Any concrete pouring knowledge I can tap in here?

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by newyorkin, Aug 25, 2002.

  1. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status Premium Member

    May 8, 2001
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    Los Estados Unitos
    I'm a glutton for punishment, yes this is the house I'm catching crap for most likely buying...

    I have to re-build the back stoop. The existing stoop was poured in 1920..
    Right now from ground up it's a 2 inch thick (visible) 4'x4' slab in a 90degree corner with a 7 inch thick 3'x3' slab on top of that, then about 3 inches to the door threshold. The stoop is in a corner, so the bottom slab is sorta shaped like an L, and against the house foundations.

    The bottom slab is cracked and deformed, and the top one is cracked on the sides, looking like there's starting to be some decay at the foundation part which I'm afraid will start pooling water, which I've heard is concrete's enemy.

    So my thoughts are to simply pour another inch of conrete on top of the bottom slab, 2 inches on top of the top slab, and 1 or two inches out on the sides of the top slab.

    My questions are:

    Is my first-thought method a bad idea?

    Is it necessary to break up and remove or just break up the old stoop first, and completely reform the entire thing?

    What kind of concrete should I use?

    Should I rent a mixer, mix it in a wheelbarrow, or call a cement truck?

    A mixer truck might not be a bad idea, but then I'll have a lot of prep work, because with that volume, I'm going to also add a 6 inch-out extension to the foundation on the side of the house and the garage, patch side of the front stoop (decayed pretty bad), possibly re-pour the entire front walk to the street, and re-pour a new 20 sq-ft patio in the back next to the stoop in question. That stuff's originally intended over the next few years, but if doing the back stoop (which needs more immediate attention as it's our main entrance and exit) is best done with cement from a truck and not a couple bags in a wheelbarrow, I'd rather pay that massive price at once, than higher prices spread out...

    Also, anyone know what's supposed to support a gravel walk?? Putting it on dirt doesn't seem right to me, and I can't find an resources on the web about a gravel walk (plenty about the $5 a piece paving stones, though...).
  2. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

    Sep 8, 2001
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    You should be able to top coat the concrete with some succes if you use fibre strand mix. It is very hard, durable and does not need any reinforcing because it is built in (fibre strands) Chip up the surface real good and get it wet before you pour over it. Make sure there is not any dust left on the base you are top coating.

  3. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

    Feb 17, 2000
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    Cochrane, Alberta, Canada
    By gravel walk I'm assuming you mean like a gravel path/walkway in your back yard? To build a gravel path properly, you have to remove some of the organic topsoil first. Generally 4-6" will work. Run pressure-treated 2x6(or2x8 depending on how far down you dug) along the outsides of the shallow trench, making sure they stick up above final grade by 1" or so. Spend the money and buy some quality landscaping fabric to prevent weeds from coming through the gravel. Lay the fabric down and refill the shallow trench with 3/4 crush gravel. Some people prefer a washed rock or pea gravel layer on top of the 3/4 crush, but washed stuff is expensive and you can do the same thing with a garden hose in one hand and a beer in the other.

    Sorry I can't help you with the concrete, brother.
  4. EDdaTREE

    EDdaTREE 1/2 ton status

    Feb 18, 2000
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    Austintown, OHIO
    I usually leave a little room in the 55 gallon drum after pouring the concrete over the body...makes it MUCH easier to get the lid back on. If at all possible do this ON THE BOAT. Your back will thank you! All ya gotta do is toss it over in the deep part of the lake. (Oops...did I say that out loud?)

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