2.5s in the rear, opinions? Low speed crawling only btw
CK5
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airshocks and our trucks
- Thread starter twoslo4five0
- Start date
No experience with them 
, but have read that they are great when looking at the price of them. Do ok for dampening (spel??), however they like to unload easily. Especially if you still have a full bodied rig. Seems as though coilovers and ORI struts offer more all around....but cost a lot more too
, but have read that they are great when looking at the price of them. Do ok for dampening (spel??), however they like to unload easily. Especially if you still have a full bodied rig. Seems as though coilovers and ORI struts offer more all around....but cost a lot more too
I used to run 2.0s on my rig but its been so long I can't remember. I'm looking into the 18 inch profenders or 18 inch radflos 2.5 flavor.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
For low speed crawling only, good option. For street, medium speed, or anything thats going to cycle them fast you're going to loose spring rate and be disappointed.
Honestly I think you're better off buying cheap coil overs like FOAs or Radflows. Although I dont know the price comparison 100%
Honestly I think you're better off buying cheap coil overs like FOAs or Radflows. Although I dont know the price comparison 100%
I would save for some decent coilovers.
Don't go foas because they are cheap. You get what you pay for. Ask folkenheath, he has to fill his foa bump stops and shocks once a day when he is using his truck.
Don't go foas because they are cheap. You get what you pay for. Ask folkenheath, he has to fill his foa bump stops and shocks once a day when he is using his truck.
I have 2.5" 18" Profenders on my truck. If I had to do it over I would not use air shocks. When I flex the truck out the rear does all the work even with the custom Alcan leaf springs in the front. This is because the rear unloads so easily. I am waiting on a sway bar to help transfer some weight to the front of the truck so the leaves can flex.
As you can see about 18" of rear wheel travel and a measured 2 inches of front flex.
It is scary when the front tries to flex over something because the cab leans over due to the rear doing all the work.
I would like to note I am still building my truck and have not wheeled it yet. The "driveway" wheeling and flexing I have done shows they flex well and the ride is pretty good for a heavy truck. I run about 200 psi to get the truck level.
The air shocks can be made to work on a heavy truck but when working in tandem with leaves in the front you will most likely need a sway bar. Looking back I would drop the extra coin on ORIs or Coilovers.
As you can see about 18" of rear wheel travel and a measured 2 inches of front flex.
It is scary when the front tries to flex over something because the cab leans over due to the rear doing all the work.
I would like to note I am still building my truck and have not wheeled it yet. The "driveway" wheeling and flexing I have done shows they flex well and the ride is pretty good for a heavy truck. I run about 200 psi to get the truck level.
The air shocks can be made to work on a heavy truck but when working in tandem with leaves in the front you will most likely need a sway bar. Looking back I would drop the extra coin on ORIs or Coilovers.
I built one link suspension on a 5000 pound truck. Just linked the back with air shocks and leafs up front. Did not work. I did the front and the flex was really good. Ride in the dirt was ok. He took the truck to Columbia when he was transferred there. Was not happy with the unloading of the suspension. Revalving helped a little. Bypasses went on it to make it right.
Ok so lets talk coilovers. What size and spring (round about) would I be looking for? If i was going coiover it would me emouslion (or however) thats spelled. Im not looking for bypasses or anything complicated that im in over my head with tuning. like these
http://f-o-a.com/shop/index.php?mai..._id=22&zenid=e7dab9e244b55d8fdf1c36372d28a4cd
Like I said this truck will be on 44s with square shafts front and rear. There is not headlights, tail lights, dash, nothing. not a street truck by any means.
http://f-o-a.com/shop/index.php?mai..._id=22&zenid=e7dab9e244b55d8fdf1c36372d28a4cd
Like I said this truck will be on 44s with square shafts front and rear. There is not headlights, tail lights, dash, nothing. not a street truck by any means.
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I have 2.5" 18" Profenders on my truck. If I had to do it over I would not use air shocks. When I flex the truck out the rear does all the work even with the custom Alcan leaf springs in the front. This is because the rear unloads so easily. I am waiting on a sway bar to help transfer some weight to the front of the truck so the leaves can flex.
As you can see about 18" of rear wheel travel and a measured 2 inches of front flex.
It is scary when the front tries to flex over something because the cab leans over due to the rear doing all the work.
I would like to note I am still building my truck and have not wheeled it yet. The "driveway" wheeling and flexing I have done shows they flex well and the ride is pretty good for a heavy truck. I run about 200 psi to get the truck level.
The air shocks can be made to work on a heavy truck but when working in tandem with leaves in the front you will most likely need a sway bar. Looking back I would drop the extra coin on ORIs or Coilovers.
if your thinking of going coilover and selling these, let me know. Like I said I used to have 2.0s but dont really remember having these issues, but I had mine at more of angle than yours
My sway bar should be here next week and I am hoping this will cure the no front flex issue. You can tell the front springs want to flex (and do by strapping the rear down) but the rear just droops out with no resistance. If that does not work out I may look at selling and going to something different but I really don't want to have to rework shock mounts.
One of the main reasons I went air shock was the ability to tune them with just air pressure and fluid level and because no one could give me a good idea of what coil rates I should be running.
I look forward to seeing your new build. I always liked the Gangsta Banana truck.
My point was that air shocks need to be at all 4 corners. And if you are running 4 spline drive shafts, speeds will be kept low, so no additional dampening is needed.
Ive been going round and round in my head if I ever used to have issues with my king 2.0s I used to run like your having. Ive been looking at pics and vids and mine never seem to have the issue yours is having. I didnt even have flexy springs in the front. I found this video and another one to show. Check it out, unless im missing something..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruRhbzamhX8&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruRhbzamhX8&feature=youtu.be
Ive been going round and round in my head if I ever used to have issues with my king 2.0s I used to run like your having. Ive been looking at pics and vids and mine never seem to have the issue yours is having. I didnt even have flexy springs in the front. I found this video and another one to show. Check it out, unless im missing something..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruRhbzamhX8&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruRhbzamhX8&feature=youtu.be
Yeah not sure what the difference is. The only thing I can think is that my Alcan front springs are set up to support the weight of the diesel and maybe that makes them a bit stiffer before they start to flex. The front springs will flex as I start to max the rear air shocks out or I strap the rear down.
I talked to a few people with linked rears and the ones that added a sway bar to the rear said it was a different truck and much more stable with the sway bar. Prob be a few weeks before I get mine in but we shall see.
