Advice on K5 shopping list

[marine_mike]

OK gents, I'm sitting here mapping out the build on my 87 blazer and came up with this shopping list. This is going to be a DD/Weekend Wheeler. Could you guys look it over and give me your thoughts. You'll have to bare with me on some of the info as I'm in Iraq and don't have the all the specs on my blazer right now.

The Blazer:
1987 K5
Crate/carbed 350
700r4 (unknown shift kit)
np208
10Bolts F/R (unknown gearing)
Unknown 4" lift with blocks in the rear
35" BFG/ATs
3" Dual Exhaust out the back

The Plan is to get 5" total lift and throw some 37" tires and H1s on with some fender trimming. Here's what I have......


87 K5 Blazer Shopping List:
**Expected outcome: 5” Total Lift**

CUCV D60/14B FF-$1,500 (+/-) Unknown
Abomb Bumper w/B52 Kit-$600 I'll Call Kurt and ask. DIY4X
Cross-over Steering-$440 ORD
Front 52” Springs-$300\_____ generalspringskc.com
Rear 64” Springs- $300/
EZ Inch Spacers-(both axles)$66 DIY4X
Shackle Flip-N-Switch(w/Shackles) -$200 DIY4X
Rear Shock In-boarding Bar-$165 DIY4X
Lower Shock In-Boarding Mounts-$20 DIY4X
U-bolts(Both Axles)-$45 DIY4X
H1 Wheels & Tires-$1,700 (+/-) TWF
Steering Box Brace-$130 ORD
Ford Front Shock Mounts-$46ORD
Bilstien 5125s-$356ORD

Break Lines?
Rear Drive Shaft(From CUCV?)
XJ Steering Shaft?
2WD Steering Box?

As expected I am exceeding the purchase price of the blazer, but then again, who doesn't doing what we do with them. I do plan on selling the take offs to offset some of the cost.

 

[owenst7]

OK gents, I'm sitting here mapping out the build on my 87 blazer and came up with this shopping list. This is going to be a DD/Weekend Wheeler. Could you guys look it over and give me your thoughts. You'll have to bare with me on some of the info as I'm in Iraq and don't have the all the specs on my blazer right now.

The Blazer:
1987 K5
Crate/carbed 350
700r4 (unknown shift kit)
np208
10Bolts F/R (unknown gearing)
Unknown 4" lift with blocks in the rear
35" BFG/ATs
3" Dual Exhaust out the back

The Plan is to get 5" total lift and throw some 37" tires and H1s on with some fender trimming. Here's what I have......


87 K5 Blazer Shopping List:
**Expected outcome: 5” Total Lift**

CUCV D60/14B FF-$1,500 (+/-) Unknown
Abomb Bumper w/B52 Kit-$600 I'll Call Kurt and ask. DIY4X
Cross-over Steering-$440 ORD
Front 52” Springs-$300\_____ generalspringskc.com
Rear 64” Springs- $300/
EZ Inch Spacers-(both axles)$66 DIY4X
Shackle Flip-N-Switch(w/Shackles) -$200 DIY4X
Rear Shock In-boarding Bar-$165 DIY4X
Lower Shock In-Boarding Mounts-$20 DIY4X
U-bolts(Both Axles)-$45 DIY4X
H1 Wheels & Tires-$1,700 (+/-) TWF

Shocks ?
Break Lines?
Rear Drive Shaft(From CUCV?)
XJ Steering Shaft?
2WD Steering Box?

As expected I am exceeding the purchase price of the blazer, but then again, who doesn't doing what we do with them. I do plan on selling the take offs to offset some of the cost.

You might not really need a new rear driveshaft except for the 1350 ujoints if you need the strength. I have a similar suspension setup but with the 350/203 combo (one of the longest I believe) and I didn't really need a new shaft (for length purposes) until I moved the axle back 2". It's always cheaper to shorten a driveshaft rather than lengthen one (usually is similar in cost to a whole new one), so if you can find one with all the right yokes that's too long, that's what you'd want to take to your driveline place.

You can just swap out the sector shaft if you have a good 4x4 steering box. Much easier and cheaper than doing the whole box.

Don't forget ubolts. You shouldn't reuse ubolts. Kinda dangerous.

I actually just got done making new shock mounts for the rear. I fit 12.5" travel shocks perfectly vertical by mounting them outside the frame 1.5". There's 3" between the frame rail and the leaf spring, so there's just enough room for a shock there without any issues. Having them vertical and especially that far out by the wheels makes them a lot more effective and uses up some otherwise dead space back there (I know my rig is getting crowded back there). I have mine set up with about 3.5" of bump travel on the shocks and they will droop a couple more inches than the 64"s will do on their own anyway. All I did was make some brackets out of .250" for the frame and some short square tubes that I welded off the front of the axle tube by the spring perch. I'd rather them be in the back, but it makes the exhaust complicated, and it's still not nearly as prone to hanging up as the pinion on the 14 bolt.

Don't forget about beefing up the steering. I think the brace/crossmember is an absolute must pretty much on even a stock truck. The plating kit I don't think is completely necessary if your frame is in good condition and you are either not abusing it or running hydro assist. Hydro assist is really the best solution for the frame strength though, however you will probably not necessarily need it with those tires. I would say they are pretty much the limit though.

Usually your local hydraulic shop is a good place to go for brake lines. They can make them however you want and are usually pretty cheap. I also seem to remember that a 2x4 88-98? front brake line is a good, readily available, and long brake line.

 

[scottishdave]

For your Shocks....I love the Bilstien
5100's

And ORD makes some killer extended soft lines for the front, and Inline tube makes great fitting factory replacement hard lines.

 

[marine_mike]

ownest7, I listed the u-bolts up there for both the d60 and 14b. I was wondering if the driveshaft from the donor CUCV would work since most were apparently equipped with a np208 also unless fitted for a PTO winch. (got that from wikipedia) If not, then I'll just got with the 1310/1350 u-joint and shorten the shaft. I did forget to add the steering brace kit to the list. A must have in my opinion.

Scottishdave, I saw a sight that had some good prices on the bilstiens. That is number one on my list of choices. I'll take a gander at ORD for the softlines and inline tube for the fittings.

 

[blazinzuk]

So quick question, while the 52" and 64" swap is way popular, one of the reasons is cheap. Cause you can pick up used springs for cheap. So why not custom springs?

I would add a wraptor traction bar from Kert to that list too.

I would also look at getting custom front springs and just used rear springs.

I say used rear springs because the traction bar takes care of one of the major problems with any rear leaf spring suspension, axle wrap.

It is much harder to build a traction bar in the front. So full on custom springs in the front will be so much better than 52s. With used rear springs it will free up enough money to get the custom front springs.

I run 64s in back and I run them full pack from a 3/4 ton and it flexes just fine but is much better with axle wrap than my old pack was

 

[marine_mike]

So quick question, while the 52" and 64" swap is way popular, one of the reasons is cheap. Cause you can pick up used springs for cheap. So why not custom springs?

I would add a wraptor traction bar from Kert to that list too.

I would also look at getting custom front springs and just used rear springs.

I say used rear springs because the traction bar takes care of one of the major problems with any rear leaf spring suspension, axle wrap.

It is much harder to build a traction bar in the front. So full on custom springs in the front will be so much better than 52s. With used rear springs it will free up enough money to get the custom front springs.

I run 64s in back and I run them full pack from a 3/4 ton and it flexes just fine but is much better with axle wrap than my old pack was

Both sets of springs are new 3/4 ton from the website listed next to them.

 

[blazinzuk]

Both sets of springs are new 3/4 ton from the website listed next to them.

Yah I got that what I am saying is get a used set for the rear because its cheap, then use the money savings to buy a set of alcans for the front.

Alcans are completely custom for your truck, not an off the shelf design, they can build the springs with the center pin where you want it, they will build it with everything they can do to control axle wrap.

The stockers are a great way to go in back because you can use a traction bar to control the axle wrap. Custom front springs go a long way in helping that in front

Add in a long slip driveshaft too, even if you go with stock 52s up front you will need it

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Random boring stuff but are the pipes 3" all the way back or just at the tips?

If it's 3" all the way back then that's WAY to wide for a stockish small block.

Also, do those exit straight out the back? Kinda looks that way. They need to exit straight out the sides behind the rear tires in order to keep fumes from getting sucked in while the window is down.

 

[marine_mike]

From what I remember (I only had it for a few weeks before I left), yes they are 3". As for the dump, yes they do dump straight ou the back and get sucked in with the back window down.

 

[marine_mike]

So in reading some build threads, I have changed the axle setup. I'm actually going to save money this way. Here's the new list...

D60 Front DRW-$600-$800 (+/-) Unknown
D70HD Rear DRW-$140Craigslist **Purchased**
Abomb Bumper w/B52 Kit-$600 I'll Call Kurt and ask. DIY4X
Cross-over Steering-$440 ORD
Front 52” Springs-$300\_____ generalspringskc.com
Rear 64” Springs- $300/
EZ Inch Spacers-(both axles)$66 DIY4X
Shackle Flip-N-Switch(w/Shackles) -$200 DIY4X
Rear Shock In-boarding Bar-$165 DIY4X
D70 HD 4" Tube Axle Simple Swap Kit -$140 Ruff Stuff (includes U-Bolts, spring perches and lower shock mounts)
U-bolts(Dana 60 tube side and cast side)-$27 DIY4X
H1 Wheels & Tires(Stock)-$800 (+/-) TWF
Steering Box Brace-$130 ORD
Ford Front Shock Mounts-$46ORD
Bilstien 5125s-$356ORD
D70 Disc Brake Bracket (Chevy Dually)-$150Ruff Stuff

Break Lines?
14B FF SRW Hubs?
Rear Drive Shaft(From CUCV?)
XJ Steering Shaft?
2WD Steering Box?

I'm sure as I go along, and collect more parts, things will change and hopefully get cheaper. Keep in mind that some of these prices are worst case guesstimates.

 

[big pappa b]

You will want to double the price you have listed for u-bolts. That's only going to cover 1 axle.
Extended brake lines are roughly $100

 

[marine_mike]

You will want to double the price you have listed for u-bolts. That's only going to cover 1 axle.
Extended brake lines are roughly $100

Yeah, you're right. That was for the DIY4X 14B U-Bolts. I'll have to find some for the D70 since they are 4" tubes.

**Edited second list** The DIY4X U-bolts are only $13.50 for one. Found the Ruff Stuff D70 swap kit. Where could I source the brake lines for the D60 and the D70?

 

[big pappa b]

I would either get them from a local salvage yard or just make your own. The brake line can be bought in 25 or 50ft lenghts and a decent flaring tool can be had for $30 or so

 

[owenst7]

I would either get them from a local salvage yard or just make your own. The brake line can be bought in 25 or 50ft lenghts and a decent flaring tool can be had for $30 or so

I think he means the flexible lines.

I have the Superlift stainless ones for our trucks. They're the "6 inch lift" ones and they are about where I'd want them length-wise considering how much droop I have. They aren't insanely long at ride height, but I zip tied a throttle return spring (I think) to them, and that holds them up and out of the way but doesn't restrict movement when the suspension moves. I know my local hydraulic shop will make braklines cheaper, but I was in a hurry on a Saturday, so I just picked these up because Summit has them on the shelf. I have both the fronts and the rear BTW. Not sure on a part number for a real short line for the rear calipers. Maybe whatever was stock for the El Dorado's . You'd probably have better luck posting a thread title specifying rear disc brake lines so everyone that's done it will pay more attention.

The 2wd steering boxes are pretty easy to come by at any auto parts store or wrecking yard. Or you can always swap out the sector shafts like I said earlier.

I'm sure Kurt can make whatever tube diam. ubolts he wants if he's making them himself. It only takes a minute to make a ubolt and you just set the machine to whatever size you need. My local spring shop literally finishes 7 ubolts before I can finish paying and it's only two guys working in there.

 

[marine_mike]

Yeah, I was referring to the flexible lines. I'm assuming which lines to get would be self explanatory depending on whether I use caddy calipers or chevy on the D70.

 

[ion]

Yeah, I was referring to the flexible lines. I'm assuming which lines to get would be self explanatory depending on whether I use caddy calipers or chevy on the D70.

Hey buy another thing to remember with ordering anything offline, factor in shipping charges as well, not just whats listed online. I know it seems so marginal, but shipping stuff across country such as custom springs and what not can get pricy quick. I shipped a set of atlas springs from LA to Reno NV and it was 160 for shipping alone.

 

[white90burb]

I actually just got done making new shock mounts for the rear. I fit 12.5" travel shocks perfectly vertical by mounting them outside the frame 1.5". There's 3" between the frame rail and the leaf spring, so there's just enough room for a shock there without any issues. Having them vertical and especially that far out by the wheels makes them a lot more effective and uses up some otherwise dead space back there (I know my rig is getting crowded back there). I have mine set up with about 3.5" of bump travel on the shocks and they will droop a couple more inches than the 64"s will do on their own anyway. All I did was make some brackets out of .250" for the frame and some short square tubes that I welded off the front of the axle tube by the spring perch. I'd rather them be in the back, but it makes the exhaust complicated, and it's still not nearly as prone to hanging up as the pinion on the 14 bolt.

Do you happen to have pictures of how you did this?

 

[Taylormade]

I used front and rear drive shafts out of a CUCV.
1350 u-joints! I had to shorten the rear shaft and replace the D60 Yoke.

Xj shaft is a good and cheap upgrade.
I'm interested in the D70 Rear, I wish I knew of that option 6 months ago

Your list is pretty good!
I would add lockers
And if you play in the rocks I would skip the Hummer tires.

 

[marine_mike]

The HMMWV are a cheap option for right now just to get it on the road. I'll probably go with TWF Guard Dogs. So the D70 HD uses 1350 U Joint also, right? As for the lockers, most definitely. I was thinking about a lunch box in the front and Detroit in the rear. I've had good results with that combo in the the past, though it was in a YJ. (much lighter vehicle)

 

[Taylormade]

I am not sure of the yoke size on the D70, I would think it is at least a 1350.