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another drive shaft question. rear k5.

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kallep

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Location
sweden
the rear driveshaft for k5 is impossilble to find in Sweden (apperently).

so to the question.
is there any other driveshaft from another modell that has the same joint and dia as the blazer k5?


i have all the tools and machines for swapping the joint. just need a new one in the back of the driveshaft.
 
You know kallep, you need to get premium membership to see pictures. To take full advantage of this site you'll need to see pics posted and to post pics. I can't be the only one that wants to see a pic of the K5 in Sweden.
 
Did you break the driveshaft or just a U-joint? U-joints have have set sizing, if it's stock it probably has a 1310 joint that I would think you should be able to get.
 
http://www.4xshaft.com/Measure.
Call Tom Woods Driveline.
They can ship you what you need.

It will either be 1310 series, like my 1976.
Or 3R like my 86 M1009.
Unless someone has buggered with it.

Best to measure what you have.
Note inside vs outside clip.
Call Tom Woods.
 
im going to turn prem and publish some pics.


i Think someone has messed up the car. in the papper it says year 78. but i have the 350cc injektion, th700, np208c. think its a ten bolt axel.

mesure for the shaft is: pipe diameter 2.75 inch.
joint across the "ears" thats holding the cross around 1.5 inch.

i do have one driveshaft from a 76 k5 i the garage. that ons is in two parts and can be compressed. the one on my blazer is just one big pipe.

i dont Think its been highjacked. just 33" Tires on .
 
I have also had good luck with tom woods. Pics will help us out, take a pic of the important parts with a tape measure in the photo.
 
guys dont forget he is in SWEDEN halfway around the world .

if you have a 208 case then it should be a slip yoke setup and a fixed length shaft .

your other shaft being able to ext and compress it would be for a fixed yoke rear output style t-case like a 203 or 205 older design .

you would need to post pics to help us verify what you have and help get you what you need for sure .

welcom to the site and stay a bit and enjoy this place . . . i know i have .
 
sweetk30 said:
guys dont forget he is in SWEDEN halfway around the world .
Click to expand...

That's the great thing about the times we live in, halfway around the world doesn't matter any more. We all have the same internet and parts can ship anywhere.
 
20181105-154442.jpg
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can you see the pictures is in?
 
Oh No, the Metric System:yikes:

Just kidding, but nice pink tape measure. Is that a yard stick? It's hard to see on my phone.
 
Thats a 3r u joint.
Originally the caps were glued in place but yours has already been replaced with an inside clip u joint.
That end yoke is destroyed.
You need a new driveshaft.
 
looks like the yoke ear is bent on the first pic ? if so time for a new one . if the shaft yokes are fine then a pair of new joints and new slip yoke would be all thats prob needed . how is the axle yoke and bolts & straps ?
 
the only damage is the yoke ear. rest of the shaft is ok. since you have some knowledge about this kind of technic, is it possible that someone can link me the right yoke?
 
kallep said:
the only damage is the yoke ear. rest of the shaft is ok. since you have some knowledge about this kind of technic, is it possible that someone can link me the right yoke?
Click to expand...
The end yoke is pressed into the tube and welded.
In order to replace it you need to chuck the shaft in a lathe and cut the weld out.
Pull the old end yoke out.
Press the new end yoke into the tube.
Straigthen it within .010" .
Weld it back up.
And spin balance it.

If you think you can do that, call Tom Woods and have them ship you an end yoke.
 
K5wrench said:
The end yoke is pressed into the tube and welded.
In order to replace it you need to chuck the shaft in a lathe and cut the weld out.
Pull the old end yoke out.
Press the new end yoke into the tube.
Straigthen it within .010" .
Weld it back up.
And spin balance it.

If you think you can do that, call Tom Woods and have them ship you an end yoke.
Click to expand...
x2 on this info .
 
sweetk30 said:
x2 on this info .
Click to expand...
I worked at Driveline Service of San Jose for 3 years.
Building driveshafts requires special equipment.
Collets, a press, a spin balancing machine.
Let me re-phrase; building driveshafts that don't shake, requires special equipment.
In your situation; Sweden, as you say; no access to parts.
You are MUCH better off ordering a new shaft since shipping cost is already going to rival the cost of the shaft itself.

Looks like an M1009 you have?
I see CARC green paint.
I have a stock trail spare driveshaft from my M1009.
You might be able to find one closer than you think.
Do they have wrecking yards in Sweden?
 
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