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AAM axle swap questions.

k5blazerguy

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I have the 12valve/NV4500 running 37s. I’ve been saying for a while I wanna regear from 4.10s to 3.73s to cruise a little better at highway speeds.
Anyway, the other day my axle decided it’s time to do something……. judging by the clunk clunk noises the rear end is making now.
I’m thinking easiest and cost effective is a 01-10 AAM 11.5 from a duramax which already has 3.73s. Or a dodge AAM.
I’m sure the 10.5 AAM would be strong enough but aren’t they mostly 4.10?
Also, I have hydroboost brakes…..gonna have to figure out with going to rear disks now. And possibly upgrading the front calipers to get better stopping. See what you guys have done and what y’all recommend. Are the 11.5 and 10.5 AAM different widths? Thanks.

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The easiest thing is just fixing your axle if your housing is ok.

The aam is considerably wider than what you have now. The dodge version is the better axle overall and it’s 72” I believe. Mostly because it doesn’t have a g80.
There’s a pretty good chance that the cables will literally hook right together.
 
The easiest thing is just fixing your axle if your housing is ok.

The aam is considerably wider than what you have now. The dodge version is the better axle overall and it’s 72” I believe. Mostly because it doesn’t have a g80.
There’s a pretty good chance that the cables will literally hook right together.
For the cost I can get a AAM 11.5 with 3.73s for $500 and just weld new perches and have disk brakes also. That’s why I was looking into it cost wise over fixing the 14b and buying gears, lockers, etc.
But if the axle is much wider than the D60 then that will hold me back. I don’t wanna put spacers on the front to match. The wheels stick out just perfect now imo.
 
The Dodge version is wider but the GM one is within about an inch of the width of a Dana 60 front. The Dodge locker is a little better than the govbomb in the GM version but they will interchange.
 
Just google searching shows my 14b should be 67” and a AAM is 68 1/2? I’ll prob stick to as GM version since they aren’t as wide. I think the other difference was axle tube diameter from 3.5 gm to 4” dodge?
 
and aam 11.5 rear can be had from a 8.1L truck as with the dmax truck .

dodge might still be american threads and the gm is metric . this will be for the lug nut studs .
 
Also don’t forget the 1410 ujoint and the much longer pinion snout of the aam.


Makes repairing yours that much more appealing.
 
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Also don’t forget the 1410 ujoint and the much longer pinion snout of the aam.


Makes repairing yours that much more appealing.
lol. I appreciate you tryin to talk me out of it. What about the 10.5 AAM? as far as not having to cut the driveshaft, is it the same length as the 14bolt?
 
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The 10.5 aam with the removable pinion support is a great option. Not the other aam 10.5. You’re still stuck with a g80 but don’t have to do driveshaft work other than a yoke or ujoint swap. Same amount of work for install.
 
The 10.5 aam with the removable pinion support is a great option. Not the other aam 10.5. You’re still stuck with a g80 but don’t have to do driveshaft work other than a yoke or ujoint swap. Same amount of work for install.
He said it’s from a 03 2500HD with a 6.0. I know it’s not the 3.73 I’m after. But it will have the brakes and I can get my truck back on the road. I’ll just have to regear later. I’m at the point where I can get my current axle new gears, truetrac, disk brake setup, overhaul kit, or just go this route for maybe $500 and just do perches, shock mounts…. What are your thoughts on this one?

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It is disc so that is cool but the axle that fits as is still gets my vote. It’s not like it’s a 10 bolt or anything. It’s actually pretty good in it’s stock configuration and the brakes are pretty good too. And it bolts in and the cables work as intended. A 14 bolt in a square is not something that has a lot of reasons to swap out.
 
That might be 3.73. In 01 that axle had 2 options 3.73 an 4.1 at least behind an 8.1. My 01 burb has 3.73.
 
Doing research, looking for an 11.5. Guys on FBMP are selling GM 11.5’s with 1410 or 1480 joint? Didnt see that mentioned above, guessing it was a later update to handle mo torque? Dont seem to see 1480’s on dodges, so am curious about that.

Have been on hunt for a dodge unit. Could 1480 chevy yoke swap onto dodge pinion? I assume so, maybe just needs different seal? That would be some serious beef.

Add some truck nuts and then you really got something
 
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lol. I appreciate you tryin to talk me out of it. What about the 10.5 AAM? as far as not having to cut the driveshaft, is it the same length as the 14bolt?
A word of caution on the Dodge/Ram AAM 10.5” ( non removable pinion support ) not all are full-floater design - this may not be important to you but is something to consider.

I’m surprised that such a low numerically gear ratio is wanted with .73 o/d and a 37” tall tire - at 55mph that would only be turning just over 1300RPM’s and seems a little low even for a mighty 12V.
No doubt that it will do it but it will be in lugging territory.
 
A word of caution on the Dodge/Ram AAM 10.5” ( non removable pinion support ) not all are full-floater design - this may not be important to you but is something to consider.

I’m surprised that such a low numerically gear ratio is wanted with .73 o/d and a 37” tall tire - at 55mph that would only be turning just over 1300RPM’s and seems a little low even for a mighty 12V.
No doubt that it will do it but it will be in lugging territory.
I was wondering about this to......I could see wanting 3.73s if you had an old 4 speed, but with an NV4500 and 37s Id think 4.10s would be about perfect.
 
I just realized that this thread is from February - I guess this is a little late for comments, advice or questions…
 
I just realized that this thread is from February - I guess this is a little late for comments, advice or questions…
I bumped it because I’m looking for a 11.5 for my build. Figured build off this thread vs start a new one
 
I was wondering about this to......I could see wanting 3.73s if you had an old 4 speed, but with an NV4500 and 37s Id think 4.10s would be about perfect.

The Cummins seems to like it around 1800-2000 rpms on the highway and gets best mileage. I’ve put 20k miles on this truck since last year and with the 4.10s I was at 22-2300 rpms goin 75 down the freeway. Anymore felt like I was pushing the truck to go and economy suffered. Since then I’ve had both axles rebuilt and installed 3.73s with TruTracs and have been pretty happy. 75 I’m about 19-2000 and can even cruise at 80 on the highway (as long as there’s no headwind, but that’s a different story). I’m averaging 18-20 both in town and on the highway. I get better mileage around town driving. Only suffered a little on the initial takeoff but the truck has plenty of power and I also installed new injectors and an exhaust manifold to help compensate for that. So far so good. I’ve hauled a camper trailer on a 600 mile trip and she did great.
 
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