vehicle this was designed for runs 37-38” tires and a relatively low ride height. Tools required: Grinder, wrenches and sockets of all sizes and shapes, a good welder, AT LEAST a 175 or larger MIG, chop saw that cuts 45*, two large jacksatnds and two small jacksatnads (under the axle) and some small lengths of 2x4 woods to put under the sants to adjust height, a ratchet strap to hold the pinion angle, a little know how would help too Tools not needed but help: plasma cutter, tubing bender, band saw, auto cad At the end is a materials list. I'm not including pictures of steps that I feel don't need pictures... Step 1: Remove your old suspension. Support the truck with large jackstands! these stands are going to be under the truck for while so make sure you wont need them anytime soon. Step 2: Adjust the truck to the ride height you want. This is simple, by now you should know what size tire you are going to run, or are already running. Now decide how much clearnace you want. Remeber these tires will be moving a lot under your rig, so make sure you leave adequete clerance or are prepared to cut some sheetmetal! To adjust ride height I made my upper coil spring buckets adjustable. Step 3: Building your suspension mounts. I recommend building your suspension mounts next. It is best to know how big they will be before you start plotting where your links will go. You don’t want stuff to get in the way. Here is an example of my coil mounts… Make sure you use no less then ¼” material everywhere on the suspension!!!!! This includes the suspension mounts. Step 4: Find your measurements. Download the four link calculator. Everything up to now has been easy. This is where you need to start plotting your suspension. You will probably need to remove your exhaust to clear the links. Here is some help with the calculator. To find your center of gravity, it is common to measure from the ground to the top of your transmission bellhousing. This is a safe number to use. For most of the other numbers in the first column you need to just do some research to find the approximate weight. In terms of geometry, if you are running a short wheelbase rig you will want an antisquat of around 60-70%. You will want a roll axis between 0 and -2* Your instant center x-axis should be around 140 inches. There is no right number anywhere here, just get it close and you’ll be ok. These aren’t road race cars we’re dealing with. Once your front tire climbs and obstacle and your rear axle articulates your geometry is and center of gravity will be all out of whack. For the links, I kept mine at 34” for my lowers and 29” for my uppers. Upper links: start dead center with center of axle tube At the frame: 20” apart, 29.5” off the ground At the axle end: 10” apart 28.25” off the ground Lower links: start 3.5” forward of axle centerline At the frame: 14” apart 21.75” off the ground At the Axle: 32” apart 17” off the ground If you plan on larger tires or a taller ride height your numbers might be a little different. Ask questions if you are confused, I can help you with your numbers. Make sure nothing is going to get in the way, I used the stock crossmember to build me new frame crossmember off of, you can use that as an idea of where your links will mount to. Step 5: Build your bridge. Once you’ve got an idea of what your links measurements will be you can build your axle bridge. The bridge needs to be very sturdy. I built this one out of 2x3x.250” rectangular tube… The bridge should be about 1.5” shorter then the mounting height of your upper links at the axle end if your using bushings. If your using heims or super flex joints then you will need to allow at least ¾” of clearance under the rods ends for movement of the links. Makes sure you welds are GREAt and you joints fitment is perfect. You might consider taking some tube that, when cut in half, will fit over the axle tube and welding it on the tube to reinforce the axle where the bridge meets it. Make the sleeves about 10” each side. It’s cheap insurance. Step 6: Build your frame cross member. This is a tough one. I integrated mine into my stock crossmember. Use the same material that you used in the axle bridge, 2x3x.250 wall rectangular tubing. This needs to be strong, your upper AND lower links will be mounted to this!!! The location is not super critical because your link mounts will reach out from here and “grab” your links. Just make it within a few inches of your links final locations. Step 7: Building your links. Here is something fun. Your links should be made of the highest quality materials. The tubing should be no smaller then 1 ¾” x .250 wall DOM tubing. For larger heavier trucks running huge tires, hardtops, etc. you should use 2” .250 inch wall DOM tube. This crap is $$$$ so get just enough. The rod ends are up to you. I used bushings at the axle end for a smooth and quiet ride. For the flexy joints, I used QA1 ¾” heims with high misalignment spacers on th e top links and rubicon express 2.5” super flex joints on the lower links. You gotta remember that your lower links will be taking a beating, where you lower links wont be taking any impacts. So you lower links need to be make of more durable material. If you don’t hace a tubing bender, or your’s wont bend heavy wall or chromoly tubing then I would recommend 2” 3/8 wall DOM tube for your lower links. Spend some extra coin here cause you don’t want bent links in the middle of nowhere!!!! This is how ibuilt my lower links to add extra strength… Make sure your links are the same length!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Take your time and do it right. Step 8: Squaring your axle and setting driveline angle. To square up your axle you will probably want to have a friend help you. Find a point on your truck (I used my gas tank) to measure for side to side alignment of your axle. Use your front axle to square off of the front to back alignment. Make sure your axle is square, you don’t want it “crab walking” down the road. Set up your axle where it will be with the tires on. Measure your tires a take the radius (half the tires height) and set the center of the hub at that height on jackstands. Now set your pinion angle. Do not build in some slack for axle movement because now that you have links your pinion wont be rotating due to spring wrap. Step 9: Building your mounts. Now that your crossmember and axle bridge is welded on and your axle is square you can start mounting your links. Taking your measurements from step 4 you find how your mounts should look. Take some flat plate and some scrap tube of your choice and wled stands that are the height the links should be to mount. Minus half the rod ends height. This will allow you to hold the links to the truck and still have both your hands available to build you templates. Believe me these stands are life savers and help keep things accurate. Do one link at a time. You will use the same links mounts on the driver side as you do on the passenger side, so you only need to make one set of templates. Put your links on the stands and position them to where they are supposed to sit once the truck is done. Take some poster board and start cutting templates to hold your link mounts. The more time you spend making templates the better the finished product will be. Make everything strong and larger enough. Make sure that while your suspension is rotating that your links for contact the mounts. Tack weld you mounts in place, DON”T WELD THEM IN. If something doesn’t work you don’t want to be cutting anything apart. Welding the mounts is one of the last steps. Step 10: Cycling. Not a bicycle. Once you have all your mounts build and in place you can now jack up the rear end and remove the jack stands. Have a little fun and enjoy the fruits of your labor so far. Put the floor jack under the pumpkin and move the axle around to make sure it flexes like you want and doesn’t bind up. Check everything, including your driveline. Make sure it has enough travel and doesn’t bind the u-joints. Take pictures :-] Step 11: Gusseting!!!! This is critical. Once everything is working well and nothing is binding you are good to go. Weld your mounts up and anything else that hasn’t been welded yet. Now that you have your mounts built you need to build triangle gussets so nothing will bend or tweak. Gusset everything you can, these are easy and cheap to build so the more the merrier. This is where a plasma cutter makes your life easy, but a grinder will cut em up no problem. Step 12: Driving it the first time. Drive it slow at first, just take it around the block, if it makes it your probably going to be ok. This time hit the gas a little and swerve a little. Once you’ve feel like it’s driveable wheel the crap out of it. Materials list: 10’ of 1 ¾” x.250 wall DOM tube 6’ of 1 ¾” x.120 wall chormoly tube 10’ of 2x3x.250 rectangular tube One 2x4 foot sheet of ¼” plate for making mounts and gussets Two ¾” QA1 rod ends with tube adapter and high misalignment spacers Two 2.5” rubicon express super flex joints and assembly tool Four energy suspension poly bushings Two coil springs Necessary bolts, nuts, and washers.